Troubles after changing 12v Battery

is it possible you drained the battery by leaving a light on or not driving the car for awhile?

C1241 is low battery voltage.

B1421 is inconsequential.

B1801 seems to be the clock spring or air bag related.

if it were me, i would buy a good charger (they are around $70.) and always worth having, and try charging it up, and then monitoring it, before spending $200. on a new one. perhaps you have a a drain on the battery.

 

Just Google it. First one looks to be indicating low voltage:

http://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0Toyota%20RAV4%20Repair%20Manual/Brake%20Control/Vehicle%20Stability%20Control%20System/0370020.pdf

 

Simple solution, return the dead optima for a new one that's not dead....or get a refund and buy a Toyota battery.

After installing your new battery, all your troubles should go away

 

1. You could try charging the existing battery to see if it holds a charge, and if not, then return it for a warranty replacement.
2. To answer your question, you need to use a voltmeter to measure voltage across the 12V battery when the Prius is READY. If the voltage reading is ~13.8V then there is nothing wrong with the DC/DC converter which provides power to the 12V bus and charges the battery. (There is no alternator.)

 

all the best!

 

Why expect a warranty claim to be a fight?

If the battery doesn't hold a charge and it is within the warranty period it should be replaced without a fight. When my Toyota battery crapped out within 6 weeks the Service Writer started with the "out of warranty story". His tuned changed when I told him I bought the battery there less than two months ago.

Fights tend to happen when parts are returned that aren't defective or the buyer expects something beyond the remedy specified in the warranty.

 

Do yourself a favor and get a good 12V, AGM compatible, battery charger. If you had this useful tool, you would have been able to charge the battery in question, and immediately determine if it is bad or not. The automatic charger would charge it and turn off, or indicate that it could not charge the battery (defective). If the charge was successful, and the battery just won't hold the charge, its defective, assuming no excessive current draw when the car is OFF.

Consider getting one of these two chargers:

 

OP says he wants a refund, not a replacement battery - since he probably doesn't need an extra battery gathering dust on his garage floor. That will be a fight.

Absolutely.

 

To go with the smart charger, a digital multimeter. Any home owner, any car owner, anyone who uses ANY kind of batteries, should have one. Hell, they should be issued at birth.