EGR & Intake Manifold Clean Results

I did get both. I can explain later as I am tied up right now.

 

The video is uploading right now.

Edit: its up

 

The video is up by the way.

 

How much coolant did you lose by clamping the hoses?

 

I would say around 2 cups? I think the coolant in the cooler will drip out regardless since it's in there, just have something to catch the coolant or soak it up.

 

Good video. What was the total time it took you for the job?

It is hard to get good shots on the back side of the work.

Looks like you had fun laying on the block and fender for access though

 

2-3 hours or so, yeah nick was laying all over the place on the engine haha. The back end was hard to film since it's a tight spot and only a GoPro can fit in there.

 

I tried to film it twice and was unsuccessful .

Good to know the pros have the same issue and I wasn't missing something.

 

Do you need to do anything special regarding the lost coolant, are there air pockets? Or do you just top up a little, that's all?

Thanks again btw, good video. The realtime split screen technique is very useful. As it was in the brake fluid video.

 

Nope, just top coolant off.

 

Yeah, not a lot of a space. Wish I had a gimbal or something I can get close to the parts.

 

I'm still waiting for the -results- as promised by the title of this thread. i.e. engine runs smoother, better mileage, bolts left on the road as you drive.

 

I look at it this way: if some system is critical to proper running of the engine, and when the car's new it's passages are all clear and clean, and then 100k+ miles on those same passages are seriously clogged, nearly impassible: that can't be good.

I'm thinking to wait till the 10 year mark (Fall, 2020, for EGR intake manifold cleaning, and PCV valve replacement. I'll take off that plate the PCV valve screws into too, see what's cooking behind there. Seems like a built-in catch can of sorts.

It's the time I'm supposed to do the coolant, and almost time for the plugs, according to the schedule, so opportune, since the coolant will be drained anyways, and the wipers/motors/cowl off.

 

I maybe should have followed my own advice, waited to the 10 year mark. Anyway, my ratcheting 12/14 mm wrench arrived today, the Torx socket set had arrived Tuesday, so I dove in.

Partial coolant drain: I drained 2 liters at the radiator drain, using tubing and a roughly calibrated container. While it was trickling out I cracked the bleed screw (only available on 2010~2011?) at the top, and after a few turns I started hearing a whistling air intake, and the coolant drain sped up some.





When I subsequently pulled off hoses at the EGR none of them spilled any fluid, the level had dropped below the EGR. I'm not sure how much you need to drain, but I do know 2 liters is more than enough. When I finally pulled off the EGR, a small amount came out of one tube as I tilted it, and I clued in: it must have been trapped at the lower back corner of the cooler, as it sits on an angle. I poured the rest into my coolant container.

At reassembly, I plan to push a tube onto the spigot at the bleed screw at top, connect a funnel and pour the coolant back in.

I prefer baths to showers: Once I had everything disassembled, I started spraying brake cleaner, brushing. Then started thinking maybe I could be using the cleaner more efficiently.

I'd made some wooden bungs from 1" hardwood dowel, thinking I might need to plug the coolant hoses. That proved to be unecessary, so after a bit of experimenting, I covered one of the bungs with an old balloon, and gently tapped it into the exhaust end. Then I poured all the fluid that'd accumulated so far into a beaker, and poured it into the cooler. It's working fine, not leaking, I'm going to let it sit overnight.

I also prep'd a length of slim wire (used CATV cable, with everything stripped off, and about an inch at the end with the insulation left on, for a handle, or to grip with a drill chuck. I'll try that tomorrow, with the standing fluid still in there.



As alluded to above, 71K kms was a bit early: I'll post a few pics. The build-up was apparent, but quite light still.



Question regarding the black contraption on back of the valve: Is it worthwhile undoing the screws holding that on, will it help with cleaning. Or is a big spring going to sproing out, never to be found again? The screws seem pretty tenacious; I don't want to risk stripping the heads if it serves no purpose. Any ideas?

 

Sounds like you were busy today.

The black cap on the egr valve is the housing that holds the spring loaded plunger valve in place. If you attempt to remove it (I did so I could actuate the egr and clean the seat) use an impact screwdriver to avoid stripping the heads of the screws. They are on there good.

Another option instead of plugging the end would be to reinstall the egr valve (after cleaning), then invert the assembly and cap the open end after solvent addition. Hold it on a vice or upright and it works well

Good data point for future members.

 

I have an old-fashioned impact screwdriver, the kind you just hold firmly on the screw head and tap with a hammer. That might work. I'll tread cautiously.

 

That's what I have. It works well.

 

Thanks! Will use with a vice, go cautiously.

The toughest part for me is figuring out just what direction it's rotating. Better not end up tightening it, lol.