EGR & Intake Manifold Clean Results

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Rebound, Jun 25, 2017.

  1. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    I did get both;). I can explain later as I am tied up right now:(.
     
  2. NutzAboutBolts

    NutzAboutBolts Senior Member

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    The video is uploading right now. :)

    Edit: its up
     
    #42 NutzAboutBolts, Jul 11, 2017
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2017
  3. NutzAboutBolts

    NutzAboutBolts Senior Member

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    The video is up by the way. (y)
     
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  4. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    How much coolant did you lose by clamping the hoses?
     
  5. NutzAboutBolts

    NutzAboutBolts Senior Member

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    I would say around 2 cups? I think the coolant in the cooler will drip out regardless since it's in there, just have something to catch the coolant or soak it up.
     
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  6. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Good video;). What was the total time it took you for the job?

    It is hard to get good shots on the back side of the work:(.

    Looks like you had fun laying on the block and fender for access though(y)
     
  7. NutzAboutBolts

    NutzAboutBolts Senior Member

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    2-3 hours or so, yeah nick was laying all over the place on the engine haha. The back end was hard to film since it's a tight spot and only a GoPro can fit in there.
     
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  8. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    I tried to film it twice and was unsuccessful :(.

    Good to know the pros have the same issue and I wasn't missing something.
     
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  9. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sand Pounder

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    Do you need to do anything special regarding the lost coolant, are there air pockets? Or do you just top up a little, that's all?

    Thanks again btw, good video. The realtime split screen technique is very useful. As it was in the brake fluid video. (y)
     
    #49 Mendel Leisk, Jul 11, 2017
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2017
  10. NutzAboutBolts

    NutzAboutBolts Senior Member

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    Nope, just top coolant off.
     
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  11. NutzAboutBolts

    NutzAboutBolts Senior Member

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    Yeah, not a lot of a space. Wish I had a gimbal or something I can get close to the parts.
     
  12. Rebound

    Rebound Senior Member

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    Mendel, it's not a fun job. Intake manifold is no big deal, but that EGR is a bear.
    It really helps to have someone to do the work with, so when you get stuck, he'll try something. Or when you're worn from getting the bolt at the back of the EGR, he'll work on the hoses. I think the EGR is intended to be removed with the engine out of the car. Or maybe Japanese mechanics have way smaller hands.
     
  13. David Beale

    David Beale Senior Member

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    I'm still waiting for the -results- as promised by the title of this thread. i.e. engine runs smoother, better mileage, bolts left on the road as you drive. ;)
     
  14. Rebound

    Rebound Senior Member

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    David, in my case, it was maintenance and not repair. The results of maintenance are intended that your car continues to operate properly.

    Let's look at why this is done: Several owners have reported rough idling, oil burning, and/or engine failure around 140,000 to 160,000 miles. Investigations have shown us several things: That the PCV feeds oil into the intake (this is fact in 100% of Gen iii) and the EGR system builds up with soot and eventually clogs.

    The PCV (crankcase-to-intake manifold vent) and EGR (exhaust-to-intake manifold vent) can both cause clogging of the intake manifold, which will begin as unequal air flow in the cylinders. Eventually, what we've seen is that the piston rings begin to fail and even more soot begins to clog the EGR and intake. While cleaning the EGR and intake help, if the rings are leaking then it's too late and the damage has begun.

    So this is why I've done all of this at 116,000 miles. And what's still left is for me to is talk the oil catch can, which should keep oil from the PCV from entering and clogging my engine intake.

    So the results were reported: There were considerable deposits in the intake manifold and noticeable deposits in my EGR cooler. I think the EGR could have gone another 20,000 or 25,000 without the cleanout, but the intake manifold, though not clogged, clearly had quite a lot of gunk. So cleaning the 100,000 miles of gunk should make reaching 200,000 miles more feasible. And the oil catch can should help even more.

    I hope the explanation makes sense. We'll take another stab of explanation if you want.
     
  15. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sand Pounder

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    I look at it this way: if some system is critical to proper running of the engine, and when the car's new it's passages are all clear and clean, and then 100k+ miles on those same passages are seriously clogged, nearly impassible: that can't be good.

    I'm thinking to wait till the 10 year mark (Fall, 2020, for EGR intake manifold cleaning, and PCV valve replacement. I'll take off that plate the PCV valve screws into too, see what's cooking behind there. Seems like a built-in catch can of sorts.

    It's the time I'm supposed to do the coolant, and almost time for the plugs, according to the schedule, so opportune, since the coolant will be drained anyways, and the wipers/motors/cowl off.

    upload_2017-7-12_13-45-11.png
     
    #55 Mendel Leisk, Jul 12, 2017
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2017
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  16. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sand Pounder

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    I maybe should have followed my own advice, waited to the 10 year mark. Anyway, my ratcheting 12/14 mm wrench arrived today, the Torx socket set had arrived Tuesday, so I dove in.

    Partial coolant drain: I drained 2 liters at the radiator drain, using tubing and a roughly calibrated container. While it was trickling out I cracked the bleed screw (only available on 2010~2011?) at the top, and after a few turns I started hearing a whistling air intake, and the coolant drain sped up some.

    IMG_7623.JPG IMG_7624.JPG
    IMG_7639.JPG


    When I subsequently pulled off hoses at the EGR none of them spilled any fluid, the level had dropped below the EGR. I'm not sure how much you need to drain, but I do know 2 liters is more than enough. When I finally pulled off the EGR, a small amount came out of one tube as I tilted it, and I clued in: it must have been trapped at the lower back corner of the cooler, as it sits on an angle. I poured the rest into my coolant container.

    At reassembly, I plan to push a tube onto the spigot at the bleed screw at top, connect a funnel and pour the coolant back in.

    I prefer baths to showers: Once I had everything disassembled, I started spraying brake cleaner, brushing. Then started thinking maybe I could be using the cleaner more efficiently.

    I'd made some wooden bungs from 1" hardwood dowel, thinking I might need to plug the coolant hoses. That proved to be unecessary, so after a bit of experimenting, I covered one of the bungs with an old balloon, and gently tapped it into the exhaust end. Then I poured all the fluid that'd accumulated so far into a beaker, and poured it into the cooler. It's working fine, not leaking, I'm going to let it sit overnight.

    I also prep'd a length of slim wire (used CATV cable, with everything stripped off, and about an inch at the end with the insulation left on, for a handle, or to grip with a drill chuck. I'll try that tomorrow, with the standing fluid still in there.

    IMG_7636.JPG IMG_7637.JPG IMG_7640.JPG

    As alluded to above, 71K kms was a bit early: I'll post a few pics. The build-up was apparent, but quite light still.

    IMG_7625.JPG IMG_7626.JPG IMG_7629.JPG IMG_7634.JPG

    Question regarding the black contraption on back of the valve:
    Is it worthwhile undoing the screws holding that on, will it help with cleaning. Or is a big spring going to sproing out, never to be found again? The screws seem pretty tenacious; I don't want to risk stripping the heads if it serves no purpose. Any ideas?
     
    #56 Mendel Leisk, Sep 21, 2017
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2017
  17. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Sounds like you were busy today:).

    The black cap on the egr valve is the housing that holds the spring loaded plunger valve in place. If you attempt to remove it (I did so I could actuate the egr and clean the seat;)) use an impact screwdriver to avoid stripping the heads of the screws. They are on there good:(.

    Another option instead of plugging the end would be to reinstall the egr valve (after cleaning), then invert the assembly and cap the open end after solvent addition. Hold it on a vice or upright and it works well

    Good data point for future members(y).
     
    #57 Raytheeagle, Sep 21, 2017
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2017
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  18. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sand Pounder

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    I have an old-fashioned impact screwdriver, the kind you just hold firmly on the screw head and tap with a hammer. That might work. I'll tread cautiously.
     
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  19. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    That's what I have;). It works well(y).
     
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  20. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sand Pounder

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    Thanks! Will use with a vice, go cautiously.

    The toughest part for me is figuring out just what direction it's rotating. Better not end up tightening it, lol.
     
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