My P0A080 fault code and battery rebuild

Why it is must to do so ?
and I am in JORDAN - AMMAN how i can get it ??
maybe i can help you to sell it here to !!

 

Thanks for the kind words . We regularly ship our products all over the world, they are universal AC compatible and so will work in all countries. We can certainly ship to you as well. If you have a retail shop and would like to install our systems, we have a wholesale program as well. You can read more info here:
https://hybridautomotive.com/pro

 

how we can manage it ?

Do you have a Whattsapp Number ?

 

i have to try and remember this thread when people ask about rebuilding options, it never comes up in a search. it is concise and to the point.

 

How did you connect the charger to the battery pack?
Series or parallel configuration?
Was it any of the configurations that you used throughout your project, since you said you've never tried the cycles using hobby chargers.

Thanks

 

How did you load test it?

I did the same thing you are describing here, yet I got no differences in the module voltage drops (within 0.1 to 0.3 volts of each other at the most) on any of the modules, even after running the headlight on them for a uniform fixed amount of time. There was no obvious difference, at least not one detectable without special diagnostic gear?...

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Well then, there goes the module replacement idea, since all of them test fine according to the load tests. Fault must be somewhere else in the battery system then. Time for a whole new battery.

 

The HV ECU will tell you exactly what module pair (which of 14 pairs) the fault was logged in. No need to guess or load step. That's the one the car has a problem with. What are your DTC's?

 

A one or two minute load test is not the ideal way to locate weak modules. Weak modules have low capacity. They check out fine for voltage drop for one or two minutes of testing compared to their stronger neighbors. You really need to run capacity checks to weed out the weak(er) modules and to do that you need to drain the module to 6.5V for example and log the time it takes to go from fully charged to 6.5V. This can vary between 18 minutes for a weak module and 45 minutes for a strong one with a 55 watt halogen bulb with the high and low beam filaments connected. I wish I had taken videos of this when I did my pack repair. You can see the headlight getting dimmer as the voltage decreases, particularly once the voltage drops to 7V and below - the halogen bulb is noticeably dimmer at that voltage.

When I did my capacity tests, I saw a considerable amount of variation among the 28 modules I tested. I did this 18 months ago and cannot remember exact values but do recall that the weakest module had 2.8 amp hours capacity (by my crude calculation) and the strongest had 6.4 amp hours. Deep discharging can restore some of the capacity in weaker modules but that requires oodles of time with RC chargers and willingness to risk killing a module or three due to cell reversal. Pack level chargers and intelligent dischargers permit quick recovery of capacity but as fotomoto pointed out modules will continue to die even when this type of equipment is used "religiously" - LOL. The main cause of these deaths is self discharge which to my knowledge cannot be improved with rejuventation techniques.

 

18 to 45 minutes per module is too long, and much longer than the OP described. Guess that's why you need special equipment and why I can't do it with my bad back and limited time.

As far as the HV ECU eventually telling me which modules are bad, that's not what the service tech told me. He said that on my car (Gen II) that info isn't reported by the computer. I've gone round and round with the guys there at the dealership on this point but they are sticking to their story. Perhaps I can't find the right questions to either pry or trick the truth out of them?....

He did say this - sometimes the faults will not occur until the battery becomes heated by the action of driving the car and working out the hybrid system.

So it looks like buying a new batt and flushing the whole problem once and for all.

 

Your dealership is either crooked or incompetent. All the information is stored in the ECU until cleared. The Gen2 will tell you exactly what the problem is. The DTC will decode to something like "Battery Block 10 weak" and that narrows it down to 1 of 2 modules out of the 28 originals. If the car through a code, the information is there. The car may throw more codes the hotter the pack is, but that is just more symptoms of what you already know, a bad battery pack.