Just changed brakes, now they are sticking. HELP!!!!

The latest software is required for the latest model year Toyota/Lexus/Scion/Daihatsu.

I sincerely doubt you can upgrade the firmware. Why? You are purchasing a $20/$35 imitation copy of a $400, Toyota licensed and approved OBD2 cable, called Mongoose Pro, made by Drew Technologies. This company supports their products, on behalf of the auto manufactures they have a licensing agreements with: Chrysler, GM, Ford, Honda, Jaguar, Land Rover, Nissan, Audi, VW. I just can't picture the counterfeiters in China, providing that same level of support.
MongoosePro Toyota 2

I don't know what version my imitation cable is when I purchased it a few years back. As far as I know, I am able to do everything, and it works fine with Techstream ver 8.0.

Maybe the latest Techstream software truly requires the latest imitation cable? This will be your call.

Assuming you are going to recheck and bleed the brake system, you might want to first clean/replace the shoes, adjust the shoes, and relube the rear brake shoe contact points on the backing plate. It is next to impossible to remove the rear brake shoe tensioner spring w/o accidently causing the rear brake cylinder piston to move, which will require the rear lines to be bleed.

 

I'm not familiar with second gen Prius rear drum brakes, so please, if I'm off-base, have mercy. That said:

It's very easy to shift drum brake shoes a bit left/right, say when the drums off for lube of the shoe contact points with the backing plate. When doing this lube on various Honda drum brakes, I would:

1. Remove the tensioner clips, so the shoes can be lifted slightly away from the backing plate.
2. Sneak a little grease in, at the (three) bearing points, shoe to backing plate.
3. Reinstall the tensioner clips, and shift the shoes slightly left/right, to distribute the grease.

I don't see how this movement compromise the brakes, necessitate subsequent brake bleeding. The piston is shifting withing the cylinder yes, but no air is being pulled in, as far as I know.

 

My experience was a the exact opposite. The slight movement of the shoes, likely got translated into the brake shoe piston, which was probably enough to upset the brake system and the computers.

I thought all was well. Put the car back on the ground and went for a test drive, only to have to raise the car and remove the wheels, due to DTCs having been triggered from this.

Maybe the Gen2 is very sensitive to any movement the system itself does not make?

 

Could it have been excess brake pedal travel detected? That's one thing I've heard can trigger a warning. My drill with the (3rd gen) Prius is always to disconnect neg 12 volt cable first, and when everything is put back, do multiple pushes of the brake pedal, take up any slack, before reconnecting 12 volt. But again, this is third gen, all disc brakes.

 

Maybe.

I was just swearing up a storm b/c I had just lowered the car. Now I had to relift the car, remove the wheels, and bleed. But, all was well after the bleed.

 

I am unable to see it for some reason.

Have you tried the test suggested in post #2? It might point in the direction of what is going on.

-Chap

 

Sorry, yes, I meant post.

Perplexing screenshot. Is that after running the Health Check?

-Chap

 

That would be my guess. It ought to Just Work....

-Chap

 

Right, I don't think it indicates any problem with the comm networks in the car, just a problem with the VCI.

Keep in mind that the original Mini VCI was already a cheap version of other J2534 dongles, and if you bought it at all recently, it isn't even a real Mini VCI, it's one of the super cheap clones that drove XHorse (original Mini VCI maker) right out of the business.

So it's unfortunate if the one you got doesn't work, but not at all unheard-of....

-Chap

 

Not for sure. The Mini VCI that I ended up with has issues of its own (though not the same issues as yours). I've been thinking to try out a VxDiag and/or a Tactrix OpenPort (both for more money) and compare, but never gotten around to it yet.

-Chap

 

It's maybe too easy to stand on the side criticizing, but it feels like this quest to get Techstream running is supplanting the brake problem. OTOH, TS is maybe the best (or only?) way to proceed?

 

Thanks for the refocus ... I was thinking up in post #2 that the information most necessary to be gathered could be gathered by wrenching open one or both front caliper bleed screws and observing what happens ....

It's not necessary, by the way, to remove the wheels for access to those bleeders; they're easy to reach.

I guess the digression into Techstream arcana began in the question of whether that test might set warnings that Techstream would be required to clear.

-Chap

 

Shims at the back of pads, no. They are there just to make brakes quieter.

Shims at the ends of pad, maybe.
-If you just left the old shims there pads can be tight between them. If there tight enough they won’t return. But you should notice this when installing the pads.
-If you left those shims out pads are super lose and there’s no smooth surface for them to slide along which could cause them not to return. But I don’t think you could just but it back together without those and not think why it’s so lose.