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2001 Prius Help - code p3000

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by dlfoster, Dec 15, 2017.

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  1. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    The date codes can be found on the top of the module.

    Here’s a thread that might help you decipher the date codes:

    P3009 battery Frankenstein project

    If you can’t balance a module or the pack with an older hybrid, you’ll be in for some challenges going forward.

    If willing to continue down the whack-a-mole path, I would purchase the Hybrid Automotive equipment (Prolong setup) so you can charge the pack at once and then insert modules as they fail. I would also invest in a multimeter to allow for checking mA and voltage readings to see the health of the module.

    Good luck(y).
     
  2. dlfoster

    dlfoster Junior Member

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    Thanks for the help Ray. maybe one day I won't be broke and can just buy a new pack altogether,haha. Until then I'll keep trying to fix this one.
     
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  3. Prodigyplace

    Prodigyplace Senior Member

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    Perhaps @2k1Toaster can quote you a kit of new modules. I know he sells Gen 2 & 3 kits for $1600, assuming you are in the US.
     
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  4. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Nothing wrong with the wack-a-mole approach, as long as you are good with these intermittent times of repair that are not planned:(.

    If short on cash (we’ve all been there), what I found important was to have the right tools to make things last;).

    In your case, buying a new pack is not an option, so getting the basics to make your soon to be constant repairs effective will be:). At minimum when making a pack repair, I would:

    • Understand how old the module is that I would be putting in
    • Understand where this module is in relation to the other modules in the pack in terms of resistance (if outside of the other modules, you’ll be doing this repair very soon thereafter)
    • Load test the module to go in
    • Cycle the new pack so they are all on equal ground
    • Hope you don’t have to do this repair for a good period of time
    Now that Christmas is here, one thing as a savy guy I would do knowing I have some repairs on the horizon would be to ask for cold hard cash so I could invest it in my vehicle diagnostics or equipment like the Prolong setup;). Or find some one in your geographic area that may already have the Prolong charger and Intelligent Discharger who might be willing to share:).

    I have the Prolong setup for our 2010 with 170 k miles on it and I share this equipment with another member here who has a Gen2 with about the same amount of miles. Our investment was halved due to this but we each get the benefit of the equipment :).

    Just a thought around the holidays(y).
     
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  5. Brian in Tucson

    Brian in Tucson Active Member

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    It would be nice if he could borrow a grid charger and discharger. My Prolong is in the shop for warranty service, and I think probably a lot of shipping wouldn't be optimum for it's longevity. Anyone who's close could use mine, just buy and install the harness.

    Or look for other Gen 1 owners and sell shares. Doing it right has a price point over $700.
     
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  6. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    I’m not sure on the statistics, but the Gen1 or classic Prolong setup will be a harder to come by commodity rather than the Gen2 or Gen3 that share the same platform from Hybrid Automotive :(.

    Maybe @jeff652 could share how many Gen1 setups there are out and about;).

    My curious mind would like to know(y).
     
  7. dabard051

    dabard051 Tinkerer-in-Charge

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    <bump> question, did the OP (original poster) ever completely solve the problem?
    I'm asking because after I let my '03 Prius sit for a couple weeks (and it rained a LOT), I now have a P3000 code that shows up, and my Techstream says all the battery cells are pretty close to each other.
    Next steps: get the second-level INF codes (Techstream 12.20) from freeze frames, then remove & inspect the HV battery module.

    <edit> So the full fault code is P3000-123, which is rather unhelpful. I decided that since there were no driveability issues, I would take it for a longer spin (to freshen up the batteries) and lo and behold, after half-a-dozen clear-the fault exercised with my OBDII scanner, the fault no longer occurred.

    What I hypothesize: It's been VERY wet by me recently, so I can imagine that while the car sat, some water and dirt combined along with the ever-present HV in the battery box to form some conductive paths. Hence the leakage and HV fault. The drive (while ity was warm and relatively dry) may have dried out the battery volume (and the HV ECU) enough to frustrate the conductive paths (which I suspect are in the vicinity of the famous orange HV connector with 32 pins from batteries to the HV ECU).

    Next step (when it stops raining, long enough) is to pull the HV battery and check for suspicious places for electrons to migrate from their proper paths.
     
    #27 dabard051, Jul 13, 2021
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2021