Transmission fluid leaking after fluid was replaced

congrats, that's a tough job!

 

When I did this on a Gen2, we used a pair of channel locks and that seemed to had it well enough to snug it down.

But it is a tight area to work.

Glad you found the leak culprit.

 

A little late, but this might help. There's an SST (Special Service Tool) which looks to be something you could cobble, basically a pair of pins to restrain it from rotating. Or maybe there something like that commercially available. Or channel locks.

 

Once you have installed the belt just tighten the belt a bit too tight and then you can use a wrench to tighten the bolts. If you put the wrench so that it goes over the center of pulley it will reduce the force that’s turning the pulley. In reality that’s very fast and easy.

 

^ That's actually brilliant.

As you say, doesn't completely prevent the tendency to rotate, but would really reduce it.

 

1. I hope you installed a new serpentine drive belt. A new belt, properly tensioned, should exert sufficient friction to hold the coolant pump pulley stationary, as the pulley bolts only need to be tightened to 11 ft.-lb.
2. Are you aware of the need to run the coolant heat recovery system pump, while working on getting air out of the engine coolant loop?
3. If you hear air bubbling in the cabin heater core when you have the cabin heater turned on, that is evidence that you have air in the system and you need to take action to resolve that issue.

 

On the topic of tightening the bolts, be sure to properly tighten the idler pulley (tensioner) and adjusting bolts.

My adjusting bolt had been finger tightened, which held for 500 miles before loosening enough to toss the belt onto the splash shield.

 

Drive Belt info: