Car won't shut off.

For about a year now my combo meter has been going on and off. For a long time it stopped doing it but yesterday it finally died. No series of button pushes will shut the car off. I ended up pulling out the main 12 volt lead off the 12 volt battery to kill it.

When it started doing it last year I bought a rebuilt meter off eBay so I had one in stock. They programmed my mileage into the module. I can fix the board but thought it would be easier and quicker to install the new board while the car was all torn apart.

Its not a real bad job found out that most of the front part of the dash had already been removed and re-installed before when Best Buy installed a new pioneer car stereo 2 years ago. You have to pull out the MFD apparently to get to the radio which requires the whole front of the dash to come out.

I used a real good You Tube of the dash disassembly as a guide. And as the you tube showed the hardest part was taking off the screw covers on the screws that hold the upper glove box. I found using a dental pick worked really good. Long steel stem with very small right angle at the end to grab the lip of the cover and pull it off.

Scariest thing for me is unplugging and plugging the passenger side air bag connector. But 12 volt had been unplugged for quite a while so no issue.

Took me about 3 hours R & R. If you know what your doing you could probably do it all in half that.

 

Thank but I already had the back hatch all opened up and its faster to just unclick and pull out the main 12 lead.

 

No that's not how you remove smd caps. Just get a needle nose and gently rock the cap back and forth in the other direction of the 2 leads. Basically rocking across the leads. Snaps right off. Then clean up the pads.

I see all these you tubes of tacking on an axial cap across an existing smd cap. That may work for a while but the existing smd cap your tacking onto thats still on the board has bad esr and will continue to have worse esr which means you have a resistor across your cap with changing value. Needless to say you will back in there again eventually to do it right.

 

yes when I bought the replacement board it didn't fail till a year later so yes I now have less mileage on the odometer about 9,000 miles less. new board shows 110,000 miles.

And there's multiple caps on my old board that show esr. The replacement board I got had 4 caps replaced.

 

Not sure what your talking about. Its not a noise on the 12 volt buss issue its an old capacitors with esr issue. There's a switch mode power supply on that board. There's already a large cap hanging off the 12 in as a decoupler.
If the 12 had excessive noise the switch mode would not work.

 

Not sure what your talking about. This board lasted 11 years in a car.

 

No you didn't you said to take the cap off:

 

I’m sure there’s some trash riding on the 12 volts but most circuits should be immune to it if properly decoupled. As far as our discussion on that trash affecting the combo meter I disagree. And it’s sure not hurting any other circuit in the car because we would be seeing all kinds of wonky ecu issues and we do not. This car is an amazing piece of engineering the design of the inverter is world class for its day.

The combo is properly decoupled it’s a very well designed circuit and the caps that are failing are failing from old age.
It’s survived 11+ years in my car in a very harsh environment. If you had to filter the 12 volts to get your Bluetooth device to work please tell me the make and model of that Bluetooth device because I find it very hard to believe you have to hang a capacitor across the b+ to make it work properly.