Engine seized? 118k miles

Watch @Ragingfit 's engine swap videos here. He's putting a 4th gen engine in a Prius v, but it's pretty much the same:

Swapping in a Gen 4 Prius' 2ZR Engine into the Prius v | PriusChat

 

Realistically speaking, I had the motor out my first time in just a couple of hours. Just make sure to remove the water pump. You cannot clear the subframe with the water pump installed.

 

That is really great that John weberauto@youtube also replies to comments and helps out.

 

There's a few removal steps in @Ragingfit 's videos that are maybe not necessary. He spends a lot of time fighting with the EGR circuit removal, for example, and I think you could pull the engine with that still on. Ditto for the exhaust manifold: I think that could remain bolted to the engine, just disconnected at the exhaust end.

 

I took the exhaust manifold off mine due to close proximity to the windshield. It is cold outside and it wouldn’t take much to crack the windshield.

 

He told me in an email he was sure the short blocks are the same. He’s the SME in the topic so I took him at his word on my swap.

 

I can tell you, the curved lower hose pipe, between the harnesses entering the inverter, there is a 12mm bolt. It secured the pipe to the transaxle. That will allow the hose to come off a lot easier.

 

I'm purely an armchair mechanic here, have never done it, but if you can just disconnect the exhaust manifold from the exhaust flange, I believe you can pull the engine. Also avoids the need to remove the EGR, prior to engine removal.

@cnc97 has cautioned: it's really close to the windshield, maybe push some pipe insulation tubing over the lower edge of the windshield, and just take it real slow.

Too, as soon as you start lifting, I think you can also bring it forward a bit?

 

If I remember correctly there were three bolts on the heat shield, five bolts on the manifold to block, four on the bracket (two in manifold and two in block) and the two at the converter inlet. Spray lube on the two hangers and slide them off so the exhaust will drop off the flange. Make sure you have a nut or two on the manifold-to-block or the manifold will hit you in the face. Ask me how I know. LoL

 

Any update? Getting really close to to cause and I'm super curious.

 

Hopefully you find something that can be easily repaired. Best of luck.

 

All you can really do is spray rust penatrent on the nuts and bolts and let it soak, several times.
Hopefully that will break the rust free. Maybe apply a torch to it and the heat will break them free.
But it will take time.

But at least you ended the day with a fix on the jeep!