Speaker Wiring

After a good look around under the left outboard kick panel since someone's been in there already. Probably...and it's a little easier than pulling the A/B pillar, lower outboard and dash speaker covers first. There are good videos for all though.

 

Not all installers are created equal...and most depend on referrals. If your installer is a legitimate Business, go back to explain why you are there, show them the print and what you found. They should be more than willing to correct their mistake...but remember to be nice. Everyone makes mistakes.

 

Use the prints, plug and pin numbers to chase the wires...maybe even pull the door panel to isolate the speaker (disconnect) and use your meter. I'd still at least talk to them first. Like I said, most DEPEND on referrals for their business. Wish ya luck and let us know how it turns out.

 

Unlikely a fried speaker. You won't wreck one by hooking it up with opposite polarity. Far from it. It'll just have crummy sound and weird dead spots of almost no sound at all in the car.

I suggest following the line into the door, get the card off and see what they've hooked it up to on that end. They've done one end of this wire with poor termination. They might have been consistent...

 

Important...First verify this is the right connector! There are more than 1 each wires that are pink or violet in this car. Although they may have pulled the plug number label off the cut end, you can look to see if there's a label behind the J-side...where it plugs into. I'm only guessing this is connector/block LI1 (if you are on the right one) because I believe connector/block OL2 is the door feed through. Then, or if not labeled, disconnect the speaker wires which should be identified with solid pink and violet insulation at that end (or pink + and violet -)..."per the print". Check continuity from there to each wire you exposed behind the kick panel going to the door. The lower speaker on page 2 of the print is the door speaker by the way. You identify which is which using the ohms Ω setting on the meter. Touch both meter leads together before so you know what continuity looks like on yours. Give us a yell after that.

 

If polarity is reversed speaker will be out of phase; no imaging nor staging.

 

The speaker end wasn't messed with, but you need to isolate (disconnect) the wires to check them...and you don't want to shoot 9 VDC through the speaker if it's still good...because that's what the meter does when you check for resistance/ohms. Just let us know.

 

One last for now. Cap or tape those exposed car side wires separately before closing up. If this is the wrong plug, you don't need a not wire bouncing around behind the kick panel.

 

Isolate and identify the problem first. You said the squawker works so stick with page 2 for now. The door panel is easy to remove. Provided thread link will help...and there are a lot of videos if you Google...How to remove 2010 door panel. 2010-2015 are essentially the same for this.

Door Panel Removal, Front Door Speaker Removal With Pictures | PriusChat

 

Yep, that is the sort of consistency I was worried about.

Toyota rivets their speakers in, which is great in the sense that they never rattle out loose, but bad in the sense that if you have to remove the speaker for any reason, you must drill out the rivets. I just went through this, did a full speaker replacement in ours. Somebody apparently needed to remove these speakers, and chose to glue them back in. Tough to tell what it is by look, but it could be ordinary bathroom caulk.

While you've got the speaker out, root around in the bottom of the door to see if they've left the backing shanks of the old rivets or any other litter in there to rattle later.

 

If you put voltage across a speaker coil and the cone moved, then the speaker works. It may not be perfectly healthy, but it's enough to make sound when presented with a signal instead of just voltage. You probably heard a tick, thump or pop when you put the battery on, and that's normal. Therefore I suspect it's still a connection problem.

Put your meter probes on the same contacts you put the battery on- you should get around 4Ω. If you don't get anything, carefully examine these contacts and make sure you're hitting the same points. After that we have to start making sure your meter works.