Replace Rear Caliper without Trouble Code

I haven't replace the calipers on a Prius, but it's no harder than any other car.
Disconnecting the 12v battery is good. You are going to lose fluid, so just loosen the hose
before removing the caliper. Then it will be easy and fast to do and won't loose much fluid.
It would be a good time to flush the system with new clean fluid.
You could check junk yards for the parts. I'm certain someone has the parts.
If the caliper itself is okay, just the bracket, you may have to buy the whole assembly, and only
replace the bracket. Then you wouldn't have to open the system.

 

If you search the INTERNET, for junk yards, you can find them.
I purchased an EGR Cooler for $50 from a junkyard in another state.
It's your money.
I don't think pumping the pedal will work for the rear brakes, they are electric.

 

No, they are definitely hydraulic.

You don’t understand the electric brake booster. In most cars, power braking is supplied from engine vacuum. But the Prius engine can shut off at any time, so they use an electric pump instead of a vacuum pump.

 

Watch @NutzAboutBolts video on changing the brake fluid (without Techstream) on 3rd gen, it's linked in thread pinned at top of 3rd gen Maintenance forum. Play it safe and put the car in "invalid" mode for the duration of the time the brakes are open, and/or you're doing subsequent bleeding.

The car should be "On", not Ready (two pushes of Start Button without foot on brake), then do the chicken dance as described, and watch for confirmation on the dash when done, that you're in "Invalid" mode.

There are several ways you can be bumped out of invalid mode, which you want to avoid. @NutzAboutBolts lists them, and they're also mentioned in the attachement. One sneaky one is if a wheel turns, so be careful.

 

So, if I pump the pedal, the fluid will be forced out if the bleeder is open for the REAR brakes
as it is for the front?
Then there would be no reason to do them any different than non hybrid cars?
To a complete fluid flush/change, you'd have to use techstream, or something similar, so it would
activate the ABS valves to flush the fluid out of that, thing, I can't seem, to, remember, what it's called!!!!

 

There is a very noticeable difference, bleeding the fronts vs rears:

Fronts, with an assistant pushing the brake pedal, you've got to quickly open/close the bleeder, because the brake pedal will sink to the floor very quickly. They're basically traditional.

Rears, the assistant can push the brake pedal continously, it doesn't drop, and you can hold the bleeder open as long as you want. Well within reason, you don't want to run the reservoir dry. All the while you can hear a little pump whirring.

Again, watch @NutzAboutBolts video on this. The only comments I would make on the video:

1. The Repair manual says to bleed in sequence front/right, front/left, rear/left and rear/right. This is a bit at odds with the video, though not sure how much it matters.

2. In the video they use mechanical suction when bleeding, and also to get fluid out of the reservoir at the outset. I just used a syringe to baste out fluid from the reservoir, and a simple tube with bleed bolt coupler (no suction) and it worked fine.

The video is really good, shows things that are glossed over in the Repair Manual:

1. During the chicken dance, you need to depress the brake to get from Park to Neutral.

2. You really need to open/shut the bleed bolt fast, when doing the front brakes. They use split screen to show how fast the brake pedal drops: you really don't want to leave it open more than a split-second.

I used to two pints of Toyota DOT3 fluid (bottles up here say 473 cc ), and seemed to work out about right. I aimed to end up with the level the same as when I started, and with an ounce or two in reserve, just in case I wanted to fine-tune after a few days.

 

You bleed the FURTHEST brake first. It takes the longest and uses the most fluid.
The left rear would be quicker because not as much fluid. Same with rf and then lf.

I did watch his video. He said it was electric. And I believe he also said they don't bleed the SAME
as the fronts. You don't need the engine on to bleed the fronts.
Front his video, I gathered you could NOT just pump the brake pedal for the rear, like the front.
That is the info I received and also from other videos.

I use a clear hose with a check valve to bleed mine, into a clear bottle so I can see the color change.
The bottle is higher than the caliper, to keep any air bubbles from seeping back into the caliper, from gravity.

I've done hundreds of brake fluid flushes on many many different brands and models of cars and never had a problem.
If I don't have to run the car, I will just bleed the rear as usual. However, if when pressing the brake pedal, the electric
motor kicks in to propel the fluid, even when the car is off, then I won't have to do it differently, except to press and hold
the pedal(brake) for a few seconds, then release, and continue until the color of the fluid is clear/new.

 

When you follow the guided function in Techstream or Autel, it does have you bleed the LR first.

I always connect a maintainer to the 12V battery to prevent the battery from running low during the process. It is also important to not let the pump run for too long at a time; I believe 15 seconds (don't quote me on this) was the time limit.

 

Well Toyota says different, if you look at the attachment. FWIW, @NutzAboutBolts started with the rears, maybe doesn't matter.

It's a tricky distinction, but "invalid" mode is with the car "On", not "Ready". The engine won't run, but all the dash lights are on, cabin fan will run (if it's on) and so forth. Toyota recommends to have the car in invalid mode, if you're bleeding brakes without Techstream.

I don't think the pump will run continuously for the rear brakes, if you depress the brake pedal, when the car's off. Again, the Toyota drill is to have the car "On", and in Invalid Mode.

 

In actuality, I don't think it really matters which one to bleed first.
I usually do the thing that will take the longest first, so I have less to do when I get tired or
it's toward the end of the day!
I'm going to try to get around to changing the rear pads this week. The only have 180,000 miles on then,
and just under 1/2 the life. But I figured if I did replace them, I wouldn't have to do them ever again!
And then flush the fluid while the wheels are off, making it easier. The front can be turned.

 

Should I decide to use techstream, I'll do it the way the programs says. It's their car, software, they SHOULD know
the way they want it done, for whatever reason.
When "I" say, the car "off", I mean, the car is OFF. No invalid or acc or anything else.
Just "O F F"