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Bought a beat up 2005 prius, need some help w/problems

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Derek., Feb 23, 2020.

  1. Derek.

    Derek. Junior Member

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    Bought a 2005 prius 2 weeks ago and its developed some problems. First, it had a brand new 12v battery put in by the guy I bought it from. Saw it put in rght in front of me with the receipt and pulled off the plugs. Later tested it disconnected from the car at 12.82v, date code reads 12/19, and just read it again at 12.83. Found a mouse or squirrel nest in the blower box, took the dash half apart to get at it easier. While looking into how to take the dash apart on youtube, saw the capacitor fix for the speedometer, which I noticed wasn't working. Soldered on a capacitor to where they said, now that seems to work, which also fixed the car not turning off (and having to hold down the power button for a few seconds to get it to turn off). Not sure when it started but the parking mechanism doesn't work (not the foot lever, that works, the transmission one). I get the message on the dsplay screen that its function is abnormal and to park on level ground and apply the foot ebrake. When the car turns off, it seems to engage that parking lock. But anytime I slow down to a few mph, I get that warning on the screen. Sometimes, the car loses all power and if I try and speed up I hear the something under the hood racing but the car going slower and slower despite me pushing further down on the accelerator. If I come to a stop, turn the car off, then back on, it drives normal again. Seems like this only happens when I'm going at some speed, then slow down to very slow and try and speed up again but not 100% sure. I have the red triangle and pretty much every warning light on the dash on. I know it needs an ABS sensor installed (its just not there, must have went bad) and both CV shafts because the tone rings are all rusted out. I do my own work and am going to put them in but just haven't gotten to it yet. But I don't think that would cause the loss of drive power I'm seeing. Read the codes with Techstream and it says B1200 and B1271. Seems like the B1271 might be old as I fixed that. Also not sure if the b1200 is from unplugging dash connectors, I did part of the dash diisassembly up to the airbag with the 12v battery connected, then I unplugged the 12v because I was worried about the airbag. One more thing, the trunk doesn't respond to the pushbutton. There's a lot of mouse crap all inside this thing, but I don't see any evidence of wires being chewed on. I looked over the wiring around the dash for that and they didn't go under the dash too much (the air cleaner filter prevented them from coming in). But a 2nd mouse lived in the passenger cabin, but didn't seem to go in the dash area thankfully. Any ideas on how to procede? I tried a fix I saw on youtube regarding the parking lock, to run a bypass wire from the 7.5amp p con something or other fuse to the blue wire in the connector above it, that didn't help. Thanks in advance, sorry for the TLDR
    edit: bolded the 3 issues I'm having
     
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    welcome!
    no clue really, but check the inverter fluid reservoir for movement with the car ready.

    maybe pull off the inside hatch panel and check the wiring there. you could put 12v to the lock to see if it works.
     
  3. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    With the level of repairs you're heading for, the best thing you can do right now is get an older laptop and a copy of techstream with the connection cable from ebay (or where ever). You're going to need it and it will save you a lot of heartache from chasing your tail. You currently have hybrid DTCs but cant see them with your reader. Included in your problems, you most likely have a failed HV battery pack.
     
  4. JimboPalmer

    JimboPalmer Tsar of all the Rushers

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    The Parking mode is run by an electric motor. If the 12 volt system is not correct, you will get P-lock errors.

    Look for a bad 12 battery bad, chewed, or loose cables. or rarely a bad Parking motor.

    I would check voltages in the front fuse block and compare that to the battery. I would check the battery after it has been off overnight.

     
    #4 JimboPalmer, Feb 23, 2020
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2020
  5. Derek.

    Derek. Junior Member

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    As I said in the OP, I read the codes with Techstream. B1200 and B1271
     
  6. Derek.

    Derek. Junior Member

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    Battery is brand new and is reading 12.8+ volts. I ran a load test with a Snapon battery load tester and it passes with flying colors.
     
  7. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    I apologize for missing that as I read through your OP. My eyes were probably getting blurry by the time I got to the end. Sounds like you have it well under control.
     
  8. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Given that you do have Techstream, I would go ahead and look at live data and freeze frames from the transmission control ECU. That's one of the ECUs keeping the most extensive records of voltage reaching it, which could help you piece a picture together.

    It's often assumed that a voltage-related code from this ECU is about the battery, but of course this ECU isn't located there. It is under the glove box, and measures the voltage arriving there, so connectors and wiring are very much in the troubleshooting tree.

    You might also check live data from the power management ECU, even if only to confirm that you can. It might be possible that some communication issue is preventing you from retrieving codes from all of the ECUs that have codes for you. That's another sort of problem that can also have troubleshooting trees available in the manual.
     
  9. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Welcome to PriusChat!!

    It sounds like you're off to a great start.

    Though it sounds like you've already tried such, maybe this thread from @strawbrad can help with the parking problem : P Lock C2310 Fix Fixed Solved Solution | PriusChat

    Glad you have techstream up and working, though you might be missing some DTCs (codes) given the dash lights and symptoms.

    Here is the workup for DTC B1200 : https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/Repair%20Manual/04pruisr/05/21acw/cib1200.pdf

    Here is the workup for DTC B1271 : https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/Repair%20Manual/04pruisr/05/21acw/cib1271.pdf

    As @TMR-JWAP kindly mentioned above, a racing ICE and a lack of power can be indicative of a failed/failing HV battery. Best to use it very gently, if at all. Have you had a chance to clean the HV battery fan or inspect the HV battery pack?

    How many miles on that 2005? (you can check the history at https://toyota.com/owners )
     
  10. The Electric Me

    The Electric Me Go Speed Go!

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    IMO...
    With the level of repairs you're heading for, the best thing you can do right now is.....

    to consider abandoning the whole project.

    I mean if the OP want's a project? Then OK....they've got one. But this easily sounds like a project of that is almost instantly at a point where I would question the value of further investment personal and in terms of financial cash.
    Right now it's not even safe to drive.

    The OP does their own work. So if they want the project, then the project is the thing.
    But as I read the original post, I come away questioning the value of further investment.
     
  11. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    My personal pain threshold for a project is exceeded once we start talking about serious mouse infestation, poop and urine. If they get to the interior of a car to that point, I am gone.....don't need to be breathing that stuff.......or dealing with the random hidden damage the little buggers can inflict. A little bit, I can deal with, but it's one of those judgment calls that needs to be made in person.
     
  12. Derek.

    Derek. Junior Member

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    It might not be all the codes. I borrowed the laptop from my father and his laptop battery is nearly dead so I didn't do the full scan. Also ran out of evaluations so I had to reinstall. Putting in the cv shafts, ball joints, brakes and wheel bearings today and tomorrow and I'll try scanning it again after then look into the parking lock. It does work when the car is powered off, I have figured out. So maybe its just to do with the ABS sensors not working right because of the corroded cv shafts. There's a lot of corrosion under the hood, probably from the northeast salt. The aluminum is all covered with this rust like whiteish powder. I wonder if corrosion has something to do with all the issues. Suspension stuff is coming apart with a lot of difficulty. The rear wheel bearings were frozen into the knuckle quite firmly. I had to press out the front ones. Doesn't appear to supposed to be a press fit, but became it with all the corrosion buildup.

    Thanks for the help everyone, I appreciate it.
     
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  13. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

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    Check the usual indicators for flood damage. I mean, besides corrosion under the hood. If you find them perhaps you might want to reconsider this project. Flood damaged cars are notorious for developing an endless series of problems.

    Even if all you are seeing is road salt corrosion, it is still corrosion, and that does not bode well for this car in the long term. Of course I'm saying that from a position of privilege, since corrosion problems are very rare in California cars, even very old ones. I understand that cars elsewhere in the country will inevitably develop some corrosion issues as they age.
     
  14. Derek.

    Derek. Junior Member

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    Thanks to the folks who were helpful. I'm heading over to reddit for help, they don't keep telling me to throw in the towel.
     
  15. The Electric Me

    The Electric Me Go Speed Go!

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    To be clear, I'm not telling you to throw in the towel, but I am telling you to consider it.
    Anything can be a project, and sometimes that is what someone really wants. Something to work on.
    But for me, with an automobile it comes down to the financial sense investment makes, and maybe more and most importantly, how safe the vehicle is.
    Lot's of description of corrosion and rust, that makes the body entirely questionable. Further with evidence of rodent damage, I think all wiring has to be considered questionable, those factors alone makes this a dangerous vehicle to operate.
    This is NOT a project I would want to invest into. Really because I don't think it's safe, and I'm not convinced it can be reasonably or easily made safe.
     
  16. Thepriusthatcould

    Thepriusthatcould Junior Member

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    Were you able to solve this problem? I also have these 2 codes along with P0A0F.

    Will make a separate thread. Thank you.
     
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