Oil Change

It really feels like Toyo:

1. Did a search-and-replace, sub'ing 0W16 for 0W20.

2. Repeated the above, sub'ing 0W20 for 5W20.

Just a policy shift?

 

0W-16 oil was recommended for the Prius PHV (aka Prius Prime) from the initial inception back in 2017 in JAPAN. I have read the only reason 0W-20 was recommended for the initial release of Prius Prime in North America back in 2017 was due to the lack of availability of 0W-16 oil in the market at the time. Now 0W-16 oil is readily available and as cheap as 0W-20 oil on store shelves, Toyota has shifted the policy.

Yeah, I am sure I can use 0W-20 on my 2020 PRIME, but since I have 2 free oil changes by Toyota Care, I don't think I need to worry about it for a while.

 

Mendel how's that Linseed oil solution holding up on your under-carraige. I've been thinking of doing something similar on my Prime. I've been looking at a product called Fluid Film and maybe doing the brake connectors, exhaust, suspension, and anything else I can hit.

 

You might want to read this thread: Do you need underbody rust protection on new Prime? | PriusChat

In my comment #86, I showed using FluidFilm on the brake and suspension areas of my previous 2017 Prius PRIME after two winters in NE roads. Unfortunately, I traded in that 2017 PRIME early this year, so I have no result to show after a single winter in NE roads with FluidFilm. The FluidFilm is extremely sticky and thick compared to the boiled linseed oil. I plan to do a similar coating with FluidFilm on my new 2020 PRIME when I change to winter tires soon. The photos are from my 2017 PRIME last fall when I applied FluidFilm onto the rusting area.

 

I haven't tried Fluid Film but I've heard good things about it. The South Main Auto guy (You Tube mechanic) uses it a lot, likes it. Being a spray is a big plus I think.

The boiled linseed is holding up good too. Someone (maybe on BITOG?) postulated: it's use is not widespread because it's relatively ubiquitous, easy to come by, not that marketable as a "miracle" product.

I brush it on with disposable foam brush; it cures relatively thin and almost tack-free. @tvpierce mentioned here he'd used it and it worked well.

The main thing seems to be doing it, and thoroughly, using something, on a semi-regular basis. It's not a fun job; well maybe it is: it's very satisfying, seeing it holding up, arresting the rust.

 

I wonder if I can use boiled linseed oil in a sprayer. That would make the application much easier. The aerosol can is convenient but can get to be very expensive. I am thinking of getting a 5 gal bucket of FluidFlim and a sprayer but boiled linseed oil would be much cheaper.

 

I've heard BLO is often thinned about 50/50 with paint thinner, say for application to wooden outdoor furniture. I've used it thus, but only full-strength on the car.

Dilute might make spray application more viable. Would be advantageous over brushing, especially some intricate, hard to reach spots.

Using brush full-strength where you can and dilute spray in just the corners might be good strategy. Try with a small amount small/cheap spray bottle, so if it gums up not a great loss. I suspect the spray bottle might have to be one shot: it'll work fine but if you set it aside for a week or two it'll be gummed up.

 

The sprayer they sell for FluidFilm is capable of spraying extremely thick undiluted lanolin material, I don't see any reason it wouldn't work with undiluted boiled linseed oil. 5 Gal of FluidFilm is ~$160 vs 5 Gal of BLO is ~$90. I don't know the actual coverage, but being much thinner, the BLO must cover a much wider area than FluidFilm.

 

Boiled linseed oil and Fluid Film are both great at doing this sealing, corrosion preventative job.
LPS-3 is the real deal in aviation, thus it's the most expensive corrosion inhibitor.
All are safe on rubber bushings and hoses and electrical wiring.

This reminds me, I need to do this treatment to my '17 Bolt Premier before the winter 'salt season' begins.

I bought it in LA and drove it back to KC.
114° in LA and Vegas, 22° with snow and slush coming down out of the Rockies, 30 mph headwinds and rain across the lonesome prairie.

Kind of made it a vaca by visiting Arches National Park. Got a free DCFC in Moab, UT!

Otherworldly sunrise/sunsets!
And did some Hot Springs soaking and an overnight in Glenwood Springs, CO.
Nice Vaca, Gadawful road trip...
But...

The EV Highway exists! Today!

My Blizzard Pearl '11 Prius level 5 w/ATP is gone!!!
It was the most expensive Prius possible when new, and, evidently, a collectible!
I had a bidding war going on! Some people make a business of exporting unique cars like that, the jerks...

 

That seems like a good solution. I'd be interested to know if/how works.

 

Yeah, only problem I have is whether my small portable air compressor is fit for the job or not. What I read is that I need an air compressor with at least 3HP or more of motor that can supply enough continuous air, but my portable air compressor has only 1.5hp. If I have to buy an expensive stationary two stage air compressor, the whole plan fails. I also have problem of raising the car up high enough to do the job easily DIY. All things considered, it may be easier and cheaper to pay a shop to apply FluidFilm, ~$150 for a regular SUV or truck. However, with PRIME, all the underside panels has to come off, which makes the job even harder and more costly.

 

I suspect the aerosol fluid film has more solvents than the bulk kind. It bubbles and flashes off as you spray it. So you might be getting even less product for the price than the label suggests.

In my experience, anything behind a panel doesn't rust, at least not nearly as bad as unprotected metal. If you're planning on keeping the car forever it might be worth doing, but otherwise I think you could just spray the exposed parts.

 

Third gen experience, FWIW: the rear suspension has trailing arms, with hinge points behind panels. Their hinge points are behind plastic shields, and we're rusty as heck. There's some small bolts securing the panels, and they were almost seized.

Bodywork behind panels has stayed pretty clean; it's mainly suspension pieces rusting (single, token coat of black paint?). And bolts.

 

Yeah, that was my take when I got my 2017 Prime. I had my Gen3 (2015) sprayed FluidFilm by a shop without taking off any of the undercover. But when I brought then brand new 2017 Prime to the same shop, they just told me that there are nothing they can spray without taking off the covers. So, I let go, and did nothing for two winters. But after two winters, rust has developed on more exposed visible portion of the frames, axles, exhaust system, suspensions, and break area parts a bit more than I can stomach. Although I never looked to see what was like behind the under-body cover shields, I sprayed FluidFilm on all I can see and easily accessible parts without taking off the under body cover and without raising the car up high. That was last fall. Yap, I sold my car since then, so that effort was for nothing. I don't know how long I will keep the new PRIME this time, but we also have two other older cars. So, bulk FluidFilm or WoolWax maybe cheaper and easier than aerosol spray cans.

 

Even more off topic, does anyone know if it's bad to spray Fluid Film on rubber parts like suspension bushings, rubber boots, etc? Or how bad is it? I try to avoid them, but it's impossible to avoid overspray without masking, which would greatly increase the amount of work involved.

 

Brush application avoids this issue, more controlled and surgical. I like the idea of using mostly brushing, just using a hand spritz bottle for the unreachable corners.

 

Let's move the discussion of rust prevention to the underbody rust protection thread.

Do you need underbody rust protection on new Prime? | PriusChat

 

Lots of great advice here. I'm going to get this done.

One of the reasons I'm motivated to do this is because I've typically left my cars outdoors. In the winter the cold stays cold, and the H2O is usually frozen through the worst of it. But with the Prime I'm going to be parked in the garage a lot because of the charger. With all the indoor/outdoor movement, there will be a lot of melting of salty slush in my garage this winter!

 

Am I alone in thinking a garage fronted by a carport would be a good architectural feature?

 

That would be awesome!