Need help! Combination meter went blank, recovered later.

12.1 with ready doesn't make sense, it should be charging, around 14 volts.

if that's the case, maybe the battery isn't taking or getting a charge.

 

hard to say. 12.1 may be fine. watch it for a few days and see if it happens again. if you're keeping the car, you'll need a new 12v sooner or later, depends on your philosophy, but it may or may not be the problem.
you can get a free load test at most auto parts stores

 

Do you mean the combination meter, which is the speedometer cluster, or the MFD, which shows your backup camera and fuel economy? The symptoms are not clear but sound like you're describing the MFD. If so, many people have reported their MFDs dying right about now, and I had mine die 2 weeks ago. You can buy one on eBay or from a junkyard.

 

That sounds about right. The reverse signal to the MDF comes from the CM.

It does sound like it is the early symptoms of a dying combination meter (CM). You can monitor it for a while and disconnecting the 12 V battery can bring it back on for a time. Getting a new 12 V battery will likely make the CM fail to start more frequently until it finally starts no more.

If you are handy with a soldering iron and can do board level repairs, you can fix the CM yourself, or else you can contact Matt @Texas Hybrid Batteries who can sort you out with a repaired board on an exchange basis.

 

is their a pick up or sensor for imoblizer in the dash or speedo head somewhere?? gotta red imobilizer light steady no dash lights after dash swap..

 

Are you sure that you plugged in everything when you reassembled the dash? Specifically the power button, the park button, (or the key slot- if you disturbed that). More than once I have had to go back into something because I overlooked a little connector somewhere.
Also, is your car equipped with SKS and have you cycled the SKS button under the dash? Have you tried the fob in the key slot?

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this is a base but ive buttons to disable start button and reset tpms left of obd plug.. i did not unplug master switch etc ive had lower fascia off for sometime now master just hangs .. or is stuk in vent hole they all broke upon touching them

 

What's wrong with using the power button, understanding that it works by being held down for 5-7 seconds? I find it pays to count out 1-1 thousand; 2-1 thousand; 3-1 thousand; 4-1 thousand; 5-1 thousand; etc which seems a lot longer when you do this.

If you want a 'Plan B', tie a piece of string to the manual release lever which is long enough to reach and drape over the driver's side rear seat so you can release the rear door without too much drama.

 

That's a lot of kicking the can down the road. I'd just replace that bad capacitor in the CM and be done with it.