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Petrol Engine not Running

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by john crompton, Dec 7, 2020.

  1. john crompton

    john crompton New Member

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    Yes it does... no, she's scatty, but not that... surely...? ...and I would definately get an "of course not!" if I asked. I did remove the fuel cap and had a sniff though. No evidence of diesel around the neck either.
     
  2. john crompton

    john crompton New Member

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    Oh dear - what I was worried about every time I tried to start it after checking something. Last time I did, the battery showed three blue bars and the engine started. It ticked over as before for about 10 seconds, then, as the battery display dropped DOWN into the purple, the revs began to climb and then as it went to one bar it switched off and up came the triangle. Its had it, hasn't it? :-(
     
  3. john crompton

    john crompton New Member

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  4. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    They rarely fail, just use MAF cleaner for cleaning up the MAF, or test and replace if needed.

    Looks like you now have a bigger problem with the HV battery being discharged.
     
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  5. john crompton

    john crompton New Member

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    OK, its been a while... After trying everything you all very kindly suggested and having no luck at all, I decided that as the traction battery was now getting dangerously low, with the best cells at 7.0v and some dropping nearer 6, I shelled out the £420 for a replacement second-hand COMPLETE traction battery unit from a scarpyard. This came "tested" (whatever that means) and with a 30 day warranty. I installed it and have the same problem. I thought the wife was mad at me before this, but I was wrong... NOW she's mad! Any more suggestions...? Anybody... Bueller... Bueller...?
     
  6. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    What do the OBD2 code (DTCs) read, please post the DTCs here for additional guidance.

    It sounds like a depleted HV battery. Can you locate or purchase a HV power supply? (Prolong device, etc)

    After testing, if the modules show a voltage difference, then use the 30 day warranty and take back possession of your old pack.

    Before accepting, please confirm the returned pack is the same as the untouched/virgin pack that you exchanged cash for.
     
  7. john crompton

    john crompton New Member

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    Sorry, still new at this chat lark... I don't even know where I would find an HV supply here in the middle of Wales - I'm lucky if I've got mains electricity! The OBD2 codes are now P3190 and P0A0F. I understand that the second one is just telling me the engine isn't charging the battery, so the 3190 is the one that matters... Symptoms are still the same - Engine starts, ticks over, then the revs rise slowly as if the choke was closing, then it dies. As I thought right at the start, this was not initially a hybrid issue, it just became one as I overtaxed the HV side trying to make it go. MAF is replaced and throttle body cleaned (butterfly can be moved with a finger). Next most likely sensor is...
     
  8. john crompton

    john crompton New Member

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    ...this may not be relevant, but it was dark when I was performing the latest test and I noticed that the light in the driver's window button was flashing dimly when the ignition was on... it may be that it is supposed to do that, or it might be another fiendish Japanese secret error message, its just that I've never noticed it before.
     
  9. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    For an engine to function, it needs fuel, air and spark. It also needs the (properly functioning) support systems that provide these 3 items. If you haven't yet, check out the below link for a good discussion of your codes.

     
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  10. john crompton

    john crompton New Member

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    I have just been looking at this... 2001-2009 Prius P3191, P3190, P0A0F - easy checks for these common codes regarding my error codes. Their picture of a "dirty" throttle body looks like mine AFTER I cleaned it! You've got to realise people that my next newest car is a 1972 and "cleaning" means "scraping the lumps off". I now realise that 21st century cleaning means "eat your dinner off clean"... I'll go back in there tomorrow and polish it to within an inch of its life. As you have probably gathered, I don't really do "modern"... ;-)
     
  11. john crompton

    john crompton New Member

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    Yeah, I saw that one... didn't fill me with confidence. :-(
     
  12. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    When my son's 2005 started acting stupid, I held the t-body open with a rod and scrubbed the heck out of the interior with a toothbrush and throttle body cleaner. This was done with it still installed on the engine. I probably went through 3/4 of the can of cleaner. The intake manifold has a low area that will hold the fluid, preventing it from running down into the cylinders. Once the engine starts, it will dry out quickly.
     
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  13. john crompton

    john crompton New Member

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    Yes! I can't wait for it to get light now, so I can try this...
     
  14. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Remove the plastic intake housing after disconnecting the MAF wiring/connector, then use an old toothbrush with a little bit of rubbing alcohol or vodka, the bore/plate will clean up in seconds.

    If the intake looks like this or worse, then it is considered dirty.

    [​IMG]
     
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  15. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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  16. john crompton

    john crompton New Member

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  17. john crompton

    john crompton New Member

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    Like I said, to me that looks squeaky clean! Mine was black all the way down and I scrubbed it up to this level. I'm amazed that this small amount of crud can cause a problem, but I'm happy to go back and do it properly, especially if I can regain some points from the domestic authorities by getting her car working again!
     
  18. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    #38 SFO, Dec 17, 2020
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 14, 2021
  19. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Good catch SFO. Totally forgot to mention it makes life a lot easier when you pull the MAF sensor out first.
     
  20. john crompton

    john crompton New Member

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    Here we are again! Throttle body is now so clean you really could eat your dinner off it... The process sent a whole can of carb cleaner into the manifold too... Guess what...? It started and ran for much longer than before and I was almost ready to smile when it died again. After mulling this over yet another cup of tea with my son who seems to grasp how these things work far better than me (not difficult), I have reasoned thus: Car starts when the system is in "start mode" and is richening it up for 5 seconds or so while the sensors do their checks. After that, "normal tickover" is resumed, the mixture is weakened and it dies. With a ton of highly volatile carb cleaner going down its throat, it managed to run for longer, so I'm looking at either a fuel starvation issue, bad fuel, or diesel in the bloody tank. I am now going to take the rear seat squab out, remove the pump and see is the filter is blocked, or the fuel is contaminated. Oh joy of joys...