I need help please!! Battery cable broke!

a dealer should have it, or even an auto parts store for something generic, but you need the right size post clamp.
definitely fix that first and see if the code comes back.

 

The post clamp is still there and ok and clamped to the post. This is the flat terminal that plugs into the fuse assembly there. You can look it up with a TIS subscription, but for looking up one terminal. it's just easier to let the person at your dealer's parts counter do that for you. They already have TIS.

 

IF......the car will still run with that disconnected, almost ANY auto shop or auto parts store should have one that will work.

 

^ This.

 

The car can probably be driven to your friendly automotive electrical shop; you could use the jump point under the hood to get it started. The loose end of that cable back there should be taped into a sturdy glove or something, else if it bounces against body metal with the car on there will be some impromptu arc welding done.

It's good to keep in mind that the battery post clamp and the #1 fuse/link block are still there and still just fine, and the terminal that is needed is just the one on the end of the cable where it plugs into the fuse block. This is not as likely to be the kind of thing you just find at any auto parts store. A battery post clamp you could easily find, and use in place of the whole fuse block and without any fusing ... but that would be a less smart thing to do (he wrote, mildly).

While you can generally pick up the exact repair terminals from the dealer, another consideration with that one is that it will be large enough to call for special tooling to crimp the repair. Your local independent auto electric shop already has that tooling and could complete the repair in about two minutes flat and it would be beautiful. You might consider bringing them the right terminal from the dealer, so they don't have to hope they have something in stock that's close enough.

 

Regrettably, it's called 'expensive', so repairing the terminal on the end is the practical way to go.

It is the "wire, floor, no.2" shown here with the callout 82162. It is shown as dark in this illustration. As you can see, it goes a bunch of places, so replacing it is some tedious labor too. It comes in two versions depending on the exact configuration of your car, so the right one is needed. Either one is around $680.00 list.



The connector housing that you need there is (I think) part number 90980-11775, around eight dollars.

Although, honestly, you probably don't need the housing; that's the white plastic part you've got in your hand, and it's probably fine. What you need is the metal repair terminal that goes in it.

I can't get you that part number (without dropping another $20 to re-up my TIS subscription). But the person at your Toyota dealer parts counter can, just like that. Their TIS subscription is always paid up.

I'm going to guess that the price on that will be about $27.50. Maybe we can start a little pool here and see who guesses the closest.

 

I’ve written before about connector F15. It is a 90980-11775 housing, but Toyota doesn’t seem to sell a repair wire; at least, that housing is listed without a part number for a repair wire in the Wire Harness Repair Manual (more info) and in recent editions of the Electrical Wiring Diagram. Toyota’s position, stated in the EWD series for later models and in bulletin G-8101T-TMC, is that “repair is not a reasonable option as the repair quality cannot be guaranteed” for an “8 sq or larger wire harness for high-current systems.” That said, I’d be interested to know if a dealer would offer any alternatives to replacing the complete wire harness.

I still don’t know where one could buy Yazaki 7116-3095-02 terminals in small quantities, by the way. There is a Yazaki 9.5 (375) terminal in hi-1000ec.com’s catalog, but I think it might be from another series: the dimensions are different, and it lacks a locking tab.

 

That cable IS something you'll need to be careful with. That cable is the one that goes all the way to the underhood fusebox terminal connector on the fusible link module.

If you 'jerry rig' the cable to the (+) battery post, just ensure it's a firm connection. Although you can still jump start the car to get it running off the inverter, when the car is 'off' there are still some pump functions that will run using battery power, and you don't want a weak connection to get hot..

Personally, it may be easier and cheaper to go to a salvage yard and cut about 6 inches off that cable and just splice it to your cable.