12V Battery Cable help ASAP

Contact another dealer or two.
I think the person you talked to the first time is a moron.

Then / or contact a few auto parts stores. Some of them can MAKE whatever size and length of cable you need.

 

I gotchu. I can probably help you out. Are you just looking for a pigtail section to splice into it to replace a few inches, including the plug?

I'm only looking for 2k....

Just kidding of course. Let me know what you need, I'm pretty sure I can hook you up.


Also, it looks like only the insulation is damaged or is that the actual plug that's broken? Are the majority of the internal copper strands ok? If they are, I'd just slap some liquid electrical tape over it and call it a day. What problem are you experiencing?

This is my test plug. I can send it your way and just grab another next time I go to salvage yard and see a gen 2.

 

Welcome to PriusChat!!

For reference, here is the wiring diagram including connectors : https://priuschat.com/attachments/prius-wiring-pdf.33780/

Though @TMR-JWAP has kindly offered to help, you may find a donor vehicle at one of the local junk yards.

I couldn't find a part number for it, and don't see it listed in the above PDF.

Maybe @Elektroingenieur can find it?

 

By the way, what happened to that one??

 

The photo shows damage at connector F15, at the fusible link block assembly.

According to the Electrical Wiring Diagram (more info) and Wire Harness Repair Manual, the empty connector housing is available as a service part (90980-11775), but repair wires (pigtails with pre-crimped terminals) are not, probably because the wire is so large.

When repair parts are not available, Toyota’s answer would be to replace the entire harness, the No. 2 Floor Wire, part number 82162-47270, list price $739.39. (See catalog Figure 82-02, Wiring & Clamp; click View More Images, and then see illustration 823614E.)

I think @TMR-JWAP's kind offer, or to find a similar harness in a junkyard, are your best bets.

As @sam spade 2 kindly suggested, you might be able to have a cable made to replace the original, running from connector F15 to wire-to-wire connector BE1 on the left side of the car, but the terminals would need to be an exact fit: this is a high-current connection, and you don’t want anything to be loose. I’d also strongly recommend against bypassing the fusible link block and connecting directly to the battery.

The connector and terminal are probably Yazaki 9.5 (375) series, but I’m not sure where you’d buy the terminals in small quantities. My usual supplier, hi1000-ec.com, of Osaka, Japan, doesn’t seem to have them.

 

Your eyes seem to be better than mine.

I made an ASSumption based on his "battery cable" description, since I really couldn't tell which of the 3 or 4 cables in the picture he is really talking about.

As such, my answer about having one made at an auto parts store probably wouldn't work.
BUT.....an honest to goodness independent auto repair shop probably could "fix" whatever is broken.
Maybe not with "stock" parts but that doesn't seem to be an available option.........nor desirable, even.

 

I think I would get a used connector and length of wire from a salvage or online source and use a Home Depot electrical wire "Splice Kit" and insulate it with heat shrink to connect it to the existing harness.

 

Well, the OP has been MIA since his initial post, so the ASAP portion is likely now N/A.

Guess I get to keep my test leads............sometimes you can't even give stuff away.......

 

The Home Depot splice kit with the screw clamps probably was designed for a setting with the vibration levels of a house more than those of a car.

What an auto electric shop would do is crimp it; the barrel would look a lot like the Home Depot thing but without the screws, and after they were done with it there would be nothing to work loose, ever.

For smaller wires, Toyota usually sells repair wires and crimp sleeves that can be crimped with hand tools. Elektroingenieur is probably right that this one isn't sold because of the larger wire gauge and crimp sleeve and tooling it would need. But what I would probably do is follow TMR-JWAP's lead and harvest the terminal and several inches of wire from a parts car, but then go to a friendly local auto electric shop to have them crimp it to the existing harness. They will have crimp sleeves big enough, and they will have the corresponding crimping tools and not be afraid to use them.

 

I tried to use the "Start a Conversation" feature to message you, but it keeps giving me an error. Can you try from your end? If it works, just send me your mailing info and I'll have it on its way!

 

This forum is one of the worst for notifications. Even your replies here took many hours to show up in this thread. I think it is something the moderators or admin could fix if they wanted to.

 

He's under 5 posts, so until then, it requires moderator approval.

Having only 1 frequently active moderator does have its drawbacks .

Maybe one day they'll increase the ranks.

 

Clearly its a problem. Plus notifications fail to send as demonstrated over and over again. Most forums I have been active on would have two moderators per model or generation. Maybe ten for something like this.

 

If there is heat damage to the actual connector then I would look really closely at the mating terminals on the little fuse block that is part of the positive battery clamp. Any burning or pitting of the terminals can end up damaging your replacement connector.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Plus make sure you splice far enough back such that there is clean copper.