Hybrid battery No. 2 Frame wire voltage sensor HACK

That seems likely backwards: you see frequent P3011-P3024 voltage difference between modules due to hybrid battery failures.

 

It's easier to just use Dr. Prius app as you drive to clear codes as they come up... That way you can also monitor battery temp to make sure you don't overheat your pack.

 

Seems unsafe to bypass the safety system. If you have a cell that is very low how do you keep trying to charge it it could overheat.

 

This seems like another solution to the problem "how do I keep driving on my failed battery until the tops blow off?"



It just seems like one of the more needlessly elaborate solutions to that problem. I think most people who want to do that just keep resetting the codes and driving until the tops blow off.

 

Why not just fix the actual problem with the car?

Also, I wouldn't expect it to work as the ecu measures voltage between each of the pairs of wires. 1 to 2, 2 to 3, 3 to 4, etc. Start tying any of the sense wires together and you don't have any voltage difference across them and the ecu will be sad.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Toyota engineers have no idea what they are doing? Just replace the battery if it fails. Not even worth thinking you are smarter than Toyota and “hacking” imho

 

Kind of comes down to, what are the odds that corrupting the information the battery ECU relies on to manage the battery ends up optimizing it?

 

There is an opportunity to optimize battery management. You hire a software prodigy, reverse engineer the code in your gen2 and ideally gen3 and gen4, cherry pick the incremental improvements, apply them to reengineered code for your gen2, test and iteratively develop the new code and finally, you have successfully hacked the battery management system.

Might as well cut to the chase and buy a Rav4 Prime with 300 hp, 42 miles ev and decent mpg. But if you do reverse engineer and improve the Toyota code, a major business opportunity to market the results will appear.

 

Toyota engineers were a little "conservative" in their design as they wanted owners to bring a failing battery in to be replaced instead of throwing codes after it had already completely failed.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

As a sanity check working on used gen 2 battery packs, to extend the life of the pack safely where performing a sense wire connector to plug continuity check, am wondering why the above connector is labelled B12 Battery ECU and incorrectly labelled on the pins in regards to the block sense wires? Guessing the pin numbers on the B12 Battery ECU connector are referenced on a table, schematic, wiring diagram or something elsewhere?

My findings are with the connector-plug facing you and where the wires interface the B12 Battery ECU pins, pins 1 - 7 and 12 - 19 are only used and as found:

Terminal Ring 1 - Pin 12
Terminal Ring 2 - Pin 1
Terminal Ring 3 - Pin 13
Terminal Ring 4 - Pin 2
Terminal Ring 5 - Pin 14
Terminal Ring 6 - Pin 3
Terminal Ring 7 - Pin 15
Terminal Ring 8 - Pin 4
Terminal Ring 9 - Pin 16
Terminal Ring 10 - Pin 5
Terminal Ring 11 - Pin 17
Terminal Ring 12 - Pin 6
Terminal Ring 13 - Pin 18
Terminal Ring 14 - Pin 7
Terminal Ring 15 - Pin 19

Took me a minute or two to think about how the blocks are sensed as well as I was wanting to associate the Terminal Ring ends of the sense wires with blocks directly without thinking the computing for the electrical characteristics calculations. Then only took a second or two walking the signal path. Of course, my multimeter 9V rechargeable battery went dead throughout the continuity testing and oddly my continuity check setting on the multimeter decided many of the LCD segment bars are not going to function with no load on the test leads.

Fun fun, starting the day off with no 8mm socket where I am at. Felt like one of those earlier on mechanic experiences of not finding a 10mm socket.

On a hack note, the only thoughts I've had regarding are:
1. Adding additional NiMH HV packs in parallel that are sensory dumb with a relay for the fan that triggers via the temperature probes. Possibly adding additional sensory and or balancing computers with displays to monitor and control optimizing performance.
2. Maybe do something with a better quality lithium battery added in parallel that is only grid charged and with a similar fan controller though with a diode to assure no power is going to the battery from the HV battery and MG's.
3. How one would add an additional 14 or 28 charge controllers with balancing to balance I guess when the vehicle is not operating since would be way more hacking effort to do during operation. Seems a grid charger like the Prolong or DYI LED PSU designs acting as a trickle charger topper is way easier and similarly a trickle charger topper for the 12V battery where both can have like a cable wire rope installed on the power cords so if you drive away, the cable wire rope assures the connection and cord stay OK.

 

Yeah, the Electrical Wiring Diagram shows the pin assignments there, as described further in this post, except for gen 1, where that info was missing from the EWD.

For gen 1, I even made a post like yours by inspecting an actual frame wire (though it turns out if you look in the gen 1 Repair Manual instead of the EWD, you do find the pin assignments on the page for the P3030 code, could've saved me the trouble).

Toyota Service Information and Where To Find It | PriusChat

2006 (gen 2):



Note: there may be some aftermarket sources for no. 2 frame wires. Naturally, they have to match the pin assignments, but they might differ on the insulation colors.