Help me out here.

I’ve read through numerous threads about P0A80 and hybrid battery failures. They all seem to have the same issue. A scan of the hybrid battery shows at least one bad block with significant voltage drop.

Well, my scanner shows them all pretty consistent. I’d argue they even look great for a 2013 with 220 on it. All within 0.2-0.3v. All the resistance values look within spec too. 0.025 - 0.027 ohms. Block 7 shows 0.030. Nothing really crazy. I’ve watched live data, temps look good, all blocks charge well and fast and all perform well under load. The variance is always within .2-.3v.

My 12V battery was replaced in September 2021.
My scanner shows it fluctuating quite a bit. 11.6-11.8 with the car off. Sometimes 12-12.10.. always 13.40-14.20 when the car is in READY mode.

Just now, got out of the car, ign on but not in ready mode. ECU shows 12v at 12.05. Multi meter at the battery shows it at 12.5v.

I’m going to take it to get load tested tomorrow, but I just don’t buy it that the hybrid battery is smoked.

Any insight?

 

So, the engine runs 100% of the time and the hybrid system doesn’t function. I don’t even get brake assist, at least not the normal amount. But watching the live data, the voltages fluctuate like normal. B+ is still at 13+ when the engine is running. But I never get a second code. I’ve noticed everyone with a second code has an obvious bad cell in their data. I apparently have zero bad cells.

I did have the battery tested by Toyota today, at first, it said “GOOD RECHARGE”.. so they threw it on their charger. It failed on their charger, so they warrantied it and gave me a new one. I’ll keep you updated. Apparently it was weak and wouldn’t hold a charge well enough to pass.

I should mention, I have a solar roof, so it should keep the 12v topped all the time.

 

no, they replaced my 12v battery under warranty as I bought it in September 2021.

a bunch of short trips yesterday and 40 miles round trip to work today and so far, no light. I don’t want to call it fixed quite yet, but it definitely drives a little better.

interesting about the solar. I have remote AC too. There’s no way that solar outputs enough to run the AC system, so it’s gotta all tie in somehow.

 

Remote AC only runs for 3 mins… but good to know I can leave that fan on for good and not tax my new 12v battery. It’s a TrueStart 45ah from Toyota btw. I’ll attach the test sheet.

I’m happy to report the P0A80 hasn’t returned, yet. I’ll give it a week or so and let y’all know. Crazy that a slightly diminished 12v can throw that code.

 

Well, it’s not letting me. Any idea why my posts are being so heavily moderated?? Lol

 

I had a brand new Toyota TrueStart battery in Sept 2021. It lasted a year and 8 months. Let’s hope this one goes longer. And yes, I charged it overnight two nights in a row. It would not hold a charge.

 

sorry Brian, this is simply not true. It happened to me back in 2021 when I bought this TrueStart battery that failed. The car already runs night and day better just from the 12v swap. As I said in the first post, all the hybrid battery blocks are functioning as they should. All within spec for voltage and resistance.

 

Such as?