2008 Prius Code P0AA6

I commented the following posts under a very old thread but decided to make a new thread because of the wonderful outcome that could help someone else out one day.

Someone please tell me what the B+ 13.73 V is referring to on this detail screen. It's a little hard to see because my laptop screen is going out.

 

I will also add these other screenshots if anyone would mind giving me their thoughts on it. I found this post because I'm in a similar situation but so far I have not done any of the troubleshooting steps towards these codes I have only run the Techstream and got the codes so far.

A little history: we purchased this 2008 Toyota Prius in 2015 with 159,000 miles on it and I'm now at 223,000 miles. I haven't had to do anything to it except for routine maintenance oil and fluid changes. I started noticing the ABS assembly actuator having to pump more frequently over the course of time and it finally threw the code and disabled the car. I found a used ABS module for about $100 out of another Prius and I replaced it and it cleared the codes and works great. After I cleared the codes for that there was one code remaining (b1442). I looked into this code briefly and I could hear a creaking noise under the dash and thought that it may be just the damper vent not opening fully kind of like what I read about the b1442. So because there were no lights on on the dash and everything else was running normally AC blowing cold car running great I just left it alone. I also change the cabin air filter and cleaned the HV battery fan which was terrible because it had never been done and it had paper in it and all kinds of dirt I don't know how it was even spinning. After driving the car a couple times over the next two weeks I was backing the car out of the driveway yesterday and it threw the red triangle so I pulled it back up into the driveway and parked it and received these codes and here I am. This car has a lot of sentimental value and I really would like to keep it running so thank you for everyone's help on this forum.

The strange thing is the current codes no longer show the b1442.

 

Update: After reading countless threads related to this topic I was devastated believing I had a cell leaking which was creating the electrolytic ground fault bridge. However, I watched a video about how you should check the 12V battery and also the A/C before pulling the hybrid battery. When I got home last night I checked the battery with a multimeter and found the battery very low at 12.3V. I attributed some of the very low state of charge to the fact that the night before I had run the Techstream with the ignition on for the entire health check which took an extended period of time. I purchased this Toyota brand 12v battery on 08/27/20 and it had an 84 month warranty so I figured the battery should be good. I put the charger on it and charged it up, started the car up and the red triangle and vsc light were gone. I drove it around the block several times this morning and was thanking God the whole way. I didn’t even have to clear any codes.


Next question is 1. What about the b1442 code and should I be concerned about it? and 2. Any other suggestions on how to diagnose the 12v battery parasitic drain other than hooking a multimeter up in series with the battery and monitoring the amp draw with the vehicle at rest?


The strange thing is I actually checked the 12v battery for parasitic drain after I replaced the ABS actuator. I hooked my super cheap ($9.00) multimeter up in series with the negative terminal on the 12v by way of the following: I drove the car around the block, parked it, opened the front two doors and rear hatch, and tripped the latches on the doors. I disconnected the negative terminal on the 12v, took some jumper cables and hooked the black jumper cable up to the negative post on the battery and the other black jumper up to the black lead that goes to the battery to complete the series. I let the car sit for a little bit then hooked my multimeter up in the series to the two connection points I created with the jumper cables and put the meter in milliamp mode. I was getting next to nothing which was way below 50mA. I was wondering if my meter was working so I pressed the rear hatch button on the trunk and watched the reading jump up in milliamps (I can't remember what the reading was for this) then settle back down. Just because I was already in there I decided to go down the line of fuses checking each one for anything other than 0 millivolts. I could not find any on the fuses that where under the hood. I guess that doesn't mean that there may be an intermittent draw that occurs over a period of time and I just wasn't patient enough?

 

In this case it was simply the 12v battery state of charge was too low and all was fixed along with the codes cleared after charging the battery.