Need help with install the front shock.

Raise the car at jack.point in front of door at rocker panel?. Wen it aligns put in hole add nut.?

 

All I'm saying is if you lay the strut tube down on the floor next to the original those tabs are in the same place on both of the shocks the one you took off the car and the one you're trying to put on I can't see from here usually I believe you've got to let the lower control arm go down a little further so the stuff will line up .

 

Raise the other side of the car too.

 

You only have to raise one side at a time.
You might want to loosen the axel nut so it will slide.
You might pop the cv joint off the axel when you remove the strut and
the assembly falls over. Brain fart on the part name....

 

You can do this, it's really easy....
When you remove the two bolts, Don't let the arm just fall, just slowly move it
until it just lays there. Don't panic on this stuff. Take your time.

 

It's a real easy job it's kind of like a puzzle you'll get it in a few minutes in a few tries and you'll be very satisfied when you do this is actually generally a very easy job once you get it you'll be amazed I guess.

 

I've done this with my old BMWs when working one side at at time in a cramped single car garage. Rest the car on a jack stand. Then use the jack under the front strut/shock with a piece of wood and very slowly jack up the strut (this compresses the spring, so go slow) straight up until the holes align. Then after you get it tightened slowly release the jack.

 

Generally if you put the struts on correctly and you've not moved the adjustments on the tie rods and when you put the two bolts in that attach the hub to the strut bottom if you push in on that assembly and tighten those two bolts you should be back where you started when you took the car apart that's a fact My alignment guy tells me all the time when I take him a car after I put the struts on no Tom you don't need an alignment You know as well as I do every time you do this you're within a 16th of an inch of where you were when you took the car apart we've gone over this and over this many times before and that's just how it works out so unless you're really sloppy and don't know any better or what have you You're alignment will be where it was when you took it apart if you reassemble it just like you took it apart You shouldn't be moving tie rod ends the adjustments or any of that right? Think about it so when you go to get your alignment if you're alignments off more than likely it'll be a slight bit of camber because when you put the two bolts through the hub you just tightened them up rather than pushing in on the hub letting it clunk and blasting the bolts tight with your air gun or electric gun or whatever you're doing If you left the hub pushing out towards you when you're standing at it tightening it then you'll be off a few degree a degree and a half or so on your camber You're alignment guy will loosen those nuts push it down tighten the nuts look and see what the heads are telling him on the car but the wheel back on and send you on your way probably.

 

You don't need an alignment. Unless you had issues before hand.
There are no caster or camber adjustment, unless you purchase those speacial
bolts to do a camber adjustment. Only the toe is adjustable. And if your tires
are wearing evenly, no reason to touch them.
Glad you were able to get them replaced. Fairly easy, right?

 

If the car drives straight, and the tires are wearing evenly, you don't need an alignment.
You also want to check the other parts. Control arm bushings, ball joints, sway bar links....