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Roommate's Car - P0A09 - Inverter Replacement?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by KitsuneVoss, Jun 17, 2024 at 8:23 AM.

  1. KitsuneVoss

    KitsuneVoss Member

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    Seems like I have been having issues all around. My roommate was driving their car, a 2007 Prius, to work and all the dash lights except the red triangle came on and stayed on. Started it at work and the red triangle came on when it was started. Engine would start and go in gear. However, when they drove it home, no red triangle but all the other dash lights came on still and stayed on.

    Getting techstream codes of:
    P0A09, C1343 (But engine was off at the time not in idle), B1421 (I had the same code on mine), B2795, and B1271. I did take pictures of all the codes and checked followup data for the C1343. All the others did not have additional data. No P0A08 code.

    I am thinking that P0A09 is likely the main one causing the others. If it is the inverter, they are not that expensive on eBay.

    Assuming the inverter, and I may be getting ahead of myself, how hard is it to replace? I have replaced two hybrid batteries so far and I done body work.

    I notice discussions of P0A09 have a lack of followup. I will try to post updates if I can figure it out.
     
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    I think that's the DC to DC converter that charges the auxiliary or 12 volt battery. That's on the bottom of the inverter and can be changed but once you take the inverter out to do that change getting that bottom plate off is quite messy it gets deformed etc You can run around and probably find a Prius inverter for the hybrid synergy drive 06 to '09 or '04 to '06 for probably near free from a local whatever junkyard place where people pile up metal junk cars etc find it on Facebook marketplace for $30 just to get it out of someone's way If you're in the southeast United States near North Carolina come by my house and what have you they're very stout well made rarely go bad a component went bad on the bottom and not charging the 12 volt battery like I say in a real mechanic shop world they would heat up the bottom plate pull it off and replace the DC to DC converter part whether it's from another vehicle or new don't have a clue If you're going to do that why not just use the hole inverter save yourself an hour of scraping the plate off the bottom like I say rarely are the inverters bad there are a couple of components on the inverter that can give you some grief and the 12 volt charging part of it is one of them but this is also pretty rare you want to read the codes with a capable tool and make sure you look at the freeze frame data and really see what you got write the codes all down have everything in order clear the business get the car to restart when the car is running what do you see on the 12 volt terminals with a test meter 13.5 to 14.5 then that thing is working You're moving on to something else check for the battery isolation fault with your test meter now that you have it out just to rule it out.. aha!
     
  3. KitsuneVoss

    KitsuneVoss Member

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    Is it part of the inverter or separate? If I just change out the inverter, will that replace the DC to DC converter at the same time?

    I can get one used for $200 on eBay and could theoretically look at local junkyards. $200 is painful but not "Let go of my arm" painful. I can charge on PayPal which would let me pay it in payments as well. You are a 3 hour drive from me, assuming Durham, so 6+ hour round trip.

    It can be tricky to test the current over the 12 v battery because the engine will shut down still.

    Edit: I notice a difference in inverters - There is 2004 to 2007 and 2007 to 2009.
    Car was made 05/07. making it a late model inverter.
     
    #3 KitsuneVoss, Jun 17, 2024 at 9:23 AM
    Last edited: Jun 17, 2024 at 9:36 AM
  4. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Take a look at this post. There are two signaling circuits between the DC/DC converter (contained in the inverter assembly) and the HV control ECU. They're called NODD and VLO.

    Try to get the INF code for your P0A09. If it's 265, it's about the NODD circuit. if 591, it's about VLO.

    Check the wiring before replacing the inverter. I don't care how cheap they are on eBay, nobody likes replacing a big heavy $$ part and then fixing a wire.

    Can you edit your thread title to say P0A09 ?
     
  5. KitsuneVoss

    KitsuneVoss Member

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    This is what I am getting. No option for more data as with the C1343.
    The C code has a little snowflake symbol in front of it

    Edit: As far as I can tell, I cannot edit the title.
    No advanced feature anymore.
    Never mind, found it.

    Edit-2: I think the reason why no P0A08 is because when my roommate bought the car, Just in February, Toyota replaced the 12 v battery,

    I looked in the engine compartment and took pictures of the inverter. It is lacking the front shield on the engine compartment that mine does just behind the "Grill" if that is the right term. What wire would I want to look at it, if I can reach it without removing the inverter? I can likely get my roommate to start the car tomorrow morning with me having leads across the 12v battery to see what happens.
     

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    #5 KitsuneVoss, Jun 17, 2024 at 9:58 AM
    Last edited: Jun 17, 2024 at 10:33 AM
  6. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    So what is that actually mean the DC to DC converter inverter for the 12 volt battery is not receiving enough voltage from the HV battery to convert to 12 volts? That seemingly what the code description seems to imply I am no fancy electrician or engineer so there you go But yeah there is some wires that come out of that bottom cover that go into a what gray plug that we were just talking about trying to remove the other week I think it was here in Prius chat so I guess where that goes is probably back to the battery the 12 volt maybe would be a good guess as it's coming out the back of the inverter towards the firewall and going like those orange wires that go down and all the way back to the battery the HV battery so yeah if those wires coming out of that gray plug or what have you or damaged or something not sure exactly how but that wouldn't be good And yeah the inverters heavy It's no problem to undo and take out Make sure you undo the plug in the battery in the back before you start all that you're going to have to undo the lid and undo the bolts out of the big orange plugs and pull them through and a few other plastic plugs and clips and the half circle grommet needs to be lifted out and laid in between the fuse box and where your inverter sits and the bolts got to come out and all that so to even work on that DC to DC thing You've got to get the inverter upside down or to the bottom of it.
     
  7. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I never wondered why no P0A08 ... you have a P0A09, they're separate codes, they don't have to show up in pairs or anything. Just because somebody else in another post had a P0A08, you don't have to.

    For the P0A09 that you do have, though, it is strange that you can't get the INF code. That would tell you whether to look at the NODD wire or the VLO wire. If you can't get it, well, just have to shrug and look at both.

    It's not much use to spend time on "seemingly what the code description seems to imply". Need to look in the manual and it says what the code means. P0A09 is about one of these two wires (depending on the INF code) between the converter unit and the HV control ECU.

    [​IMG]

    INF 265 means it's about the NODD wire. 591 means it's about the VLO wire. Whichever INF code, so whichever wire, the code means the ECU thinks it might be open-circuited or shorted to ground.
     
  8. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    And there would indicate the low power which I guess would be to supply the circuit?. But I would guess so That's what it seems to say in the code you haven't got the manual yet so I can't sit here and peruse and look through pages and pages at the moment the online people have all disappeared what have you with the manual posted up and then to do that with a PDF manual I have to go in and get on a big computer where I can put up at least two pages at a time but yes the factory manuals from Toyota or wonderful I've used them for many many many many years and they can sure cut your time from BS and around in the near half
     
  9. KitsuneVoss

    KitsuneVoss Member

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    Tuesday I have a medical appointment, so cannot look at it. Working right now.

    Is this just a visual test of the wiring or should I be testing it? I do have a multi-meter. Just not sure how I can test it with one end of the wiring being under the passenger side of the dash if I understand correctly?

    My plan before removing the inverter is to simply pull the orange breaker on the main battery. I don't need to remove the cover completely and disconnect the actual leads? I think I should likely disconnect the 12 v battery as well?
     
  10. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    You should test it. Yes, one of the connectors shown is on the inverter under the hood, and the other is on the HV control ECU behind the glove box. I don't think it's hard to take the glove box out for access, though I haven't actually done it in a gen 2.

    Nope; that's what the orange service plug is there for,

    But there are big capacitors inside the inverter that store charge. They are built to bleed off slowly. Give several minutes after pulling the service plug before you proceed.

    And before you fuss with any of that, check the NODD and VLO circuits that your trouble code is about. Those are ordinary low-voltage auto-electrical circuits. They won't hurt you, and you can check them with your multimeter.

    It's hard to figure out where you're getting this. There are two wires involved that run between the converter and the HV control ECU. One is purple and one is blue and they look like wires, and the ECU is saying one of them might be broken or shorting to ground. If we had the INF code and it was 265 it would be the purple one, 591 it would be the blue one. I'm looking right at the manual as I type this. Checking a circuit for a break or a short to ground is something auto electricians have been doing since long before Priuses. We don't have to make guesses about low power or what not.
     
  11. KitsuneVoss

    KitsuneVoss Member

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    I have had basic electronics many decades ago and have troubleshooted other problems with cars with electrical problems. Have a 1995 Ranger 2.3 liter that I use for hauling stuff and it was not charging the battery. That was an interesting problem where I had replaced the instrument cluster and the replacement cluster was causing the issue. While I may be slow, I can follow directions and usually figure stuff out. Wiring is at least not magic to me.

    My understanding is that the DC/DC converter is under the inverter. In order to test those wires, don't I need to disconnect the safety plug so as not to electrocute myself when removing the inverter? Can I get to those wires without removing the inverter?

    I took some pictures and I see an orange set of wires coming from the front and back of the inverter. I also see a pair of what look like black wires on the driver side fender side (next to the fuse box) that seem to connect to another wire trunk and head back towards the firewall.

    I have removed the glove box to replace the filter on my 2009. I am pretty sure I could get to the ECU under there. I have a 2001 Mustang that I was trying to replace the window control relay, which is wedged on the sidewall side of the drivers leg area and gave up on trying to get it out. Some equipment under some dashes can be tough to get out. Would I get any current through the wire with the ECU disconnected however?

    The one idea I can think of is if I can follow a wire from the ECU to the DC/DC converter is to run a jumper wire from where the ECU is to the Inverter and the DC/DC converter so I get a complete circuit and I can test the line for resistance. Get an open and I know it is bad. I don't think that is what you are thinking about however?
     
  12. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Things might get a lot easier if you arrange your own access to the repair manual, so we can be looking at the same pages.

    The inverter/converter assembly has both: high-voltage connections (those are all fat and orange), and also ordinary automotive low-voltage connections that will not electrocute you. You'll see connector C5 on it somewhere. It will have wires of several different colors, including a purple one at pin 4 and a blue one at pin 5.

    The wiring checks the manual would have you make are with C5 unplugged from the inverter, and H16 unplugged from the ECU. You can unplug those without worrying about anything high-voltage. Those are the ordinary low-voltage control circuits for the inverter and converter.
     
  13. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Hold on a second I'm going out to look at an inverter that's sitting out in the yard for the purple wire business to see where it is.
     
  14. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    I have the insulation cut back on the blue and gray plugs see blue wire blue wire with a white line no purple but a light green color and others I took a picture but that's not going to matter here.
     
  15. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Only purple wires I see are on the big plug that goes through the half round rubber grommet into the inside of the inverter that you unplug after you've lifted the lid and you're making ready to remove the inverter this plug would be undone it has a bunch of purple wires in it purple with silver dots and so on and so forth so I'm guessing that's where part of this is or something anyway yeah pretty cool.
     
  16. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    If you look in Prof. Kelly's video, you can see the light gray C5 connector on the back. The one above, with the multiple wires.

    The light gray one below it, with just one fat white wire, is the converter output.

    [​IMG]

    I'm looking in a 2006 wiring diagram where the NODD wire, C5 pin 4, is purple. If you've looked at a different year and it's not purple, they may have changed the color. It happens sometimes.
     

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  17. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    I'm looking at an '05 tour loaded JBL car inverter The '06 I think is the next one up that goes 06 to '09 or something like that so I guess what I have is the '04 and '05 the short nose
     
  18. KitsuneVoss

    KitsuneVoss Member

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    Is this the manual I should order?
    Link

    I have a service manual for a 2002 Prius for my 2003 Prius.
    Don't have one for my 2007 or 2009.
     
  19. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Personally, I wouldn't buy a Haines Prius Manual. They leave a lot out.
     
  20. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    No you do not want to buy the h a y n e s manual they're no longer what they were back in the '70s and '80s they used to be published out of the UK I think by a sparkford publishing or something like that I think somebody bought them up and turn them into light reading material what you looking for here is excerpts from the factory three book Toyota manual set and this well Chapman should be able to tell you pretty quick I think he mentioned it before there's like 16 pages for just this trouble so there's a lot you could be reading problem is everybody wants to charge you to read it and didn't used to be like this but everything now's behind the paywall there are some people running around with PDF copies of the real factory three book manual set some people hear sometime will post a link and then you can go read the 16 pages of serious stuff and there's no mistakes they go through it pretty pretty heavy duty-like and I guess my early inverter that purple wire is a different color I have a look to see what it's supposed to be or I don't know position 5 from position 8 in the plug Don't really care. Seems to me like the code is telling you that the DC the DC converter which converts the 200 and some odd volts down to the 13.8 to 14.5 is not sufficient whether the IC circuit or whatever kind of circuit is is gone bad that can't make that voltage so the output is low I think that's what it said in your original code in the text not the numbers so I guess you could get lucky in a wire might be melted bad something seems to me though where the wires are going is not really a very clear path for a lot of melting and hullabaloo with the wires but hey anything is possible in this world so I guess we will see. But I think most of the times that I've read about the DC to DC converter for the 12 volt battery charging usually people are opening up that glued gold plate on the bottom of the inverter and they're changing out that circuitry that's in there because it's non-functioning I don't think it normally seems to be the wiring but it's been ate up by an animal or some such type of thing. There have been people here before not that it matters that wound up changing those internals or they just drop on another inverter The generation twos are pretty stout in the inverter end of it they're nicer than the ones in the generation 3 I think but that doesn't really matter out of the cars we've had here nothing is ever pointed because we need to do anything with that silver top inverter everything else has happened except the blown engine but the inverter only got to move it out of the way to work on the brakes and put it right back not saying that it can happen but these have a very low rate seemingly of failure and people with the generation twos aren't in such a big hurry to change it like some over in the generation 3 they'll slap these things off and on as fast as you can undo the wiring of course there are some recalls for those.