P0A0D to no end…

Thank you for your input on that. The advice and knowledge is very much appreciated. I did not see any visual damage or arcing marks on either the orange switch or the black female connector side with the power wires. Together both show no signs of any arching. I was honestly hoping they were in need of replacement!

UPDATE:
For the past 3-4 days I have done 3 charging cycles starting small and ending with a discharge of about 80v for the last cycle then topped it off with a max of 244.3V. I had a fan blowing the battery pack which kept it cool during the entire process along with stock battery fan. The last 20 hour charge or so is what I ended with was right around 5am thankfully. I feel very confident in the results.

A little about the steps I took:
This has been my first 3 cycle battery rebalancing journey. The first two cycles were smaller cycles from around 120 V then back up to a balanced charge. The last cycle, I paid very close attention to voltage differences while using the two 25 watt bulbs especially down low to check differences in my readings with my tester. I have this on video with all the voltage readings clearly readable from module to module. I wish I could post a short video on here. I did this so that I would at least have an idea, but not until after the discharge was complete would I know the true differences. Being that I’m not a magical mathematician wizard. It was very bothersome to me not knowing how fast each module was discharging


PROOR TO ME POSTING THIS THREAD:
I did a load test to determine my worst cells then replaced them. After replacing, I gave the pack a full charge and load tested once again. After another balanced charge, I did the single discharge with the two 200 w bulbs, then a full charge to finish the pack up and put it back in the vehicle.

Some of the complications along the way were as follows:
During the discharge attempt, after being awake for almost 24 hours straight, I took a shop light with a 500 W halogen bulb, plugged a regular extension cord wired to the first module for positive and the 28th for negative and away she went obviously. Bulb shattered. I instantly started questioning myself because I know better. I was just hurrying through because I am a full time student and work full time. Single father half the week but back to the subject, the 120v didn’t agree with the 200+v. Imagine that. This took place shortly before I started this thread. Thank you for listening!!

 

I just don’t understand it. Do you think it’s a calibration issue with Techstream? Perhaps I should figure out how to “update” the Power Management Control unit? I do remember seeing and clicking on a few things pertaining to that several weeks back. I can take care of most things with Techstream with a little bit of time, but I’m not that knowledgeable with it just yet.

 

Love this. I’ll check it out for sure!! Thanks!

 

That is correct. Two of the 3 ECU’s had been in the car during the time the plugs were reversed. Since then, I tried using the 3rd ECU and there was no difference in readings. Maybe something is pulling current somewhere that I’m unaware of along the circuit? I wouldn’t think so, because I tested it with the plug plugged in as well on the other side I don’t know. I’m determined to figure it out. I feel like a weak ground would make the voltage very unstable so I don’t feel like that would be the case. I have tested several other pins off the ecu and have not had a problem with them so far, but I only checked a few. Just give me a little bit of time.