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P0A0D to no end…

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Technical Discussion' started by Awells80, Jul 15, 2024.

  1. vvillovv

    vvillovv Senior Member

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    I'd like to help, but I'm having a hard to following. Beside, imo Chat and TRM are the two best Gen 3 techs on this forum at this time. And there is no way I could offer any better help than they are giving you. In case it was missed (I know how hard getting a pack rebuild sussed out the first time around ) there was also a EGR cleaning while doing the pack reconditioning. (imo that's way overkill on the possiblity scales). my advice is to stick with one of the the other Chap or TWM suggestions and try to give as through a go at digging out answers for them. I said my piece, I"m out, and no real need to comment back as I'm pretty lost as it is.
    And don't be to afraid to ask them how to do, if you don't understand what they are asking you to test or look at. This stuff in pretty complex.
     
    #41 vvillovv, Aug 11, 2024
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2024
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  2. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    If all you did was use the safety interlock switch as a 'switch', the odds of causing any significant damage are very slim. It probably created a very small arc as the plug and socket made contact with each other, but the amperage is so low it's no big deal. It's just not a preferred practice to complete an electrical circuit because it's not really designed to be used that way. Lightbulbs aren't exactly designed for that either, but who cares about any arc damage on them..
     
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  3. Awells80

    Awells80 Junior Member

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  4. Awells80

    Awells80 Junior Member

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    Thank you for your input on that. The advice and knowledge is very much appreciated. I did not see any visual damage or arcing marks on either the orange switch or the black female connector side with the power wires. Together both show no signs of any arching. I was honestly hoping they were in need of replacement!

    UPDATE:
    For the past 3-4 days I have done 3 charging cycles starting small and ending with a discharge of about 80v for the last cycle then topped it off with a max of 244.3V. I had a fan blowing the battery pack which kept it cool during the entire process along with stock battery fan. The last 20 hour charge or so is what I ended with was right around 5am thankfully. I feel very confident in the results.

    A little about the steps I took:
    This has been my first 3 cycle battery rebalancing journey. The first two cycles were smaller cycles from around 120 V then back up to a balanced charge. The last cycle, I paid very close attention to voltage differences while using the two 25 watt bulbs especially down low to check differences in my readings with my tester. I have this on video with all the voltage readings clearly readable from module to module. I wish I could post a short video on here. I did this so that I would at least have an idea, but not until after the discharge was complete would I know the true differences. Being that I’m not a magical mathematician wizard. It was very bothersome to me not knowing how fast each module was discharging


    PROOR TO ME POSTING THIS THREAD:
    I did a load test to determine my worst cells then replaced them. After replacing, I gave the pack a full charge and load tested once again. After another balanced charge, I did the single discharge with the two 200 w bulbs, then a full charge to finish the pack up and put it back in the vehicle.

    Some of the complications along the way were as follows:
    During the discharge attempt, after being awake for almost 24 hours straight, I took a shop light with a 500 W halogen bulb, plugged a regular extension cord wired to the first module for positive and the 28th for negative and away she went obviously. Bulb shattered. I instantly started questioning myself because I know better. I was just hurrying through because I am a full time student and work full time. Single father half the week but back to the subject, the 120v didn’t agree with the 200+v. Imagine that. This took place shortly before I started this thread. Thank you for listening!!
     

    Attached Files:

    #44 Awells80, Aug 13, 2024
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2024
  5. Awells80

    Awells80 Junior Member

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    I just don’t understand it. Do you think it’s a calibration issue with Techstream? Perhaps I should figure out how to “update” the Power Management Control unit? I do remember seeing and clicking on a few things pertaining to that several weeks back. I can take care of most things with Techstream with a little bit of time, but I’m not that knowledgeable with it just yet.
     
  6. vvillovv

    vvillovv Senior Member

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    A few hints from one of the ole timers of grid charging at 99mpg.com
    a halogen shop light with 2 300 watt bulbs hacked into series is how he built his discharger.. check his site for schematics and pics etc.
    second. timing full pack discharge is a good practice, If you know the times of your first cycle set it's invaluable to compare with future cycling times. Both Jeffs at the original Hybrid Automotive and MaxVolts modeled their charger dischargers after Mikes 99mpg build. Hybrid revolt actually bought the GenesisOne charger discharger from Mike and sells a slightly modified version at his web site.
    Battery University is another good reference page. There is a ton of info at both sites and they can both be
    overwhelming the first few times they are visited even for students only studying battery packs and grid charging, much less people with heavy schedules and other responsibilities.
     
    #46 vvillovv, Aug 13, 2024
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2024
  7. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    No. I don't believe it is any of that woo at all. I believe it [P0A0D] is a problem in a simple series electrical circuit that will be found by focused, non-distracted, application of basic electronic troubleshooting.

    The last thing I remember reading here that seemed relevant was that a low voltage was observed on the ILK pin of two different ECUs, but that both of those two ECUs had spent time in the car while the other end of the ILK circuit was plugged into the wrong thing.
     
  8. Awells80

    Awells80 Junior Member

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    Love this. I’ll check it out for sure!! Thanks!
     
  9. Awells80

    Awells80 Junior Member

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    That is correct. Two of the 3 ECU’s had been in the car during the time the plugs were reversed. Since then, I tried using the 3rd ECU and there was no difference in readings. Maybe something is pulling current somewhere that I’m unaware of along the circuit? I wouldn’t think so, because I tested it with the plug plugged in as well on the other side I don’t know. I’m determined to figure it out. I feel like a weak ground would make the voltage very unstable so I don’t feel like that would be the case. I have tested several other pins off the ecu and have not had a problem with them so far, but I only checked a few. Just give me a little bit of time.
     
    #49 Awells80, Aug 13, 2024
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2024
  10. Awells80

    Awells80 Junior Member

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    I have researched with mixed preferences, but what other options are there besides Alldata? My monthly subscription has expired. Thank you in advance
     
  11. MAX2

    MAX2 Member

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    There is an algorithm for sequential actions when dealing with problematic code P0A0D.

    This code occurs when the safety control circuit is broken.
    Try to go through this algorithm again carefully.
     
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  12. Awells80

    Awells80 Junior Member

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    Not a bad idea. I’ll take more time with it. It’s possible I skipped right over something.
     
  13. Awells80

    Awells80 Junior Member

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    So I did just that. I went through the whole process. During my process, I took the extra time to de-pin 35&36 on the 62 connector to make sure they weren’t jarred open Too much, creating a loose connection while plugged in. She started up and sat there for a long time without the engine even coming back on, which is already a huge difference hybrid battery healthwise. I gotta go to work now or I’ll be late! . I’m in a hurry thanks everyone you’re awesome!

    I went through every wire in that interlock circuit VERY thoroughly from start to finish. I made sure all of my connections were connected properly with no corrosion and the wire terminal pins were seated properly and closed enough to have a solid connection while plugged in. I made my way to the A62 connector at the inverter and converter unit under the hood, unplugged it and did my readings once again with the same results. Because this was The problematic area, I decided that it must be a connection if my wire is good every which way, it’s bound to be somewhere in a connector. That’s when I decided to take the A62 connector apart and remove the female pins from the plug. After removing the wires completely out of the plug, I closed the pins in a bit to create a better connection. I then assembled the wiring back through the connector and plugged it back in. I installed the orange interlock switch back at the hybrid battery and hit the start button. It said , “ put your foot on the brake and hit the start button to put onto “ready” mode. I thought yeah right. But sure enough. Lit my whole world up. The “READY” was gleaming at me and it was such a beautiful moment The engine wouldn’t even run so I hit the gas to make it turn on and it stayed on for not even a minute and turned back off. I think this battery reconditioned very very well. I’m hoping. I had to rush to work right after it started.
     

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    #53 Awells80, Aug 14, 2024
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2024
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  14. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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