Need help!! Red Triangle

What scan tool or app did you use? Your scanner is not good enough to read the trouble codes that triggered the red triangle (master warning light). You need to use a better scan tool.

 

Sounds like you may have the HV isolation fault which lots of scanners will not pick that up unless it's a very new scanner with all the codes in it for hybrid vehicles this wouldn't happen in a regular car I'm not saying that's the code you have but it sounds like that that's partially possibly going on so you need to scan tool that can read all the codes that a Prius can throw out your best deal for that is a thing called an AP200 It's the best $63 you'll spend to deal with this vehicle forget the vent shades and the funny shaped air fresheners by this tool It would be a smart move If not you're going to be playing guessing games and wasting lots of money way more than the $63 that this tool will cost you You should get on that right away so you're not peeing in the dark on your own foot possibly.

 

Good info. Now do a search on this forum for posts about P0AA6.

 

What scanner did you buy? Is it capable of showing the freeze frame data for P0AA6 code?

 

What is the manufacturer and model number of the Bluetooth scanner that you purchased?

You need to look at the freeze frame data for the P0AA6 code to find the INF/detail code to help you find the location in the car where the problem is happening. This will help you in fixing the problem.

There are many threads in this forum that pertain to the P0AA6 code. Do some searching and a lot of reading to become knowledgeable about this code.

 

FYI, Dr Prius app and other apps are not capable of reading freeze frame data when used with the Veepeak Bluetooth adapter. To look at the freeze frame data, you need a better scan tool. Did you read the thread that I linked in post #2 ?

 

The fastest thing you can do to get the quickest result you want at this point is to Google the YouTube video of the down and dirty isolation fault test this should bring you to a video of a guy with a test meter who is taking out the orange plug of the HV battery touching one of the silver bolts that hold that plug assembly into the battery frame and then using the other lead to touch one of the bolts that goes through the battery frame and to the frame of the car in DC volts that should start counting down to zero the minute the leads are touching like stated above it'll count down and stop it 90 volts 40 volts whatever it is If it doesn't make zero your battery is not isolated from the rest of the car boom your code and that's the long and the short of it You can go get a scanner and do INF codes and all that other stuff and that's a wonderful thing but while you're waiting for a scanner that can do all that you can get a cheap test meter that goes to DC volts Google that video do that test if that test stops like I said above you need to go no further no worry for the INF code more or less You just proved the INF code is going to be the one that talks about the HV battery because you're standing at the HV battery running the down and dirty test that ends that discussion pretty much or you can wait and go round and round for a scanner absolutely you can I personally cannot I can't wait for that nonsense I have a test meter I also have the proper scanners now but still this avoids the scanning need for the most part If this thing tells you that it can't count down you're finished Open the battery up and you'll find the leak then you fix it buy a new battery play whack-a-mole all of that good stuff good luck.

 

This will only work if the P0AA6 problem is in the HV battery pack. This will not help you If the problem is in the inverter or the air conditioner compressor or the high voltage cables that run between these components.

 

Yes running the down and dirty test will tell you that it's right there at the battery won't it because everything else is turned off so if you're DC voltmeter can not count down to zero measuring from the battery to the frame of the car at the HV battery with the car off that's where that ends correct? So if it can't count down there your problem should be right there If it counts down to zero there and you still have the code obviously you need to be looking at the air conditioner and the other circuit which I think is usually the cables running from the battery up to the back of the inverter been a few people that have smoked those or something that's my point the down and dirty test will in fact tell you right then and there if it can't make it to zero that you should be looking right there where you're standing I believe that is correct so if it does count down to zero and beeps or whatever happens zero . Then I would think I'm good at this spot look in the other two common places.