Can you make your Gen2 last "forever"?

They're not, but... again applying the wisdom of those who went before us, there are still good reasons to look in Southern California and South Florida: Lots of direct flights, lots of sunshine (not just absence of salt) large populations sporting good car culture, lots of retirees selling off clean cars.

That doesn't mean you won't find great candidates in other places- it just means that for the price of one trip you'll get to see many more potential candidates if you happened to start your search in say, Los Angeles or Miami.

 

I would move to Florida to avoid salt, but Mrs b is a party pooper

 

That's not the only option. I'd say a good job of undercoating is worth it.

 

Maybe compromise & move to Virginia.
Although that map lists Virginia as in the "salt belt" i have had no issues in south central Virginia. I even have a 2000 Tundra that was recalled due to premature rusting but have had zero issues with ours.

 

For my money, undercoating is great- if you put it on the car before any salt exposure. That alone can add 2 years. Repeat the undercoating again in a year or two, that might get you two more. After that it is diminishing returns.

Rust plays a slow game, and it hasn't lost yet.

 

see post # 15
Can you make your Gen2 last "forever"? | PriusChat
and it's attachment
https://attachments.priuschat.com/attachment-files/2025/02/263990_04-1.jpg


I've had a similar hole in the spare tire well thing, that I kept working on for a couple of years since it was the daily driver. There was a leak in the trunk of a 90s Dodge that I'd taken to a body shop and after multiple returns because the trunk still leaked the body shop gave up after their 5th try - iirc -. I found the leak a couple years later, that snaked around from the trunk lid drainage channels and S turned around the rear tail light and trickled into the trunk. But by than there was a rust hole under the spare. I was in the process of fixing the hole with a salvaged piece I cut off a donor.
The car also had rusting brake lines, even though they and all of the undercarriage had been ziebart coated.
What a mess. Finally the the lines started leaking before I'd figured out if I should fix them just to save the ole girl.
I had an even older 70s Dodge that I'd fixed a leak in the rear window after two tries at reseating the window.
On the second attempt, I was lucky enough to seat the rear window on the cleaned window frame and found the reason for the leak. The lower right corner of the window frame was bent just enough toward the cabin to make the seal leak. After I found the problem it was an easy fix from there. Much the same as fixing the trunk leak behind the 90s Dodge taillight fixture.

Hey if you have 40 grand and want to save a Gen 2, go for it. It doesn't matter what all of us think about a project like you are thinking about. It only matters what you want to gain by dropping 40k on a Gen 2 with hight hopes of Prius Camping and saving at the pump.

 

VA Good just not mountains

 

I was raised during all the rustproofing craze ziebart rusty Jones etc . I've never seen it work at all . Even being done at the dealership before the car ever went out the door didn't work. . I was in the heart of New England during those times .

 

I see gen twos from up North in mint condition . Because they garaged most of winter . They in the yucky truck all winter . Smart folks.

 

I'm sure you can make any vehicle run forever, if you keep repairing it. I once saw a package delivery recently in a '68 Ford van. I suppose it might be worthwhile, if you can keep getting reasonably priced parts and do your own work.

 

Best thing for longevity is to keep it garaged.
You don't preemptively replace most stuff, you just replace when something is broken or worn out. Prius are very low maintenance. One thing you can do is replace all the fluids at 100,000 to 125,000 intervals. This is sooner than recommended but will extend life.
There was an Acura Integra with 1 million miles, it had 9 timing belts and 4 clutches replaced. It was a long distance courier car. I've seen Prius taxis with 350K. If you garaged and replace the big battery it should last longer than you do.

 

Easily it's outdoors that kills all ozone UV all of it so dark garage go and return .

 

Preemptive repair depends on the risk when something fails.

Late last year I preemptively had the timing belt replaced on my 2000 Toyota Tundra due to the age of the rubber. A failure could leave me stranded and kill the engine. I viewed the repair as cheap insurance.

 

If it's interference engine that's correct my 1mz and my van is not they can just break on the highway Slap a belt on and go

 

replacing the timing belt involves draining the coolant and removing the timing belt cover. I am not referring to the external serpentine belt, but the belt keeping valves & pistons in time.newer cars tend to use timing chains instead of belts.

 

I had seen it suggested somewhere that timing belts were chiefly used on non-interference engines, chains on interference ones. Comforting if true.

 

Heard that too, from a member* here. Tried it, worked for me. I think the key is DIY: you can't pay someone to do this right, it'll get too expensive.

I dealt with it one end at a time, raise with floor jack, settle onto safety stands, take off any readily accessible underpanels, and the wheels, and work carefully. Not sure it has to be done before rust starts. My strategy was the opposite, to see where the rust is, loosely brush it off, and brush on boiled linseed oil.

Revisiting every 4~5 years, it's held up good.

* I think it was @tvpierce, but not sure. (not sure if I've got the name right either)

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