Possible replacement EGR cooler

EGR valve is separate about 128 bux new. The cooler I'm not sure what new would cost usually tanked at machine shop makes it new again .

 

What . Sir it all comes in pieces I've it sitting right here apart like a couple 10mm . Cooler gets tanked to clean like new EGR valve has a newer updated part . So it gets replaced for the cost I stated . This is all normal repair stuff for this model . No secrets . You can see you tube videos for weeks of watching for gen3 engine nonsense. I promise it's two pieces . You buy and EGR valve their won't be a cooler in sight of that box unless it's the one from you're engine.

 

EBay and salvage yard buys may be a valve/cooler combo.

 

It's just a radiator for EGR gasses just gets tanked all the crap come out and flow HG is restored . The valve on other hand is a bit more complicated. They go in trash at salvage yard generally.

 

Forgive the silly question but why not just clean the cooler and valve that are already in your car?
Especially since you have to take them out in the first place????

I've seen several videos where people have used oven cleaner to clean out the deposits and I have read posts from drive-by engineers and technicians that warn this will destroy the whole car.

Me?
I'd give it a go - especially since you're thinking of just replacing the parts anyway.......

 

gen3-egr-cooler

price is kind of negotiable.... /

 

You can buy new egr coolers for less than $160 on ebay and even less on some of the Asian sites.
NEW OEM GENUINE TOYOTA 10-15 PRIUS | 10-17 CT200h EGR W/COOLER PIPE 25601-37010 | eBay

Starcaller's 85k mile cooler looks pretty clean. Most used are more clogged and come from high mile junked cars.

You don't want to buy the $94 aftermarket egr valve. If you have a 2010-12 Prius, the new revised egr valve may be worth another $150 as the early versions were prone to sticking. Otherwise just clean the 2013-15 valve.

 

An egr cooler out of a high mile oil burner (common) will be completely clogged from one end to another with a tar that can be as solid as epoxy. In those cases chemical and power washer methods are only a final step after the multiple small passages are mechanically cleared first. Which can be tough with a rotating wire on the end of a drill.

If the used cooler looks like this (Starcaller's) you have a chance of chemical cleaning.



Or you may get this


The odds are your original cooler is not throwing a code and looks more like the first.

Personally I used a new cooler the first time and spent days cleaning the original clogged cooler that did throw a code. The second time at 300k miles I used the cleaned cooler.

 

If you cork* one end of the cooler, fill it with strong lye solution, a few hours soaking with periodic rinse and refill (while you do other related chores), it’ll be clean.

* smaller of the two end orifices is ~21mm ID, suitable for #4 stopper.

I’ve yet to use lye solution personally, will give it a try next time (if there is a next time). I’ve used a solution of Oxi-Clean Versatile Stain Remover in past, very mild, but is effective on light buildup, and about five hour long soak and rinse cycle.

 

I've one sitting here that still has a blob of crap in the middle of it that nothing can get out Ive not has it tanked as I had others that flowed. If I depended on it being correct if let me buddy tank it at the shop . But if bottom fasteners off you should be able to pull it quickly as needed.

 

Just do that any time, in advance, and remove the stud there as well (with e8 socket). It can be done without any other removal of parts, and left off permanently..

With the cooler lower bracket's nut and stud off, you can then leave on the rearmost pair of studs (at connection to exhaust manifold), and still remove the cooler. This saves time, hassle, AND keeps the rear gasket aligned and in place. Otherwise it has a propensity to fall down, never to be located.

 

First, your low mile original is probably more like Mendel's and others who use chemicals. I would clean it in an hour and put it back in.

A totally clogged example needs wire on a drill starting with shorter wires progressing to longer so you can see a glimmer of light after drilling the curved channels. Then use your choice of chemicals or better yet take it to a shop's parts washer.