Replacement OEM hybrid battery going bad after only 2+ years??

those don't sound like battery symptoms, try an auto parts store for a free scan, and see what they come up with.
it would not be common for an oem battery, but very common for aftermarket.
which is it?

 

i edited mine as well. the dealer should refund the $200. if it is the battery, ask them.
but try my recommendation above first.

 

it depends, some codes are stored and some are not. dr. prius is fine if you want to make the investment, or you can get a full prius reader for around $60. i think. i will look for the link.

 

here it is:autel-maxi-ap200-go-buy-this.232861

 

The dashboard (combination meter) on gen2s have been known to go bad. There are aftermarket repair services available or even diy but diagnosis with codes comes first.

Most auto supply scanners can't read hybrid codes.

 

most likely a brake system pressure issue.

 

Yes, that is the correct one.

 

Not meant to freak you out, but your symptoms match.
Put your car in READY and wait for the engine to do its warmup and then shut off.
Press the brake pedal a couple times and listen for a loudish but not loud humming noise coming from the other side of the firewall. You may need to do it a few times to get used ID-ing the noise. That is your brake actuator assembly (motor) pumping up the pressure in your brake fluid accumulator. Once you hear it start running, release the brake and don't pump it anymore. The pump should run within ~ 3-4 pumps of the brake pedal, it should run for a few seconds and then turn off. It should then stay off for hours if in good condition and the brakes are not pressed. If you hear it start again, then you have leakage in the system. This leakage is internal to the assembly and does not result in drips, just loss of pressure in the accumulator. This usually results in the actuator running about every 10-15 seconds to raise pressure, even if you don't press the brakes. Sometimes, it takes too long to raise the pressure, hence the loud beep, etc. Once pressure reaches minimum, the beep stops, etc.

If you calms you any, I have a 2007 in the family that's been driven for the last 3 years with the same exact symptoms and it's still going strong. Actuator cycles every 9 seconds, for 3 years and about 40k miles so far. The beep happens about once every week or two. I just haven't gotten around to insisting on it being replaced

 

That ap200 will test everything you need to test and probably more than you want to so just wait to get load up software choose Toyoda as primary. And let it rip. If what you receive is red white and black and not all white Apple looking send it back it should look like picture above.

 

I don't know for certain. I've never used it.

Now for the good news!!! I received a message this morning that it happened again on the 2007 when the car was started for going to work. I'm having them get the car over to the house this evening so I can connect my techstream computer. I'll get a list of any codes that may have popped up, just for you, so you'll have something to compare to!!

 

About three 3:50 for a used part. And around 500 labour