Parasitic aux battery drain

It is not outrageously high, although it is still 20-30 mA higher than it should be.

This would indicate to me that your battery has seen better days. A proper load test will confirm. If your battery test is okay, you might have some a/m accessory that is always on, drawing those few mA.

If your key fob is more than 3 yards away from the car, then you are not waiting long enough for the car to completely quiesce.

 

"Proper" being the key word.
My Harbor Freight (cheapo) digital battery tester showed my lawn tractor battery was good, but it failed to start even after being on a battery maintainer. Not sure if all digital units are like that.

 

Just curious, do you know how old it is?

 

Yeah, that's not right.

 

@djimbuser is 57 milliamps what you measured? If you haven't, in a nutshell:

Disconnect 12 volt battery's negative connection, run wires from the negative post and car body out over hatch threshold and gently close the hatch on them. Wait 20~30 minutes, with fobs well away from car, then connect a mutimeter set to amps to the ends of those two wires. Set the meter to amps first (just in case draw is massive), then if nothing indicated, switch to milliamps.

If you're getting high readings, try pulling fuses one at a time, see if any of them drop it, say to the aforementioned 20~30 milliamps.

^ Ignore, For starters, see you have taken readings. And @rjparker is more on the ball.

 

Wrong

Your parasitic draw is 160 ma not 55 or 57 ma. This is killing your battery in four days.

This is where your problem is being feed from so if you want to diy this you have to trace all loads and inputs fed by the Dome fuse. To do so requires accurate wiring diagrams, theory of operation of connected ecus and good test techniques.

Good test techniques include use of a series connected amp meter with everything off and all doors and hatches closed. Simply have lights out is not enough as ecu can stay awake. Do not rely on a dc clamp meter in these ma ranges.

Good information shows where the Dome fuse connects to the Combination Meter and Body Ecus. One of these could be staying on. Good theory of operation helps determine which output from those ecus is fed by the Dome fuse. However in many cases of corrosion or failing ecus it may be necessary to measure individual connections.

With that said a low capacity battery could discharge faster. Low cost load testers put a low load on for split seconds and try to extrapolate what a large load over extended time would do. Better load testers are closer to old school units with big power resistor loads.

Finally, aftermarket accessories like radios, gps and obd2 devices often cause issues.

 

Agree, my oversight.