Buying a HV battery from doctorprius.com

Here is my update too. It has been 11 months and 8000 miles since Doctorprius.com rebuilt my battery and still runs strong. MPG also remains high at 42 as it used be years ago. The last couple of years before the repair was creeping down close to 38.

Of course after 15 years there is always something. I noticed last week that the water pump is leaking from the weep hole. I had replaced the water pump in 2011 at 55k with a cardone pump with lifetime warranty from Rockauto. I hope lifetime means lifetime and they will still honor the warranty 10 years later and 95k miles later.

 

Were the repair manuals (linked above) not useful, or was the link broken?

First I swapped the fuel injectors for a mix matched pair off ebay, cost $23 total. That worked for awhile, maybe 500 miles.

Then installed a new Denso/OEM upstream A/F sensor, the p0420 went away for about 800 miles, until I filled it with 85 octane.

You might try cleaning the MAF / throttle body, then disconnect the 12v for a couple of minutes, so the ECU can remap.

Given your location, I would remove and sell ($$$$) that old cat in a heart beat, then toss in another new cat for $130+

Then buy a new OEM A/F sensor, as they don't last forever.

 

A P0420 can be caused by; 1)an exhaust leak (even a really small one) any where near or "upstream" of the downstream oxygen sensor. On an original exhaust system that is usually due to a worn gasket at the spring bolt flex connection at the exhaust manifold. 2)a faulty air fuel or oxygen sensor or 3) a bad catalytic converter.

If it has a leak at the gasket it may only show up when driving the car as the engine shifts under accel/decel loading. The only replacement gasket that I have found to fit and seal properly is the OE part from Toyota.

You can do a decent test of the air fuel (A/F) and oxygen (O2) sensors with techstream. Get the engine warmed up and then graph the two sensors. Perform a heavy (pedal to the floor) acceleration then coast/decel until the engine shuts off. At normal cruise with the ICE running steady, the A/F should fluctuate around 3.3V while the O2 is usually around 0.6 to 0.7V(if the cat is hot and functional- otherwise it will be something from 0 to 1V). On hard accel I expect the system to go "rich", with A/F going down to 2.3V or lower, and O2 reaching 0.9 to 1.0V. During fuel shutdown A/F goes up to 5.0V and O2 drops- 0.1 to 0.0V.

The cat itself could be bad; the two things most likely to kill it are driving the car with an engine misfire, or having an engine that burns or consumes oil.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Just an update on my battery, 20k miles and 21 months later battery still working fine.

 

They are supposed to be new cells. I just bought this battery used. And the guy said he paid for new cells. 3 years ago. I'm hearing they're not new cells. So if there's not new cells. Somebody's lying to somebody

 

Besides "someone said", is there any proof that the company should have installed new modules?
They may be new for this battery but old for the one they were removed from.

 

Owner swores up and down, rebuilt with new cells

 

The panasonic prismatic cells are not sold to the general public or random 3rd party businesses.

No one sells a new prius battery with new panasonic cells except.......... Toyota.

 

there are only aftermarket 'new cells', although someone could buy a whole battery, break it down and sell off the parts if it was financially worthwhile, or to help others.