My flat top two ton Walmart Hyper Tough trolley jack conversion

Over the past 20 years, I have owned ad replaced three Harbor Freight 1.5 ton aluminum racing jacks.

The first one weighed 23 pounds, the second; 29 pounds, and the last; 33 pounds. It seems that over the years more parts were replaced with steel.

All were bulky and even with the side handle, awkward to carry around.

None lasted more than 3-5 years.

I finally had enough and purchased cheap Walmart steel Hyper Tough two ton steel trolley jacks in the $30-$42 range. Amazingly, they way only 18 pound each and had an extra 1/2 ton rated capacity.

The top one hand carrying handle made them easy to carry around.

The only issue with these jacks is the small swivel cup saddle.

Finally, I had enough and converted them to a flat top saddle, by removing the saddle and cutting and grinding the cup flat.

To which, I machined and added a flat top aluminum adapter showing in the following pictures;

 

I've improved the original version that attaches with only a "hair pin" type clip.

 

Over the past 20 years, I have owned and used three of the Harbor Freight 1.5 ton "Aluminum" racing jacks.

None have survived to this day. Now, I own three of these Walmart Hyper Tough currently $42 two ton trolley jacks.

Hyper Tough T82011W Trolley Jack, Work for Sedan and Coupe, 2 Ton Black - Walmart.com

Over the years, the HF "aluminum" jack grew from 23 pounds to 33 pounds as they replaced the more expensive aluminum components more and more with steel pieces.

While the jacks had a side handle that was awkward to carry, I usually cradled the bottom with my left hand and held the long handle with my right hand. I was always a struggle with the larger size.

Over the years all leaked and failed with 3-5 years.

Six years, ago, I decided to purchase the Walmart Hyper Tough two ton trolley jack and found it to be an amazing only 18 pounds and compact enough to carry like a suitcase with the plastic top handle while holding the jack handle in my right hand.

The only issue I had was the small hard steel swiveling jack point.

Eventually, I removed the swivel cup and discarded it. Still, it was not very usable. I missed the flat top platform of the HF jacks.

Eventually, I developed and manufactured an easy "flat top" replacement, that is easily attached with a "hair pin clip".

Now the jack is absolutely the best replacement for the Harbor Freight jack.

I have uploaded photos of this modification and how it works with my Lexus-Toyota custom UHMW Spectra pinch weld adapter.

 

Rhino Ramps are know to slip and split when used. I've owned and used three sets of them over the years.

Race Ramps, although in the $200 range are the best available. I purchased a set in 2012 and they have held up well.

There is a vendor called EVANNEX that sells a version for $124 delivered. They are almost obviously made for their brand by Race Ramps.

Schwaben 30" Car Ramps for EV Owners – EVANNEX Aftermarket Tesla Accessories

Another plus from purchasing from them is a $10 discount on your first purchase by giving them your email.

 

I have one of those Walmart jacks that I bought in 2016. 3 years, ago, the main hydraulic ram developed a slow leak.

I immediately changed the oil. The leak disappeared. Apparently, there was debris from the original machining that was not fully cleaned out. There was just a rubber plug that needed to be pried out to access the oil reservoir.

That happened also with the Harbor Freight jacks. Changing the oil was very complicated complicated. Eventually, especially with the dual pump ones that had double the ability to fail.

Eventually, I had to take all of the HF aluminum jacks to the recycled.

The original 10 year old Walmart jack still sits in the compartment under the access floor of the luggage compartment of my old Prius v.

 

I agree. Simple and cheap is best. I keep on making and improving mods by making them inexpensive and easier to install and use.

 

The front center jack point on TNGA Toyota vehicles of witch Gen 4 and Gen 5 Prius models are, is in effect useless.

The best solution for these generations is to use ramps if the front tires need not be removed.

In the case that the wheel need to removed, it's best to use jack stands at the Toyota specified pinch weld support points.

Jacking, I've found, can be safely done to the inboard side on the rail of the Toyota specified pinch weld point.

I have the Bendpak Quickjack, Rennstands and the VKRP Safe Stands in my inventory and makes special jacking adapters for all of them.

The methods I propose in above are the least expensive and are also the easiest to use to achieve the desired results.