12V battery maintenance for dummies when gone for weeks

Discussion in 'Gen 5 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Girl__wonder, Jan 4, 2026.

  1. Girl__wonder

    Girl__wonder Junior Member

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    @Mendel Leisk and @Pdog808 thank you!

    @bisco thanks. You're right. When I pulled into Auto Zone today, an employee had just finished checking someone's battery. He then helped me. Walking in, I saw a different employee checking someone else's car. lol. It's battery day at Auto Zone.

    I had intended to buy the Noco Genius 1 there, but the website was wrong (they didn't have one in stock) so I've ordered that and the Solar BA9 charger from Amazon and will get them tomorrow. I'm curious now. The Auto Zone battery tester didn't show CCA but said my charge is now 32%. I didn't drive at all last week. My normal driving is not helping (mostly short trips around town) but I'm surprised this is even lower than the 61% charge and 73 CCA when the car sat for 6 weeks. (the AAA display, photo above. BTW, the AAA guy did not connect to the battery directly but under the hood. And his display shows the battery specs at 350 CCA, not 285 CCA).

    I had a 2006 Prius (and other cars) and never had this problem, so this is frustrating. Is there a definitive list of things to be mindful of related to the parasitic drain? I read some of long chat thread, which is a discussion (key fob bad or not?), but I'm wondering if someone compiled a definite list. thanks
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  2. BiomedO1

    BiomedO1 Senior Member

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    This is why I don't like these newer algorithmic battery scanners. I consider them random number generators, made for gen-z that can't use their brain.
    The AAA test was OFF because it had the wrong CCA, so it showed only 73 CCA available. Don't know why a battery with only 73 CCA would be considered a passing grade. That would barely start a small engine on a 30F day. If it was a 6 or 8 cylinder, you would be walking.
    That Autozone tester seems to be a bit better, but not knowing it's internal algorithm - I can't really say how accurate it really is.

    I'm a bit old fashion and prefer the brute force approach of a carbon pile resistance battery tester. The battery must be fully charged (SOC) in order to pass that test and since it's an analog display needle, you can make your own judgement - If it's good enough.

    The 2025 Prime has more electronics and does more readiness testing. If your fob is on the edge range of the car; it's going to perform more testing & preparedness thinking your getting ready to use the car. You'll need to drop your fob into a tin box or Faraday bag to cut-off the fob signal. Short hops in ready mode, probably isn't putting enough power into the battery vs power expended in between trips. That why we are recommending a trickle charger during downtime.
     
    #22 BiomedO1, Feb 5, 2026 at 11:57 PM
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2026 at 12:15 AM
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  3. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk MMX GEN III

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    typo? The Solar BA9 is a tester, not a charger.

    Our automotive usage has wound down to near-nil, literally once a week, albeit decent-length drives. Sometimes we’ve got obligations, and if not, and it’s sunny, there’s a lovely shoreline park about 12 kms distant for a picnic lunch*. All in, lucky to do 3k kms yearly.

    last battery I put in was September 2015. In between drives it’s constantly on a CTEK 4.3 amp smart charger (installed the CTEK quick-connect cable for convenience). With the Solar BA5 it tests like new. Which is a little crazy, a battery longevity record in my experience, and maybe testament to the downside of modern vehicle “phantom draw”.

    * did that drive yesterday:

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    #23 Mendel Leisk, Feb 6, 2026 at 8:15 AM
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2026 at 8:21 AM
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  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    Idk what 32% charge means. It seems awfully low. I thought they would do a voltage reading as well.
    I think you might need a charger as well, but I’m no expert
     
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  5. Girl__wonder

    Girl__wonder Junior Member

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    @Mendel Leisk you're right. Typo. BA9 tester. Gorgeous photo! BC is so beautiful!

    @BiomedO1 when the AAA display showed 73 CCA it also said that battery needed to be replaced. But it claimed 61% SoC. Thanks for mentioning the faraday boxes. I dug out my old Mission Darkness bag (which apparently no longer works) and ordered a new box. (the fobs are now sitting in a ziplock bag inside an olde school coffee percolator. works! lol)

    I made an appointment at the Toyota dealer tomorrow and briefly spoke to a service agent. He said that cars that are rarely driven, especially PIP, have problems holding a charge. But they'll check it out. I'm going to ask them to do a full charge and see if it will hold. I'll also ask about parasitic draws, maybe they can check for that. Anything else that you think I might want to ask? Below is my news/actions from Friday.

    On Friday my package from Amazon arrived, the NOCO Genius 1 and a TopDon tester (the Solar BA9 won't come until Sunday so I thought I'd start with this and return the one I don't want). Findings:
    1) 2pm first check, the 12V charge is 0, CCA 229 (Thurs @ 4pm AutoZone tester show SoC 32% and CCA "passed", whatever that means)
    2) 3pm driving for 35 minutes, the charge is 20%, CCA 176
    3) 7 pm a few hours later, charge is 0, CCA 182
    4) 9 pm charge is 0 and CCA is 260. After 7, I drove 10 minutes. Parked for an hour while I did something. Then I drove 45 minutes on a freeway and checked it again. I can't believe that the charge would be 0 after driving so long.

    Possible problem: Between 3 and 6ish I connected the NOCO Genius 1. I made a mistake. I couldn't figure out which type of battery it is (not in the manual) so I googled and a chatbot said it is a flooded lead-acid type. (it referenced priuschat and larryhmillertoyota.com). Since then, I looked at the label on the battery itself and saw "345LN1-MF" which I think means it's an AGM battery. So I charged the battery using flooded 12V mode instead of 12V AGM mode, 1 amp for about three hours. oops. Not sure if I wrecked the battery completely. (?) It wasn't holding a charge though on Thursday night before I intervened. Thanks for your help!

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    #25 Girl__wonder, Feb 7, 2026 at 3:37 PM
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2026 at 3:48 PM
  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk MMX GEN III

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    According to my CTEK charger, choosing regular vs AGM mode simply bumps the charging voltage, with the AGM. Also, it recommends to only that only with "spiral wound" style AGM (the ones that look like canned beer 6-packs). So, I'd say no harm, just using regular mode, at most it might not charge quite as fully.


    Googling, AI says the gen 2 OEM battery is rated 325 CCA. That sounds right, and it is the case for gen 3 as well. The "RATED: 285 CCA" on your TopDon's display, did you enter it (say based on a label on the battery), or did the scanner come up with that. At any rate: the as-tested CCA it's display don't look good. A typical battery in good health will in my experience display higher than spec'd CCA, which I'd suspect is aforementioned 325. In your shoes, I'd be replacing it.

    "CHARGE= 0% 11.94V" I would gather is the voltage it measured is 11.94, and it's really in need of charging. When the Solar BA9 arrives I think you'll find it simpler but more to the point: it'll display as-tested CCA and VOLTS, toggling between the two, and give a verdict: pass, pass-but-charge, and fail (words to that effect).
     
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  7. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    Depending on the SOC of the battery, it could take as many as 40 hours of charging with the NOCO 1 amp charger to full charge the battery. Try charging for 12 hours and do another test.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  8. BiomedO1

    BiomedO1 Senior Member

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    Yes, anytime it does self-diagnostic; your losing ground on the battery charge. Out of the 1A charger, your battery is only going to see 0.95A max; because the car electronics draws around 0.05A nominal - while in deep sleep.
    My gen4 battery hovers around 12V and if I catch it below 11.5V it gets a few hours on a 6A charger. I'm usually good for another 6-12 months after that. I'm usually checking the battery during the winter months; but my winters are pretty moderate. Old habits from living in the deep freeze zones. Still on my original OEM battery and has never needed a jump. I never had this issue, before I retired, when it was a daily driver on a 40 mile round trip commute.

    Hope this helps.....
     
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  9. Girl__wonder

    Girl__wonder Junior Member

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    @Mendel Leisk, thanks for all this info especially charging AGM in regular mode. When I googled about that, info was all over the map. I did enter the 285 CCA manually on the Topdon, per the label on my battery (photo posted beneath the AutoZone tester on Thursday). FWIW, when the dealer charged it after the Thanksgiving dead battery incident, they measured 286 CCC for the 285 rated battery. (so higher but just barely)

    The voltage number appears on the Topdon when you first connect it to the battery, there's like a "home page" with that number. But it kept fluctuating between slightly different numbers. Maybe it's hard for the device to function when the charge is so low.

    Do you know, are they any magic words to get the dealer to replace the battery? It's one year old. When I reviewed the warranty booklet, it seems like it falls into the 3-year range. The service advisers keep saying batteries do this if you don't drive them often, but I'd had similar driving patterns with the 2006 prius for at least the past 5 years without incident (I replaced the 12V once in the 19 years I had it, maybe 12-13 years in. I can't remember, but definitely not in the last years when I was not driving much, including during the pandemic!)
     
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  10. Girl__wonder

    Girl__wonder Junior Member

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    @Brian1954 good to know. thanks. I'm taking it to the dealer tomorrow, so I'll see what happens there. But thanks for this tip. I may upgrade to the NOCO 10.
     
  11. Girl__wonder

    Girl__wonder Junior Member

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    @BiomedO1 thanks. Yeah, I wondered how much power the testers were drawing out of the ailing battery. But I was surprised that I had the 1 amp charger on there for 3 hours and the SoC went from 20% to 0%. I made a point to close the hatch (so the dome light wasn't on).

    I guess the lack of driving is the issue but I didn't have this problem with my 2006 Prius, and I had similar driving patterns probably the last 5 years. So I guess this means for me....that I must have really damaged the battery letting it sit for 6 weeks (with a friend driving it around the block once) and now my limited driving is becoming more of an issue.
     
  12. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk MMX GEN III

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    Per @Brian1954: 1 amp charger is pretty puny, 4~5 amps is more suitable. I’d think 1 amp will “eventually” charge it fully, if it’s possible, but it’s going to take a long time. More suited for maintaining a battery in good shape.
     
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  13. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    The OP purchased the NOCO 1 amp charger. Yes, it will take a very long time to charge the battery. That was the reason for my post #27 stating that it could take 40 hours to charge the battery. The OP stated that the charger was used for 3 hours, which will not charge the battery very much. The OP could buy the NOCO 5 amp charger, which will shorten the charging time from 40 hours down to 8 hours. I would not advise the OP to buy a 10 amp charger like she is talking about in post #30.
     
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  14. Girl__wonder

    Girl__wonder Junior Member

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    Thanks Brian for this clarification. Yeah, the NOCO 1 was inexpensive but really really slow. thanks!
     
  15. Girl__wonder

    Girl__wonder Junior Member

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    Hi everyone, I got a new battery from the dealer (under warranty) and it’s even an upgraded one. Thank you!!!!

    When I met with the service advisor, I showed him the photos from the AutoZone and Topdon testers. He was skeptical about the accuracy of these devices (their tester costs thousands of $$$), but professional. He admitted the numbers looked off, especially that the CCA and SoC were moving in opposite directions. He also said that since the AAA guy had entered the wrong CCA (back in Nov), those results were meaningless. (doesn’t matter now, the dealer charged it back in Nov)

    Anyway, yesterday the battery failed their load test. The service advisor’s opinion is that the Nov failure was due to it sitting for 6 weeks and only driven once, briefly. But he said this current issue showed a defective battery. It happens.

    Going forward, his opinion is that I don’t need to worry about using a charger or tester—just drive continuously ½ hr once a week. (a couple short trips with stopping won’t work, since starting the car draws so much from the battery). If I take a 3-week vacation, say, have someone drive it ½ hr mid-trip.

    It was a slow day (who takes their car in on Superbowl Sunday?) so I talked to the parts guys about testers and chargers. Again, they can’t comment on these low-cost testers. He also thought I should just drive it, but said if I was really worried, a battery maintainer could be a good idea and just leave it on all the time. That’s what he does with the motorcycle he rarely drives. He thinks the NOCO 10 might be overkill for just maintaining a battery but admitted he uses a 10 amp one on his motorcycle.

    Parasitic draw: his opinion is that you can’t really reduce the background draw. Using a faraday box/bag won’t help. Even if the key is out of range, the car will still send a signal looking for it. Same with the phone apps. Even if I delete the app, the car will still be signaling. Not sure if this is true that you can't reduce the draw, but FYI. He did said people on these chat boards sometimes know more than they do. Lol.

    The bonus that I discovered is that the new battery is 470 CCA. When I pointed this out to the parts guy he said it was an upgraded battery and that is has more “dead range.” (after it’s “dead,” there’s more a buffer of charge?). It’s also AGM, though it’s not labeled, but he showed me the breather on the left side.

    So this current issue is put to rest – thank you! I’m going to consider whether the keep a tester and charger, or just be mindful about driving it, but I have a few weeks before I need to return anything. (the Solar BA9 tester arrived last night, after I picked up the car from the dealer.) Thanks again for your help! (and if you have other thoughts, let me know) Thank you all!!!!

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  16. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    I would keep the NOCO 1 amp smart charger to maintain the new battery when you are not driving the car. That new 12v battery should last 10 years if you use the NOCO 1 when you are not driving the car.

    You would not need anyone to drive your car when you are away if the NOCO 1 is used.
     
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  17. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk MMX GEN III

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    Look into under the hood quick connects. Noco may make one. You can wire it under the hood, the positive lead to the 12 incoming 12 volt cable at the fusebox, just hitchhiking on the that cable's end connector. The negative lead to a grounded bolt or bracket. They usually will have an inline fuse on the positive lead.

    I've done that with our 3rd gen (with CTEK quick-connect harness), just leave it tucked in the corner of engine compartment, and to connect to the charger, pop and raise the hood, connect, then lower the hood on it, just partially latched. This is in a secure garage. Out in a driveway you may need more security, and the best for that application would be an on-board charger, just run it's power cord out through the grill, similar to a block heater.

    Running the quick connect out through the grill is a little risky: if it get's soaked, or some joker puts a paper clip between the positive and negative pins, it'll be shorting the battery. With an online fuse that shouldn't happen, but who knows.