Fred: We met in the ABS problem thread. Just picked prius up today. Yippie. So, I'm Not sure If I'm posting this in correct place but I'm trying to follow your suggestion about posting my fireplace question in a different thread. Here was post: "Anyway, Thanks for the help. Now,,, if only someone could help me with my indoor fireplace insert. Pilot working but not lighting big burner. Double hooded pilot is lighting; I've cleaned the flame sensor with steel wool but still not lighting. Grrrrr....service wait is 3 weeks. Yes, I've learned my lesson to check fire place earlier in the season before service schedules fill up. Anyway, Thanks for the help." And your response send to Fred with Pic of controls. Did this find the right Fred? Here are the pic.
I'm not Fred, but I did pick up, from somewhere, long ago, that the grounding of the metal surfaces near the pilot flame and sensor rod is just as important as the cleanliness of the sensor rod itself. I probably picked that up from reading an article like this one: Flame Rectification Explained | HVAC Know It All The flame is detected thanks to the flame making an ionized path for current to flow between the sensor rod and nearby grounded metal. From your photos, I'm not totally sure I can guess the design of your burner. I see two rods bent toward the hooded pilot burner. I'm not sure if they're both for flame sensing, or for ignition, or something else. Is there a standing pilot (when the hooded pilot flame is off)? Or is the hooded pilot ignited by a spark? Anyway, the troubleshooting ideas in the article above might help. I don't know that there really is any Fred. This forum is his house of pancakes, but I think that's just for it to have a name.
Hi: i'm confused by "I'm not Fred, but I did pick up, from somewhere, long ago, that the grounding of the metal surfaces near the pilot flame and sensor rod is just as important as the cleanliness of the sensor rod itself. I probably picked that up from reading an article like this one" The flame is detected thanks to the flame making an ionized path for current to flow between the sensor rod and nearby grounded metal. From your photos, I'm not totally sure I can guess the design of your burner. I see two rods bent toward the hooded pilot burner. I'm not sure if they're both for flame sensing, or for ignition, or something else. Is there a standing pilot (when the hooded pilot flame is off)? Or is the hooded pilot ignited by a spark? Anyway, the troubleshooting ideas in the article above might help. I don't know that there really is any Fred. This forum is his house of pancakes, but I think that's just for it to have a name. Hi; Thanks for your reply. I'm confused by the Fred thing....but ok! I read the link. Good stuff. To answer your question: the pilot is "An intermittent pilot (or "intelligent pilot") system for a fireplace or appliance ignites a pilot flame only when a call for heat is received, saving energy compared to a standing pilot light that burns continuously. The pilot lights with an electric spark, ignites the main burner, and then goes out once the appliance is turned off or the thermostat setting is met." So, when I turn on the switch by the fireplace for it to light, one of the metal bars clicks and then ignites the hooded pilot. But, the main burner is not coming on. I've cleaned the flame sensor a couple times, Maybe the signal isn't being properly switched to the proper current change. ( see I read info in link. ) Thanks again. All you Freds rock!
Maybe you could take a few more pictures, or a video? I saw two metal rods there, one either side of the pilot hood. While they look very similar, is one of them the spark source and the other the flame sensor you say you've cleaned? Or are both of those rods involved in the spark ignition and the flame sensor somewhere else your pics haven't shown? How clean and well-grounded is the surrounding metal near where the pilot and flame rod are? The flame sensor works because the ionized gas in the flame can conduct current between the flame rod and the nearby clean grounded metal that's also within the flame.
Hello Chapman, F. Thx for reply. Service guy was out today. It was a stuck valve. What a huge blessing when he said no charge. WOW!!!!!! Can you believer it?????? I'm so Grateful! Until next time. Thank you and safe roads ahead!
Greetings with an update: ABS actuator replaced in Nov. '25, Oil change in Dec. '25. Sadly, in Feb'25 very rough idling with warning light: "Check Hybrid System" Codes read at Auto Zone: P0300, P0301, P0302 Car towed to shop that did ABS repair and quote says Head Gasket leak. (Confirmed Cylinder # 1 Has Coolant Dripping Into Cylinder.) WHAT???? & whopping estimate of $4000... plus more $ if rod bent. You know me..... getting educated & Quick search says could be abs repair not seated properly. ( remember that was done 2 months prior: been out of town 3 weeks and car wasn't driven much. Suggestion to see if leaking liquid is break fluid or coolant. Not sure how to do that.... don't want to challenge shop as I know this could be bad luck and timing. BUT....it is very frustrating to spend $2,000 in Nov on ABS and now this...... UGH. 191,000 miles: won't pay $4,000 at this point. Open to ideas and options. Thanks bundles.
Easy. You have a $5,000 car with a $4,000 repair estimate from a person who obviously does not want to do the work. Even if you got the HG replaced and the the intake cleaned at market price ($2000-2500) you'd still be looking at a 15 year-old car that's far enough along on the back nine to hear beer bottles opening at the clubhouse. AND - you live on free soil (ish) where gas prices do not justify spinning the wheel of misfortune with your cars. If you can afford to write a cheque for the repair bill now, I could almost see getting the car repaired and roadworthy and saving aggressively for a down money AND repairs to what comes next - but you've already said that you're not interested in doing that. Me? I'd junk the car, or part it out. If you're a down-market buyer, get a non-hybrid econobox as a replacement. Good Luck!
