Brake Booster Malfunction

I would just replace the master cylinder for $1300 or $1400 (you listed two different prices) and call it a day.

That installed price is decent assuming new parts; they may be getting a good Toyota discount on a pre-tariff part that could go away. Jump on it.

I don't understand why the pump costs $1800 installed, it is usually cheaper. Perhaps this part was hit with a tariff.

You could contact Toyota Corporate but it will be a waste of time on a 14 year old 190k car. Their 10 year 150k warranty on this system was already extended from the factory 3 year 36k mile warranty.

 

The main reason to replace both is because of cost. And it's very likely when one fails,
the other one is close behind.
There is a lot of work involved in removing each. So if you only replace one part, when the other
fails, you have to pay the labor, again. You may get lucky, and if you are willing to take that chance,
go for it.

 

The unit above has around a dozen little valves in it, nearly all of the possible points of failure for the typical "internal leakage" issue.

The unit below just has a lot less that's likely to go wrong.

If an internal leakage issue gets addressed quickly, anyway. Letting it go until the pump is making runs just seconds apart has a side effect of putting a whole lot of extra use on the pump and accumulator, so that can make it more prudent to replace that unit as well.

 

Thanks all! Helpful info indeed, especially the last reply. My take away is, get Brake booster replace & until then, drive sparingly even though we've been told ok to drive. Frankly, I think that is a bit odd that we're told we can drive it. Now, hoping the battery will last another year or two so we don't have that big expense. Is there any tell tail sign it is on its last leg? Anyway, Thanks for the help. Now,,, if only someone could help me with my indoor fireplace insert. Pilot working but not lighting big burner. Double hooded pilot is lighting; I've cleaned the flame sensor with steel wool but still not lighting. Grrrrr....service wait is 3 weeks. Yes, I've learned my lesson to check fire place earlier in the season before service schedules fill up. Anyway, Thanks for the help.

 

What does the control on the fireplace insert look like? (Maybe open a different thread, in Fred's.)

 

Hi; you guys are building my confidence. Thank you! Prius service update & Great idea and will add fireplace to Fred's thread. Car delievered and price & items needing service given..... Good news: still at $1,300 for ABS modulation unit replacement. Other items quoted: struts boot replacement: $570: ( told to prevent dirt contamination impacting strut replace need) If we plan to sell car w/in next year..I'm wondering about strut boot replacement? Thanks!

 

Greetings with an update:
ABS actuator replaced in Nov. '25, Oil change in Dec. '25.
Sadly, in Feb'25 very rough idling with warning light: "Check Hybrid System"
Codes read at Auto Zone: P0300, P0301, P0302
Car towed to shop that did ABS repair and quote says Head Gasket leak. (Confirmed Cylinder # 1 Has Coolant Dripping Into Cylinder.)
WHAT???? & whopping estimate of $4000... plus more $ if rod bent.
You know me..... getting educated & Quick search says could be abs repair not seated properly. ( remember that was done 2 months prior: been out of town 3 weeks and car wasn't driven much.
Suggestion to see if leaking liquid is break fluid or coolant.
Not sure how to do that.... don't want to challenge shop as I know this could be bad luck and timing. BUT....it is very frustrating to spend $2,000 in Nov on ABS and now this...... UGH. 191,000 miles: won't pay $4,000 at this point. Open to ideas and options. Thanks bundles.

 

Easy.
You have a $5,000 car with a $4,000 repair estimate from a person who obviously does not want to do the work.
Even if you got the HG replaced and the intake cleaned at market price ($2000-2500) you'd still be looking at a 15 year-old car that's far enough along on the back nine to hear beer bottles opening at the clubhouse.
AND - you live on free soil (ish) where gas prices do not justify spinning the wheel of misfortune with your cars.

If you can afford to write a cheque for the repair bill now, I could almost see getting the car repaired and roadworthy and saving aggressively for down money AND repairs to what comes next - but you've already said that you're not interested in doing that.

Me?
I'd junk the car, or part it out.
If you're a down-market buyer, get a non-hybrid econobox as a replacement.

Good Luck!

 

gen 3 is prone to both of these failures, so it is certainly a strong possibility

 

DO NOT challenge the shop's findings, because you WILL look foolish. Brake fluid lines don't even touch the engine. Have your brake fluid levels gone down, since the job? It's a very small amount of fluid, when compared to the 1.5 gallons of coolant required for that engine.

If you do decide to confront the repair shop, anyways - they will probably increase their repair estimates, because they'll realized that you know nothing about cars. As ETC(ss) stated; that's a high estimate for that job, shop around a bit or get another car. Preferably one that's cheaper and easier to fix.

Good Luck...

FWIW: Gasket Masters charges $1900 in expensive Ca for that job.
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