I think I found the source of my moderate speed vibration.

Did you pull it or pry it out?

 

From my toolbox.

You can buy brass drifts from most automotive tool suppliers or just type "brass drift" into google.

 

I have a 30mm impact socket and an impact wrench so that won't be a problem. I'm not going to pull the axle until the replacement part arrives on Tuesday so we will have to wait until then to see how hard it's will be.

 

Well, my replacement axle came in today.



It's a little rusty but that's OK. It from a low mileage car and has a lifetime warranty.



First step is to drain the tranny.



Then loosen the big 30mm nut BEFORE you remove the wheel.



Next unbolt the caliper from the knuckle and remove the rotor.



Now unhook the tie rod end and unbolt the ball joint.



Next I removed the speed sensor, pulled the ball joint out of the lower control arm, and then pulled the knuckle off of the axle.



Time to break out the big guns.



And poof! the axle is out.



There were tons of these needle bearings in the grease inside and outside of the inner boot.



The replacement axle popped in with no problem.



Here is the new axle in the hub with the ball joint reattached to the lower control arm.



And the tie rod end reattached.

I took it out for a quick drive and the vibration is gone. It seem that the damaged CV joint was all that was wrong.

 

Nope, the transmission end was squeaky clean. I wiped it down with ATF before I put it in the tranny. The threaded end was rust free also. I found it odd for the center section to be rusted but the threaded section to be so clean. It did come form a norther car so I guess rust is to be expected. My drivers side axle shaft is already starting to rust and it's been in the south all it's life.

 

I would say an hour and a half or so. It was not really that bad at all.

 

There is a crow foot attachment that screws to the end of the slide hammer and goes over the end of the inner CV joint. It looks like this:


I did not need to use a puller for the joints. The tie rod end popped out with minimal fuss and the ball joint only required unbolting from the lower control arm so I did not have to remove it from the knuckle. Your mileage may vary though since this is basically a new car and things really have not had time to "seize up" yet.