Center console light

DISCLAIMER: The following modifications, if done incorrectly, could cause damage to your car’s electrical system and other components. You may also void any warranties by Toyota or other 3rd party warranty companies by making these modifications. The author assumes no responsibilities for any modifications you do to your vehicle based on these instructions. These instructions only show how one person was able to make changes to modify an electrical sub-system and is not intended to be a sanctioned formula for others to follow. If you decide to do this modification, you do so at your own risk. There has been interest in adding center console lighting in Priuses similar to traditional American cars. It is possible but there is no kit from Toyota available so parts are needed from a couple of stores to perform this modification. If you are skilled at automotive electrical modifications, you should be able to do this. If you are a novice or don’t understand 12 volt automotive electrics, this might not be a project for you. Having some experience in these types of modifications, I would rate this upgrade as a 10 on a scale of 1 to 10 on difficulty. Allow yourself 2 days to complete the project. You can drive a Prius without the center console, if need be. Difficulty is due to: Removing, disassembling, modifying, and re-assembling the center console Understanding automotive wiring color codes Some wire fishing behind the dash Removing upper and side kick panels Removing lower left dash panel Tying into a main power cable behind dash Parts needed: 1 external license plate light by Optronics part # LP-31CS (purchased at Checker Automotive) 1 box of splice connectors 16 to 14 gauge by Doorman (purchased at Checker Automotive) 1 roller lever switch part #275-017A (Radio Shack) 2 machine screws approx. 1/2 inch long, locking washers and nuts (Ace Hardware). Actually these are metric stainless steel screws so bring the switch into Ace for assistance on the correct screws and nuts. Electrical spade connector (Ace Hardware) 8 feet of solid (not stranded) red thermostat or doorbell wire 18 gauge 1 foot of solid (not stranded) white thermostat or doorbell wire 18 gauge 2 feet of solid (not stranded) green thermostat or doorbell wire 18 gauge (optional) Heat shrink tubing (Radio Shack) Crimpable snap on connectors (Radio Shack) Tools needed: Small ratchet wrench set with extension and 10 mm socket Pliers (needle nose) Pry tool (see photo) Wire cutter Carpet knife Crimper Drill (portable) and drill set Screw drivers (Phillips, and small blade) Soldering gun (small), solder and flux Lighter Powerful flashlight Process: Remove center console: Open the top of the console and remove the secondary cup holder and the bottom black felt. It will reveal 4 bolts. Remove bolts with a ratchet wrench plus extension (10mm socket). There is a small curved plastic cover where the secondary cup holder sits. With a small screwdriver, gently pry it out and there is one more bolt revealed. Remove this bolt. The center console can be removed by pulling back and lifting up. Note: there is a wire harness underneath that needs to be disconnected to free the assembly. Put the console in a clean work area for disassembly and modification. Save all the bolts in a container. Disassemble center console: Do this in a clean area so as to not stain the cloth or mar the plastic panels. Invert the console and note several plastic clips that attach to the inner console body (black). Use a bent nail (shown in photo) that is slightly less than 90 degrees. The tip can be put under the clips and then pry upwards to free each clip. Start with the 2 that hold the back panel of the console. Also note several smaller plastic clips along the back panel that connect to the side panels. With a small bladed screwdriver, undo each one and pull gently away from the bottom. Once the visible clips are free, the rear panel should lift a bit towards the cover and then away. Note that there are 4 screws that hold the side panels securely behind the rear panel that are now exposed. Locate and remove each – save screws in a container. Next, free with the pry tool the underside clips that hold the side panels onto the black body. Open the top console cover and tip up all the way. Each side panel should lift up and away from the black inner body. Modify inner console body: Locate the driver’s side of the inner console – open the console top up. Locate small rubber bumper on driver’s side where the left console top “foot†lands. Remove by squeezing bottom white tab with pliers. This is where the new switch will go. From the top, use a 5/16 bit and drill a larger hole using the hole from the rubber foot as a pilot hole – slant towards the outer edge. With a carpet knife, enlarge the hole by cutting along the outer edge towards the front. Stop at the “bevel†in the ridge. Do the same for the inner side by starting at the new hole and cutting towards the front. Now carefully cut out the remaining plastic from end of the inner to the outer slit. Remove plastic and all burrs. Set console so driver’s side is up. Stage the new switch making sure the roller and metal tab move freely in the new hole (see picture). If any part of the switch binds, cut away more plastic until it can open and close freely (clicks) while it is held against the body. Measure up from the lower plastic ridge ¾ inch (see picture). This is where the mounting holes should go. Draw a line (pencil) and set the switch so the holes are over the line. Drill 2 holes thru the body plastic using the switch as a template (3/32 bit). Perform a mock-up test: put screws from inside console out thru switch and gently secure with nuts. The switch arm should still move freely (hear the clicks). Now close the console lid. The switch should click as the lid’s “foot†presses the roller and switch arm downward. Open the lid and the switch should click again as the arm springs back up. If this does not happen, enlarge the main hole. When this test is good, remove the switch. Now install the new light. Remove swing-up tray and measure 1 ½ inches down from top edge. This is where the screws for the light will go. Scribe a pencil line. Place light over the line and the mounting holes should be over the scribed line. Center the light in the well and drill holes for the mounting screws using new light as a template. Now depending on where the leads are for the light, drill a 5/16 inch hole for them to pass thru the back. Mount the light and reflector so the direction of light is towards the bottom of the console (see pictures). (Optional) If you want the 12 volt power outlet inside the console to be “always hot†meaning it is live even if the car is “off†then add the GREEN wire, otherwise leave it off. Cut 2 lengths of red wire 18 inches each. Cut one length of green wire (optional) 18 inches. Cut a 5 inch piece of white wire. Strip all wires (both ends) to 3/8 inch except leave one end of the white wire un-stripped. If you want to add the green wire, drill the hole in the switch terminal marked “C†larger to 5/64 inch. Now you can pass both a red wire and a green wire thru the terminal hole “Câ€. Otherwise, just pass a red wire thru existing terminal hole “Câ€. Now pass the other red stripped wire thru the terminal hole marked “NCâ€. Fold over wires on terminals, crimp with pliers and flux/solder the red (and optional green) wires to the terminals. Now take 1 inch lengths of heat shrink tubing, thread up the wires and cover the terminals. Bring a low flame under the tubing and when it shrinks, stop the flame. This will insulate your connections. Next, place the switch as shown in picture so the “C†terminal is towards the front. Put the screws back in place and begin to tighten them. Check as you go to be sure the clicks happen the same way as during your mock up tests. Adjust as necessary and then tighten nuts this time using lock washers. Do not over-tighten. Pull out the factory black cable from its groove. Route the red wire from the “C†terminal towards the front of the console in the groove. Do not trim it. Now route the green (optional) and red wire(s) toward the rear of the console in the groove. See picture and drill 1/8 inch hole(s) in honeycomb spaces shown. Route wire(s) thru holes. Press black cable over the wires you added and be sure it is securely in the groove. Put 1 inch heat shrink over both leads from new light. Put 1 inch heat shrink on green lead (optional). If using a green lead, now cut the factory green lead going to the power socket about 2 inches from the base of the power socket and strip the side towards the socket (again, optional). Twist the red lead to one of the leads from the new light. Twist the white wire to the other lead of the new light. Twist the green wires together (socket to new green wire). Flux and solder all connections. Bring heat shrink tubing over soldered connections and again, apply low flame under each until tubing shrinks over wires. Also, put some heat shrink tubing on the other end of the cut green wire (factory) and make sure its wire is covered. Apply heat to seal it. Get out of container one of the “guillotine†style splicers. The factory white wire from the base of the power socket goes into the outer slot. The new white wire goes about ½ way into the inner slot with the stop. Now press the blade down onto the wires and apply pressure with a pliers. Snap the splicer shut. Obtain a MALE (metal exposed) crimp-on connector from the package. Put the forward red stripped wire thru the backside and carefully crimp it so it is secure. All connections are now done for the console. Perform a mini-test as follows: using a 6 or 9 volt battery, hold the positive lead (red with exposed metal) onto the positive battery terminal. Using a short wire, fi