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I know the main one in the trunk and it needs to be a non finished bolt but where are the other chassis grounds for the wiring harness?
So I replaced 2 caps 10uf and the 100uf with a 220uf 35v Panasonic (both of them) - both of them read open I didn’t bother replacing the 330uf...
So the MFD powering up is dependent on the CM board operating nominally? iPhone ?
I’ve never see this code from my elm327. Will this require techstream? iPhone ?
It’s the MFD that is “offline” I thought it was the 12v but my 12v tested “good” but I replaced it anyway since it was 2017 battery from toyota so...
is there a definitive way to know short of removing the dashboard?
I’ve replaced the 12v with a factory fresh toyota true start I’ve also checked and replaced all the 7.5a blade fuses under the steering wheel...
a testament to the reliability of the smart key system but nonetheless, in the event it does fail, having the option to start the car with the key...
yes I realize you still have to hit the power button, but basically the key in the slot + power button does not work the reason I found this out...
I’m helping my friend sort through this weird issue car starts totally normal, door locks work when in keyless go, buttons work for remote lock...
so when I come to a stop occasionally I will hear some squeaking in the engine area sounds almost like a dot matrix printer what could this be?
