Battery replacement on recently purchased Prius

And he makes a great car, too.

 

. Yep, our genius madman, who lives on in our car.

 

Looking at the pictures in the trunk of the rusted bolts it looks like there was alot of water in that area.

There have also been lots of reports of cracked body seams on that year that allowed water ingress into trunk. Most commonly found was a crack in the body seam where the roof meets the rear A pillar right by the rear hatch hinges in the corner valley.
Look in the corner there next to the hinges and under the paint you'll see where they are spot welded together the roof & A pillar then puttied and painted. Look closely for a crack right there across the spot weld. Water runs through that crack down inside the car behind the interior valences and into the trunk filling the spare tire well.

Not sure why that seam is failing but maybe from slamming the rear hatch or running hyperinflated tire pressure
which is quite hard on the car.

Whenever you close the hatch always leave a door open to lessen air pressure and as you pull the hatch down then put your hand on the Toyota emblem and close it as easily as you can. Use the movement/weight of the door to gently close the hatch in one smooth movement.

Btw, anything in there that's starting to rust can be mitigated easily by just spraying this stuff on the affected area. It will stop further rust migration. Best product ever:

Blaster Corrosion Stop Protectant - PB Blaster

What's great about this stuff is its stays where you put it and does not smell. Do not use WD40 anywhere near the car. Thats stuff stinks forever. Only place I have found that sells CSP is Home D.

Also if its that rusted inside get the car up on jackstands and get under the front. See how rusted it is under there.
Spray the suspension down with this stuff. It really helps. One of the known issues concerning corrosion under the car and can be costly is the resolver connector on the transmission. Its the connector right above the 2 Inverter coolant hoses on the side of the transmission. Its high on the side of the trans. It will look rusted or corroded. Spray the hell out of that connector and pray it does not go bad. Failure of that connection due to corrosion is very expensive.

 

. Good info Ed.

 

The more I read of your thread, the more I think your Prius was flooded at some point. Just because there's nothing about it in CarFax doesn't mean it didn't happen. Nothing goes in CarFax unless the person repairing it logs it with the VIN. There are unscrupulous individuals who would pay someone to fix the obvious flood damage and people happy to take that money. If it lived on the Texas Gulf Coast at some point there are floods almost every year.

That doesn't mean you can't fix it, but if salt water got into electrical components, they at a minimum need a good cleaning. Check under the door frame trim for corrosion.

 

DTC P3004 is not going to be caused by the Smart system. Your hybrid system has a problem.

 

Save yourself some headaches, check your 12v battery's voltage, Mine went down to 10.6, and all kinds weird things were happening. I replaced the battery, and that was it. I read this over and over in other threads too.

 

True, it never hurts to check/replace the 12v battery. I would never differ from Pats diagnosis. I most definitely replace that corroded piece of junk in your hand. I don't think that can be cleaned up. Items that I know of influencing the smart key system, "The 12 V Battery" and the Fob battery. Aside from that error code, what is the symptom now? Did all the HV battery cells check at about the same charge level, that is, within specs?

 

. Did you install a new 12 V Bat, recently?

 

What Coolride17 is saying here is absolutely true, and can be verified by researching this site

 

OK, then keep driving the car and see what happens. It is possible that you had a loose connection somewhere which was fixed as you reassembled the traction battery.

 

. Agreed!

 

I just did some research on Gen 2 Hv Battery. 38 cells X 7.2 volts = 273.6 Volts @ 6.5 AH. According to those figures your voltage output is extremely low. Unfortunately in a series circuit low or bad batteries affect the rest of the batteries and of course read low. The HV batteries are actually in a series/ parallel combination to get the above Specs. The only way to know is to check every single battery. Too bad, we can no longer access all the old posts on Gen 1 and 2, maybe even 3 for all I know..... PS with an output of 210 I am surprised that the HV propulsion is even working.

 

The corrosion on the smartkey antennae mounts won't hurt anything. That antenna does not need to be grounded.
(although it's looking like the back of the car was underwater at some point, or exposed to salty sea air for an extended period).

 

Sorry, but your specs are for the Gen I HV battery.
Gen II and Gen II have 28 modules x 7.2v = 201.6v.
210v is nominal, but the voltage alone will not tell you if there is an issue.

 

. OK , I stand corrected. The site I quoted specifically said Gen II 2004- 2009. Thankyou for the correction.

 

hi patrick could you please point me where in the manual is this? I could only found the number for insulation resistantance on Hv-433. thank you.