I love my v but understand I'm not a big Japanese overall car fan, but more of a a German car fanatic who road races a TMS modified '98 M3 and a highly built '74 Porsche 911. Out of the box the Prius is a vanilla driver that's happy (the "sweet spot") at 45-50 mph on secondary roads and 65 - 70 on the highway. My v was a wanderer on the road and not at all happy in crosswinds or in the buffeting from following/passing 18 wheelers and actually a bit scary at much over 70 mph! Pickin's for the v chassis are slim and not wanting to "slam" the car or get silly with thousands of dollars for coil overs in a daily driver, but with some research I added Tanabe springs (no choices here, TRD parts for v chassis don't exist) using the front set which are 5-10% stiffer and a bit less than an inch shorter. The rears I left alone as I carry 150+/-lbs of parts and tools in the rear of the wagon and it already say nearly an inch lower once loaded. I threw on the CUSCO (Tanabe didn't have one for the v) rear sway bar (there is no bar on the stock v and none offered from TRD yet) and picked up two 7mm aluminum spacers for the front wheels (stock 17s) and a pair of 5mm for the rear closing the gap in fr to rr track by a couple mm. Though chassis stiffening might add to this equation, the stock platform isn't bad and I don't think the expense is justified. The car is literally transformed... I turned the proverbial "golf cart" (my friends ribbing name) into a "go-cart"! Body roll is well controlled, turn in is sharper and more acurate, she takes a set entering in a corner rolls to the apex and exits smoothly (not too quickly). The cars "sweet spot" rose 10-15 mph in every driving scenario and is no longer bothered AT ALL by crosswinds, truck buffeting or high speeds on the highway. She's well planted and predictable at the, I use the term loosely, limit. Total cost was less than $800 and about a couple of hours under the car. Dare I say, the car almost drives like a German automobile and I enjoy my 800 miles a week of New England back roads and highways much more though I may never see 48-50mph again as my puttering hyper-mileage days are over and I drive it at a more spirited (normal) pace now. A little tip for those who enjoy the drive, you can actually create some throttle lift effect (for turn in) as opposed to the coasting that normally occurs... when you reach 25 mph set the cruise control. Going faster does not cancel it but when you lift throttle she applies electronic braking giving a wee bit of trailing throttle response and weight transfer for cornering and deceleration. Plus the habit charges the battery more frequently. When you have to brake, just hit resume when you pass 25mph (minimum setting) and resume the drive. It's a win win on the road! Just my 2 cents on improving the experience... Dave Stable: 2012 Prius v, '04 Sienna (family), '84 911 Cabriolet, '07 Porsche GT3, (retired for V) '00 BMW 528iT wagon, '98 M3 track car, '74 911 3.8L fire breathing crazy fun race car. Also have '98 Honda/Isuzu Odyssey, '99 Odyssey and '03 GMC Savanah 3500 18' box truck cutaway service vehicles. Youtube channel track adventures, google "Strangefingers Youtube channel"
Modding is wonderful and addictive. For me, appearance and "cool" mods are best. My previous car was a 2011 Lexus IS F-Sport. It came from the factory lowered, with F-Sport springs, front and rear struts, mid body brace, and F-Sport exhaust system options. It looked cool. I replaced the 18" factory wheels with aftermarket 19" wheels. I wanted a nice looking, sporty, luxury car with all the key options. I quickly realized that all the suspension items were over kill and resulted in a harsh ride. In my opinion, the Prius is one of the least likely cars for suspension modding. But I certainly don't fault those that do. While driving my Prius, I use minimal braking, sometimes resulting in slightly higher than normal cornering. But, I have no issues with the factory suspension. It is, what it is.
My v was almost completely cured of its wandering on the freeway by dumping the OE tires and getting Michelins. Its a completely different car.
Not wanting to affect the ride quality and ground clearance but to get rid of the nervousness of the car, I started out putting the 2010 IS250 17x8 rims on 225/50R17 Bridgestone RE002. The size is the closest to the 16" wheel diameter (approx +2mm) and doesn't look oversized. Fuel economy wise I really don't care. It's pretty efficient as it is and I care more about safety above FE. The standard Bridgestone Turanza ER33 were terrible in every way. The RE002 don't make themselves heard despite the aggressive tread pattern. Results is a big improvement with wheels/tyres on its own but the car is definitely under dampened as it somewhat bounces mid corner (car has done 15000km). The nervous front end has almost gone since the light steering makes the car still wander anyway. I'll put on the front under suspension brace and mid chassis brace from the famous guy here to see if it improves more. I do however have some OE Prius alpha 17x7 (not available to Australia) coming since the 8" wide rims technically requires engineer's certification to be roadworthy. Hopefully it won't reverse the improvements too much. Aside from the tyre size difference between the v/alpha to the hatch, my hatch with the exact changes (+ the chassis braces) has certainly been changed the hatch where the VSC beeps way earlier than when tyre grip is lost. RE002 on my Prius hatch which now I also have on my Prius v/alpha On the v/alpha
You had the OE Toyo Proxes A20 215/45R17 skins? We haven't had any issues with ours (or the Dunlop M3 215/45 R17 winter tires).
I have a v 5 already with 17" I have 215/45 R17 rims from my 2001 IS 300. Would that fit and improve the driving experience?
I am not familiar with the IS300. You would need to ensure that both bolt hole configuration and backspacing are compatible with the v.
IS300 uses 5x100 and won't fit the wagon. 215/45r17 is also undersized and under the weight rating. Would highly avoid risking your occupants and fellow drivers around you to use that size tyre.
If so, the bolt circle is an obvious incompatibility, however, our 2012 v rides on OEM 215/45R17 Toyo Proxes A20 tires.
My handling mods have been 3 under body braces, strut tower brace, Tanabe lowering springs, 17" ENKIE RPF1 wheels & Yokohama YK 580 tires (215/50). So far very good. Last will be the front and rear sway bars. Wandering can be cured by having the toe-in set to the max factory specs. My mechanic did it and I like it.
I've set our v Five to zero front toe and don't experience wandering. Adding toe will cost you scrub, tire life and MPG. Of course, like many things, it's a personal preference and choice.
How are the spacers working out for you? Are you getting any wheel rub? Any chance you can upload a picture ? Thanks
I've got two Cusco under body braces (mid and front) and one Tanabe brace (forward of the mid brace) and a Cusco strut tower brace. A far rear brace near the bumper it totally ineffective and just adds unnecessary weight. I may add a rear sway bar after I autocross it a few times (yes, I said autocross.) It's good to practice emergency handling and know your vehicle's responses under various maneuvers). My suspension is Tanabe lowering springs and front sway bar. Later I'll get adjustable shocks. My aftermarket wheels are ENKIE RP F-1, 17" X 7" Tires: Yokohama YK 580 215/50/17 V-rated (from Discount Tire) I may go to 225/45 tires next time since that size is recommended for my wheel size. Oh, yeah, and then there's my INJEN cold air intake and filter shield. A bit more power and some induction noise only during hard acceleration. So you can see performance is as important as mpg to me. I have a v that can at least "keep up with traffic".