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I need to replace my head gasket, need help diy

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by zoeboi954, Apr 28, 2016.

  1. zoeboi954

    zoeboi954 Junior Member

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    I know a lot of you guys would say I should leave it to the professional. But we all know that labor gonna be expensive and I don't have enough money to consider it an option. So it's I have no choice but to do it myself. I heard that it mostly likely for a cylinder head to be damaged if the gasket blows so I seen them on ebay for about 300 and the head gasket for 180 so far I'm lookin at 500+. I looked at a lot of videos of people replacing head gasket and most of the have a step by step booklet on their vehicles. Where can get one for the prius? Is there an online version/pdf? Any tips/recommendations
     
  2. mrbigh

    mrbigh Prius Absolutum Dominium

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    What symptoms is the ICE developing for you to determine you need to do this job?
     
  3. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    If you have to ask for a step by step guide, you are not qualified to do a head gasket replacement. You make it sound like a spark plug replacement....

    SM-N900P ?
     
  4. zoeboi954

    zoeboi954 Junior Member

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    Oil lost, coolant lost, overheating, water pump failure, rough engine knock / misfire when ever the engine starts. Basically the same as this person
    2010 Prius Blown Headgasket | PriusChat
     
  5. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Here's something to start with, from the Repair Manual. Note, it looks like all the blue links (broken) are referencing to other sections, that you would also need to access. But at least this will give you some idea of scope.

    Have you got a diagnosis, and/or a quote from dealership? Would be interesting to know.
     

    Attached Files:

  6. zoeboi954

    zoeboi954 Junior Member

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    You do know that even mechanics still have to follow different guide lines for certain vehicle cause not all cars are the same right. I rather have a step by step than going in crazy with tools
     
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  7. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    Just don't want you tearing up your engine......this is usually a death sentence for most cars. And very uncommon for the Prius
     
  8. zoeboi954

    zoeboi954 Junior Member

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    Very true but how I look at if I don't do it ima have to get the engine replaced, if I do it and in the small percentage I get it right I learn a new trick that I could share with yall but If i fail I'm still looking at an engine replaced. So it's win, lose,lose
     
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  9. tak1313

    tak1313 Member

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    A head gasket job is daunting, but mostly because of the time and complexity of getting to the head itself. It's essentially a Corolla 1.8L engine, so you may be able to start with looking up head gasket jobs on that engine. The main thing is keeping track of EVERYTHING you remove and how things are connected. Paint markers of various colors are your friend.

    Your problem, from the sounds of it, is that you likely do not have all the proper tools (general, specialized, and measuring (such as straight edge to measure the flatness of the block and head once you're in there).

    Additionally, you may get in there, and find the head and/or the block needs to be machined due to warpage - especially where you seem to have experienced multiple overheats.

    The head is not that bad, as you can take the head into a machine shop, but what will you do if the block needs machining? Replacing a gasket on a warped block will leave you where you started. If the head needs to be machined (more likely than the block needing it), you will have to have the knowledge and tools to disassemble the head components (valves, rockers, etc), and reassemble after machining. Additionally, if you do have to machine the head, you will have to account for the metal removed in the thickness of your gasket, so don't get the gasket before you know if the head/block needs to be decked. Using a stock thickness gasket on a decked head/block may result in too much cylinder compression and destroy the block through detonations and/or valve interference.

    Your best bet may be to see what a good indie would charge - or maybe even how much it would cost to swap a good used engine. Even swapping an engine may be less labor cost than a head gasket (albeit with a higher "parts cost").
     
  10. Montgomery

    Montgomery Senior Member

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    I agree to all the above. I once owned a 72 Datsun 510 (yeah, I sold it like an idiot). Stock it came with an L16 engine. When L16 engine went out, I put in an L18. It was my sports car, so I had a weber carb, headers, electronic ignition. Needless to say, I went through a lot of heads due to heat variances. I put in a larger radiator and electric fan, but the iron block to aluminum head always created a heating mis-match. If you have to do this on your own, be prepared that your fix won't be permanent. It will most likely start leaking again. So fix it if you can, start saving like crazy and have money saved for when it goes again. Both the head and the block will need to be completely flat upon replacement, that way ensuring no leakage. This is why it is so costly. When I did my Datsun, I never had the head or block checked for unevenness and I think this is another reason I kept having leaks. The first time I did it was the longest. After that, I got pretty fast at it. However, the Prius has a lot of hoses, wire harnesses, etc to remember how to connect. I wish you the best. But as others have stated, it is kind of odd that you are having this problem. Take Care!
     
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  11. Rebound

    Rebound Senior Member

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    Here in the San Francisco area, there are lots of Prius', and they get totaled and parted out all the time. It wouldn't be difficult to find a replacement engine from a wreck. It's a good backup strategy to consider if you get the head off and the damage looks too great or the complexity too daunting.
     
  12. springer222

    springer222 New Member

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    I removed head on my 2012 Prius, and head looks pretty flat using stiff steel ruler. But I will sand it (old skool method) on flat glass table to make sure. Removing head looks pretty daunting, but it's actually not bad as long as you keep track of all the bolts and hose connections (masking tape, markers etc). The biggest problem I had was removing electrical connectors - those can be really difficult to pry out. As for special tools, only special tool I needed was 12mm triple square bit to remove head bolts. EGR cooler front stud can be removed using 6mm hex bit (no need to remove the other three studs - just the 12mm nuts). For $3K-$4K quoted by many repair places, i would gladly do it myself, and if I had to do it second time it will be much faster.
     
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  13. Gasketblower

    Gasketblower Junior Member

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    Curious if you was able to do the job DIY and if you found the resources you needed I am currently In the same boat but not as bad mine has not over heated but I am loosing coolant and had few rough starts been just doing research I am mechanically inclined but don’t really have the right space for it
     
  14. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    How many miles/kms?

    Exhaust Gas Recirculation and intake manifold cleaned?
     
  15. Gasketblower

    Gasketblower Junior Member

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    It has 278 k km I cleaned the intake and MAF air filter changed spark plugs not too long ago- I been keeping eye on the coolant It takes about a month or so and it goes to low I drive everyday as I am Uber driver as I hear blowing head gasket on hybrids is a common occurrence amongst Uber’s and taxis cause the car turning on and off 600+ a day most likely leaking coolant into the cylinder as I noticed some times my car has no give then power kicks in, I have not done gas down test but I want to prepare for the worst, I honestly can’t afford 2k+$ that will cost for mechanic to do this job and I am hesitant to use a gasket sealer fix as air hesr mix stories on how well it works and some said it more damage the. Good
     
  16. Gasketblower

    Gasketblower Junior Member

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    Did you happen to have a repair manual while doing this and if yes where did you get it I been looking for pdf copy thanks in advance for your reply
     
  17. johnnychimpo

    johnnychimpo Active Member

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    If you have not done it I will guide you.
    you can do it. if you have time dont rush it. YOu may need to have the head taken to a machine shop.
     
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  18. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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  19. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Although there are other reports of people getting away with a 12mm triple square, so it seems to be close enough to the right shape to fit the bolts, the tool specified by Toyota is a 10mm double hex.

    [​IMG]

    The triple square may be more common among the German automakers.
     
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  20. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Yeah I sketched both up in AutoCAD once, found ever so slight diff in the dim across the points. IIRC the triple square dim was a hair more. Too, the angle of the triple square points is (obviously) 90 deg, whereas the double hex (again pretty obviously) is 60 degrees. The double hex is specd by Toyota, the correct shape.

    believe that sketch is posted in my second link in post up the page.