New head gasket replacement video from Gasket Masters

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Mendel Leisk, Nov 21, 2019.

  1. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    You just do the best that you can. After you finish replacing the seals, and put camshaft back on,
    You slowly rotate the engine twice, put the crankshaft at TDC, the camshaft SHOULD line up with
    the marks on the head. "IF" they don't, then you'll have to pull the timing cover and move the chain
    and camshaft to line everything up.

    You can do it! :)
     
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  2. Figster10

    Figster10 Member

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    Lining it up after is something I will for sure get done and take my time with. I'm just stuck at locking the plunger on timing chain in the timing chain cover. I feel like the little slack I have should be enough to remove the camshaft so I can proceed with seal replacement project. I feel like as long as I have enough slack I dont need the tensioner plunger to lock, right?

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  3. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    I've never done one, so I can't say about the plunger. But you'll have to remove the tensioner
    to get the chain off the sprocket.
    When I did similar jobs on other engines, I just kept tension on the chain as I turned the engine.
    Which, usually requires two people.
    The good thing is, you'll only have to rotate the engine twice. Because 2 pistons will be at TDC
    at the same time. Then you rotate the engine 360 degrees and do the other two. Then rotate another
    360 degrees, and install the cam.
    What you could do is mark the chain and cam before removing the chain, replace the seals on #1 and #3.
    Install the cam and put the chain back on, aligning the marks you made on the chain and sprocket.
    install 2 or 3 cam bearing and snug the bolts down. No need to torque them. Install the tensioner, then rotate
    the engine, mark the chain and sprockets again, then remove the cam and replace the seals on #2 and 4.

    Extra work, but less chance of messing up the timing chain! :)
     
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  4. Figster10

    Figster10 Member

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    I catch your drift. I think what I'm missing Is the 2nd person to turn the camshaft so I can lock the tensioner plunger all the way back.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  5. The Critic

    The Critic Resident Critic

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    ?

    The tensioner is removed prior to removing the chain and guides. Once the tensioner is out of the vehicle, compress the tensioner by hand and engage the hook. After reassembly, turn the crankshaft clockwise and rotate the engine 720 deg to confirm that the crank and cam sprockets line up at TDC.

    Within 30-90 deg of turning the crankshaft clockwise, the hook will release and the tensioner will start to place tension on the chain. You will hear a ratcheting sound.


    iPhone ? Pro
     
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  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Underfoot

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    Here's a Honda Ridge Line Saga (I know...), from South Main Auto Repair. Interesting 3~4 part, fairly lengthy. First episode link:

     
  7. makeitgo

    makeitgo New Member

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    Does this sound like a correct timing procedure for me to use at this point?

    1. Confirm #1 TDC by temporary placing timing chain cover back on then balancing damper on crank and check alignment of damper mark to timing cover mark to verify TDC. Make a new paint mark on crank sprocket to serve as an easy TDC check for steps to follow.

    2. after removing timing cover verify exhaust cam sprocket two marking dots are in line with the block joint thus setting the exhaust sprocket position

    3. Place timing with colored link on exhaust sprocket vertical mark

    4. With wrench on intake cam manually rotate until timing chain (two) colored lights links are set on intake sprocket timing mark (long slot)

    5. Verify timing chain colored link is in position on crank sprocket (it should be, right?)

    6. Install exhaust side chain tensioner guide then rotate engine crank by hand 720 degrees to see that exhaust sprocket timing dots are still in line with the block joint with at crank TDC mark

    7. Timing is set. (or did i miss something?)

    8. Reassemble and GO BABY!
     
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  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Underfoot

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    Short video, what to do if the head bolts are "frozen":



    They blame it on the on the use of conventional oil, not sure that's true, but anyway, some good tips.
     
  9. RightOnTime

    RightOnTime Senior Member

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    Thanks for the post! Was that gas station oil that caused all that gunk?


    iPhone ?
     
  10. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Underfoot

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    My (pure guess) is just long overdue oil change. Or stop leak??
     
  11. Gasket masters

    Gasket masters New Member

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    #31 Gasket masters, Jul 29, 2020
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 30, 2020
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  12. priusgreymint

    priusgreymint Member

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    Is there video on how to replace head gasket ?
     
  13. Brian c

    Brian c New Member

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    Is this video still available? I'm planning to replace head gasket on 2010 prius and trying to get as much info as possible beforehand. Thanks
     
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  14. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Underfoot

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    Unfortunately @Gasket masters have taken down those videos.

    Bunch of cylinder head related excerpts from the Repair Manual:
     
  15. springer222

    springer222 New Member

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    Yes too bad that video was taken down by gasket masters. I saw that video and it made it crystal clear to me what needed to be done and that I had ability to do it my self. Much easier and faster than reading some service manual.
     
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  16. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Actually they have a new one uploaded a month ago with good narration, camera work and details.
     
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  17. springer222

    springer222 New Member

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    Yes you are right. The head gasket replacement video on 3rd gen prius is back online. It's also helpful to watch the gasketmasters video on 3rd gen prius engine swap as they have even better illustration of bolts placements and removal.
     
  18. Gasketblower

    Gasketblower Junior Member

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    I am about to start this Project tomorrow, I been driving with the O-RING off the Coolant Reservoir for quite while now and I have not been getting shakes but suddenly I lost majority of my coolant and I can see visible leak on the ground and on my passenger Whewell went under the car and removed the plastic cover and could not pin point the leak but the car also started to do the morning rattles, ever since I put the Oring back on it I saw white smoke out the tail pipe with water , and rattled every time I turned it on and I hear something loose metal flapping around from right side of the engine when its vibrating, I am hoping I don't have bent rod and I can just replace the Gasket and be done with it, I did buy compression tester and will check compression before I pull off the head, I have not driven it since, I gotten the Rattle noise to be on the safe side. Thanks @Mendel Leisk for the information you have provided related to the HG issue if you have any more guidance and suggestions Please do share, I have looked at the item list others have purchased , I want to refrain from buying parts off dealer, I will only buy what only necessary stuff from them such as Headbolts, thermostat, water pump and coolant, I bought my Headgasket Kit off amazon as well as the tool to open the Headbolts, I beleive this Headgasket kit is better then the one the deal provides and 100$ cheaper
    if anyone else doing this project at the same time keep InTouch with results and costs and the video/ resource you have used to complete this Job. I would not be doing this myself If I was able to find mechanic to do it at reasonable price but most mechanics shops I called wont even answer their phones I guess they are busy!
     
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  19. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    I think I would find the leak spot before I went too far in case there is a hole in the block. Maybe there is a leak in a hose or radiator. I assume you don't see any oil on the ground.
     
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  20. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Underfoot

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    Not sure who posted and where, but I checked and confirmed: M8x1.25 threaded bolt (often14 mm socket size) DO thread into the two small holes in the “harmonic balancer”, aka beltless pulley, on the end of crankshaft. That’s the one with high torque value bolt, that has to come off before timing chain cover. Might be useful for making up a jig for restraining the pulley when torquing. Torque is 140~ ft/lbs IIRC.
     
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