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2010 Gen 3 Prius and 12V Battery Question

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by viprius, Nov 30, 2016.

  1. MeGuinness

    MeGuinness Member

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    Would A not so good 12v battery give any performance problems to the car even if it manages to start it ok ?

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  2. xliderider

    xliderider Senior Member

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    It may result in lower than normal mpg numbers.
     
  3. MeGuinness

    MeGuinness Member

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    Well lately I'm down to 45mpg from the usual 56mpg ..... unless the 5w30 oil change is the problem?

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  4. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    First time using the heavier oil?

    Could be onset of winter too.
     
  5. MeGuinness

    MeGuinness Member

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  6. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Any reason for the heavier oil, like reducing oil consumption?

    I have used 5w-30 for over 25 k miles for oil consumption reduction. Have not noticed that significant of mpg reduction by switching, maybe 1-2 mpg but I would say negligible. But oil consumption has gone down :).
     
  7. MeGuinness

    MeGuinness Member

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    Yes I wanted to see if would consume less oil as it drinks 5litres in about 8k

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  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    8k miles I assume? Looked up GB units a bit.

    That's getting to be a thirsty car. How many miles on the odometer?
     
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  9. MeGuinness

    MeGuinness Member

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  10. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Try anything else to help slow the oil consumption?

    I was at a quart every 4,500 miles before doing the following:
    1. Intake manifold cleaning
    2. Pcv valve changeout
    3. Egr cooler and egr valve changeout
    4. Switched to 5W-30 synthetic oil
    5. Fuel injector treatments with BG Products 44K (twice)
    6. Engine Treatment with BG Products EPR (PN 109) before the 140 k mile oil change
    7. Added BG Products MOA to this oil change
    Began to notice the oil consumption around 120 k miles and still experimenting ;). At 145 k miles now.

    I look forward to your update(y).
     
  11. MeGuinness

    MeGuinness Member

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    What I have done
    1 intake manifold cleaning
    2 egr pipe cleaning
    3 fuel injection treatment
    4 switched to 5w30 oil

    I have to try to take out completely the egr valve to clean it.

    What is your n.7?

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  12. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Here are some pics of the products I have used to answer your question on what #7 was:

    EPR (used this to remove carbon deposits):
    IMG_0092.JPG IMG_0093.JPG

    MOA (used to reduce friction and should help swell the soft materials to reduce oil consumption):

    IMG_0084.JPG IMG_0085.JPG

    One school of thought with the MOA is that the additives in it keep the oil basic longer. This should help the softer materials avoid acidic attack from the combustion process, hopefully reducing the blow by and oil consumption. It also is a great lubricant which should help avoid frictional wear in the engine.

    The other school of thought is that it is "snake oil" and does nothing. I figured for $14 it was worth a shot. I was going to switch the oil to high mileage anyway,so I had nothing to lose:).

    Google it and you will see some interesting videos about what it does and you can decide for yourself. I personally like the video with the chevy 350 running for 12 minutes with the oil pan dropped off the engine and the temperature of the engine stays under 100 F.

    They also make an extended life MOA that I will try in the next change and compare the differences between it and the standard MOA. That is supposed to last for a 10-15k oil change interval:

    IMG_0088.JPG IMG_0089.JPG

    Hope this helped and answered your question. Keep us posted on your situation (y).
     
  13. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    @MeGuinness Your oil consumption is a revelation. I mean: what the hell?! What does Toyo say is "acceptable", a quart every 600 miles? Sorta sums up their attitude. :confused:
     
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  14. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    And their only response is to do a consumption test. It is left up to the owner to carry the mail and check the dipstick frequently. If not caught early before the dash light illuminates, we know the result :(.
     
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  15. MeGuinness

    MeGuinness Member

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    This thread is diverting big time ...but I removed the egr pipe ... again... doing this once a month nearly.... it seem stuck again....torch light test .. before and after the cleaning
    1480866819809.jpg 1480866826860.jpg

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  16. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Wow that's pretty severe:(.

    What type of gas do you buy? Is there any high detergent gas available?

    What does the egr valve itself look like and is it functioning? And what about the intake manifold? Did each of them have as significant of buildup?
     
  17. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    When the object is to solve a problem, it's best to just go where it goes. No big deal.

    So that's the "missing" oil that's blocking the pipe I guess. The upstream EGR cooler is likely totaled??

    If you dive in, I would follow Ray's approach with the cooler, and maybe the EGR valve proper as well: have replacement on hand. Then you can clean the old cooler at your leisure, be ready if-and-when there's a next time.
     

    Attached Files:

    #37 Mendel Leisk, Dec 4, 2016
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2016
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  18. MeGuinness

    MeGuinness Member

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    Cleaned as much as I could the valve access ....gosh it looks a pain to reach the left nut

    1480870199127.jpg

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  19. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Have you removed the wipers/motors/windshield cowl? For the EGR cooler (if and when you tackle it), I strongly suspect that'll help. (See @NutzAboutBolts spark plug change video in maintenance section). That and pull of the engine underpanel with the car raised.

    Ray keeps mentioning he trimmed something before re-install: he's the EGR pioneer.

    (I've actually come across instruction in the Repair manual, about cowl removal, but the video is just as good if not better, since it's hands-on. There's no critical torque values I think, just common sense.)
     
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  20. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    Access is difficult, but you'll find a way;).

    Looks like you also took the screws off of the egr head. If you can't get the nut off of the back of the left side, you can at least actuate the plunger on the egr and see if it is stuck.If it was, at least you freed it up:).

    At some point I would pull the cooler and egr valve and inspect. With the amount of deposits in the egr pipe, Imagine what might be in the cooler.

    See if you can get a spare cooler and valve from a salvage yard. This way they'll be clean and shorten the replacement process some.

    Good luck(y)
     
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