Hey Guys; Any idea what this means? (See pics) [IMG dash [IMG MFD [IMG both Started driving home, about 30 seconds into the drive, a beep occured and all these dash lights came on. Stopped immediately to check engine oil and all fluids, all were fine. Drove it rest of the way home, about 5 miles, car drove fine and behaved normally, but these lights are always on now. Every time I start it now, these lights come immediately on, so I've stopped driving the car. Later took it on a short test drive. Car drove normally as usual, only difference is SOC meter seems erratic. Other than that, everything works and feels normal. First time I've had a problem with this car. It is a 2006 Prius with about 118,000 miles on it, with regular maintenance, etc. 12 V battery replaced last summer, key FOB battery replaced last summer. Anything other than this, I usually deal with myself, but Priuses are a mystery to me with the hybrid system. Will be taking it to a dealership when they open on Monday. In the meantime?... Thanks for the help;
time to pull the trouble codes. how long do you plan to keep it, and how much are you willing to spend?
Hello again; I have a spare traction batt I bought last year from a salvage yard out of a wrecked Prius. It's been sitting in the garage all winter, and I have no idea of it's state of health or it's history. I assummed it was completely discharged as the junkyard guy told me something like "...it only has two volts in it...." Today I pulled it out and tested the module voltages. It turned out to have quite a charge in it actually, 60V in the shorter stack and 131V in the longer stack of modules with the safety plug removed. Open circuit voltages on the modules all seemed to be over seven volts, which all immediately went away once I applied a load using a car headlight on each module. Closed circuit load testing showed 16 modules started in the high sixes and faded maybe a tenth or two to maybe down to 6.2V. The remainders dropped down to around 5V, with a few dropping to 4V, and one to 3V. Two of the modules started below 1V and went to zero. These numbers were after driving the car headlight for 60 seconds. One module started the test at 5V, but held steady at 5V for the entire duration. (Is it more important to be steady, or to have a higher voltage, especially if you don't know the battery's state of charge in the first place?) --- This was the salvaged battery out of the junked Prius. I'm next going to test the batt currently installed in my car. Q1- When I run these tests on the one in my car, what numbers should I expect to see on a module that is good, and what number should I consider as bad (needs replacing)? I don't want static voltages, I want the numbers under load. (I see too many YouTube videos where the guy just hooks up a meter to a cell and says, "7.8 volts....Yup, looks fine!") Am I giving the modules under load sufficient time to fade in these tests, or do I need to beat on them for longer? (Most of the modules I've seen fail seemed to dip within the first 10-45 seconds) Q2- My car is still driving, and after the mechanic cleared the Warning Lights, he said just drive it until the warning light comes on again before calling him back. There were NO CODES thrown from that incident. It's been a week now, and no warning lights or anything have shown up, however the SOC meter is very erratic, and my milage is pretty poor these days. Whereas I used to be able to glide a mile or so on certain stretches on the electric motor, now the gas engine is continually running to top off the battery. Is my currently installed battery a candidate for module cell replacement, for should I try one of those "Grid Charging/Reconditioning" products first? Q3- Can one of those "Grid Charger"s charge up that old salvaged battery I have while it's not installed in a car? and Q4- Are grid chargers REALLY worth it, or a placebo like those people who swear by health products at GNC? Thank you for reading what is probably a long and rambling post,
You need some sort of charger to get the entire pack refilled and balanced. If it were me, I'd do the whole job at once with a pack charger/discharger setup. (build your own or purchased) You can do the same thing with a small charger that does 1 module at a time, but doing 28 modules takes a heck of a lot longer. Plus you have to dismantle the pack to do it. If your pack does not have a shorted cell/module, than a charger/discharger setup will certainly help bring the pack back. Other factors like internal resistance and self discharge are still at play, of course.
My charger from hybrid automotive works great. Can't imagine messing around with a battery pack and not owning a charger.
If someone has a ton of free time and doesn't need a reliable car, and is having fun going through the pack module by module, I say go for it. Otherwise, skip it.