Oil Catch Can, Eliminate that knock!

EngineLink with IOS

 

I plugged MAF back in
Cleared codes
Let system turn on engine and do its thing. (It shuts off when engine reaches 104F)
The MAF reading around 8gm/sec running and 0.18gm/sec in ready mode.
Powered off and checked for pending codes... none!

 

There's that big metal gasket that connects the cooler to EGR pipe coming up from Exhaust manifold. Kinda like and exhaust gasket..it's really thin.It usually drops off before I can grab it. It lands on steering behind engine, straight down, hard to hear with the leaves blowing in air...

 

I get READY mode, no problem. It's just that it's running very rough like revs up then down and sounds like it clunks. No check engine light comes.

I did put the original intake manifold back in and have no change. Next is the pipe and dreaded cooler.

Are talking about #8? If so, yes it is on.

 

Yes that back one. Sounds like not your first rodeo. So guess you saw it. Here's the EVAP purge valve. Mounted on side of intake. Gots connector and two hoses. One comes from back gas tank, connects to the metal tubing, the other connects to intake, front side, next to MAP.
Did you check harness to fuel injectors? It was in my way a bit. Might have prob there.
Did you reconnect TPS

 

Yeah, unfortunately, not my first rodeo!

EVAP purge valve all good.

Didn't do much as far as checking the fuel injector harness. Nothing seems out of the ordinary.

Yes, TPS is connected.

Thank you for all your help.

 

Here's a shot of MAP ...should read same as atmospheric pressure in ready mode, engine not running, less when idling...
May just need to blow out gunk loosened up sucked in during cleaning..have you attempted to drive?
Did you attempt to clean intake ports on head? The injectors are there too, on top of ports, maybe plugged up one?

 

Too afraid to try to drive for fear of it stalling.
How would I clean the intake ports and unclog the injectors?

 

If you never got in there, don't need another variable.putting in gear and pressing gas in driveway? Did you try putting into maintenance mode? Just runs engine at 1000rpm ish for testing...

 

Success!!!

I just went out and put it in maintenance mode. It sounded rough but not as bad as before. About 30 seconds in, the car revved to about 2800rpm for about 2 seconds then went back down. Heard a couple of putters and then it leveled out and sounds fine now!

My take is the used intake manifold has a crack in it like you said. I will probably remove the original intake manifold and clean it and reinstall it since I can now do this in my sleep!

Thank you to all who helped me troubleshoot this. I really didn't want to remove the cooler!

 

That's sounds like a fix...yea ought to take a few minutes off your best time!LOL
Let it warm up, run a bit, check for codes, may call it a day! May be nothing wrong with intake? I blow nozzle all the parts after cleaning. May have been left over loose build up sucked past valves into cylinders.
Great job! Not a tough job just tight and low quarters!

 

Just finished my OCC install after EGR cooler cleaning on nieces 2010 hears some pics:

 

The one consideration would be the braided hose holding up as the one I installed on our 2010 collapsed.

I switched to 3/8” gas hose and has been working well .

Good mod though .

 

I'm not a big fan of replacing parts to sidestep the cleaning process. It's not that hard to clean these items, and it's just throwing a wild card into the mix, acquiring and sub'ing an EBay component, used and from who knows where. Extra expense too.

 

Yeah I don't trust the click-type torque wrenches either. I have a couple of the beam type torque wrenches that I bought from either Ebay or pawn shops about 10 years ago. They were both really cheap $10-20 and are always accurate. This works for most parts but the clicker type can be useful in tight quarters. If I had a clicker I'd calibrate it with my other beam-type torque wrench.

 

QUOTE="Raytheeagle, post: 2711715, member: 146078"]The one consideration would be the braided hose holding up as the one I installed on our 2010 collapsed.

I switched to 3/8” gas hose and has been working well .

Good mod though .[/QUOTE]
Thanks, the hose that came with OCC were very flexible, you could pinch it together, I could see it being sucked shut, the hose I replaced it with is very stiff, will keep an eye on it as heat may loosen the lines up a bit.

 

Hi everyone. I come all the way from the land of the Lexus CT200h crowd. (which lacks the knowledge, and activity of this wonderful place)

I've been a long time lurker on here. Huge thanks, to everyone on this forum, for being so informative, and thorough.

Thought I'd share my oil catch can install.

 

Took the car to run some errands today and it runs much more quieter and smoother than before. Here are some pictures from the cooler I took off of my ~38K v.

 

Mine was worse first time I did it but it was late in the game... already had rattling going on at cold start up.
Cooks on and Accumulates. Mine was nearly clogged at 165ish K?
I visited mine after 20k... Just moist oily on parts.but then again I drive 3.5k/month... Nothing a quick douche of carb cleaner/gas/brake clean or whatever can't spray off then blow nozzle out! Your right doing it early! Glad to here your prius is happy again!
Some attribute blown gaskets due to pressures built up around ICE attempt BURN/compress oil getting past valves into cylinders..makes sense...

 

Was that a home made fabricated bracket? Nice install. Hopefully those Home Depot style braided hoses hold up. I also used them in my OCC installation. So far so good.