P3029, P3000-123, C1259 codes

Recheck and re-tighten all your connections. These cars are VERY sensitive to anything battery power related. If it senses any values outside of what it deems "normal" it goes into limp. This includes things like voltage, amperage, and resistance. Also a quick search of the forum found these same codes can be triggered by a weak or bad 12v battery. Pull the battery, bench charge it, load test it outside the car, if bad replace, if good reinstall and keep an eye on its voltage with a multi meter. Remember to pull the main disconnect on the traction battery whenever working on the 12v system.

 

Have you tried clearing the codes and seeing if they came back? Also did you balance the pack with the new modules? If I remember correctly, its best to put the newest best modules in the middle of the pack and weakest on the outside due to temperature differences during charging and discharging. If the new modules are showing different voltages and charging and discharging at a different rate than the rest of the pack this can cause codes to come up.

 

That's to much voltage variance between modules. When paired together that's over half a volt difference than the rest of the pack.

 

you need to equalize the voltage across all pairs. This means you measure each module and then pair it with another module that will give you the closest equal value to all the other pairs. But I wouldnt do this until you let the battery normalize by connecting every module together in parallel and letting them all settle over night.

 

Double check corrosion on the voltage sense wires both at the ring terminals and the computer connector.

Also, be sure you used an inch-pound torque wrench to properly tighten the nuts in the modules and contactor. No guessing. The tools is cheap and will save you lots of headaches and wasted time.

 

This whole process would be much easier if you could "top balance" the modules with a traction battery charger, but im assuming you dont have one.

 

At the very least get them nearly identical in voltage when installing them.

Additionally you can watch the data live while driving in order to see what is going on.
For example,
Is it a sudden drop in voltage? That could be a loose connection or broken wire.
Is it a gradual separation between high and low blocks? Maybe then it is just a poor match of modules.

 

Another tip, after letting them equalize in parallel, you gotta give them time to "rebound" after you separate them. They wont all remain the same voltage. Some of the modules will drop a 0.1-0.2 others will gain a 0.1-0.2. If you have a module that drops alot, it needs replaced.

 

You're welcome. Pretty much everything i know I learned from this forum and trial & error. Most questions can be answered using the search and you don't waste time waiting for replies.

 

Hybrid Automotive is a trusted brand that is for consumers.

Of course if you have some diy skills, you could build your own or repurpose another piece of equipment. Grab a high voltage power supply (adjustable or low amperage)

 

Corrosion is very common.

Thank you for taking time to tell us the outcome!
Too often we give and advice or insights and never hear back. (Kinda rude if you think about it...)

Glad you found the problem. This may be the first of many breaks that occur over time. You can buy the wire frame for under $150 I think. Might be worth splurging on just to save yourself continual headaches.