P3029, P3000-123, C1259 codes

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by TwoPriusInTenn, Dec 1, 2018.

  1. TwoPriusInTenn

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    2003 Prius, 157747 miles
    Recently flashed up P3029. Trying to further diagnose the problem, all connections were cleaned and are free of corrosion. I ordered two cells to replace the two in block 19. After I installed them today, I took it out for a drive. About 3 miles down the road, it jerked and the triangle came up along with the brake light. The engine seemed to be "racing". Came home and put it on my Techstream. Three codes came up P3029, P3000-123, C1259. I am now thinking it might be the hv ecu. Any thoughts?
     
  2. FireFighterHill

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    Recheck and re-tighten all your connections. These cars are VERY sensitive to anything battery power related. If it senses any values outside of what it deems "normal" it goes into limp. This includes things like voltage, amperage, and resistance. Also a quick search of the forum found these same codes can be triggered by a weak or bad 12v battery. Pull the battery, bench charge it, load test it outside the car, if bad replace, if good reinstall and keep an eye on its voltage with a multi meter. Remember to pull the main disconnect on the traction battery whenever working on the 12v system.
     
  3. TwoPriusInTenn

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    Mr. Hill,
    Thank you for your reply. 12v battery is new.

    I placed the two cells I ordered together in block 19. I am going to split them between 18 & 19 and see if there is a difference.
     
  4. FireFighterHill

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    Have you tried clearing the codes and seeing if they came back? Also did you balance the pack with the new modules? If I remember correctly, its best to put the newest best modules in the middle of the pack and weakest on the outside due to temperature differences during charging and discharging. If the new modules are showing different voltages and charging and discharging at a different rate than the rest of the pack this can cause codes to come up.
     
  5. TwoPriusInTenn

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    Yes, cleared codes and they reappeared. The cells I purchased were just above 7.5 each. Existing cells are around 7.8. Do you suggest I will put the recently purchased cells in middle of the pack?
     
  6. FireFighterHill

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    That's to much voltage variance between modules. When paired together that's over half a volt difference than the rest of the pack.
     
  7. TwoPriusInTenn

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    Should I split them and place one on each end?
     
  8. FireFighterHill

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    you need to equalize the voltage across all pairs. This means you measure each module and then pair it with another module that will give you the closest equal value to all the other pairs. But I wouldnt do this until you let the battery normalize by connecting every module together in parallel and letting them all settle over night.
     
  9. ericbecky

    ericbecky Hybrid Battery Hero

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    Double check corrosion on the voltage sense wires both at the ring terminals and the computer connector.

    Also, be sure you used an inch-pound torque wrench to properly tighten the nuts in the modules and contactor. No guessing. The tools is cheap and will save you lots of headaches and wasted time.
     
  10. TwoPriusInTenn

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    Alright. I will adjust the packs as needed. Thank you for your reply and input.
     
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  11. FireFighterHill

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    This whole process would be much easier if you could "top balance" the modules with a traction battery charger, but im assuming you dont have one.
     
  12. ericbecky

    ericbecky Hybrid Battery Hero

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    At the very least get them nearly identical in voltage when installing them.

    Additionally you can watch the data live while driving in order to see what is going on.
    For example,
    Is it a sudden drop in voltage? That could be a loose connection or broken wire.
    Is it a gradual separation between high and low blocks? Maybe then it is just a poor match of modules.
     
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  13. FireFighterHill

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    Another tip, after letting them equalize in parallel, you gotta give them time to "rebound" after you separate them. They wont all remain the same voltage. Some of the modules will drop a 0.1-0.2 others will gain a 0.1-0.2. If you have a module that drops alot, it needs replaced.
     
  14. TwoPriusInTenn

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    Thank you both so very much! I really appreciate your input.
     
  15. FireFighterHill

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    You're welcome. Pretty much everything i know I learned from this forum and trial & error. Most questions can be answered using the search and you don't waste time waiting for replies.
     
  16. TwoPriusInTenn

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    Do you have a suggestion for a traction battery charger?
     
  17. ericbecky

    ericbecky Hybrid Battery Hero

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    Hybrid Automotive is a trusted brand that is for consumers.

    Of course if you have some diy skills, you could build your own or repurpose another piece of equipment. Grab a high voltage power supply (adjustable or low amperage)
     
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  18. TwoPriusInTenn

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    I found the culprit! We did adjust the cell blocks. I put it all back together and ran a check on Techstream. Block 19 was now registering zero. Went in and double checked my connections. I discovered a broken/corroded sensing wire on block 19. You know, the one behind the metal connection on cell 38! It snapped apart as I was removing it from the harness. I had another wire harness that I took a wire from and spliced it in place. Put it back together and it runs great! No codes!! My weekend is now free...
     
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  19. TwoPriusInTenn

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    Thanks again for the help!
     
  20. ericbecky

    ericbecky Hybrid Battery Hero

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    Corrosion is very common.

    Thank you for taking time to tell us the outcome!
    Too often we give and advice or insights and never hear back. (Kinda rude if you think about it...)

    Glad you found the problem. This may be the first of many breaks that occur over time. You can buy the wire frame for under $150 I think. Might be worth splurging on just to save yourself continual headaches.
     
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