1. Attachments are working again! Check out this thread for more details and to report any other bugs.

Advice on Changing Brakes and Serpentine belt

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by Joe Wall, Jul 3, 2020.

  1. Joe Wall

    Joe Wall Member

    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2019
    202
    42
    0
    Location:
    Wisconsin
    Vehicle:
    2009 Prius
    Model:
    Touring
  2. Joe Wall

    Joe Wall Member

    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2019
    202
    42
    0
    Location:
    Wisconsin
    Vehicle:
    2009 Prius
    Model:
    Touring
  3. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2010
    54,474
    38,106
    80
    Location:
    Greater Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Touring
    Are you going to DIY?
     
  4. Joe Wall

    Joe Wall Member

    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2019
    202
    42
    0
    Location:
    Wisconsin
    Vehicle:
    2009 Prius
    Model:
    Touring
    Yes with my dad who is experienced fixing cars
     
  5. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2010
    54,474
    38,106
    80
    Location:
    Greater Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Touring
    Ok. Follow the post #14 tips about disconnecting the 12 volt neg cable before commencing, and pumping brake pedal when everything's back together, before reconnecting the 12 volt. Two reasons for this:

    1. If you have the battery connected, and open the driver's door with caliper off the rotor, the system will try to pressurize (as likely as not), and this could pop the piston out.

    2. You do the pedal pushes to take up excess pedal travel. If you don't do this, at next start up the car may detect excess pedal travel, throw a code.

    Some info in the attached, torque values.

    One more thing, not sure if second gen has plastic caliper piston. Third gen does, and you want to be careful to provide even/uniform pressure to it's rim, to avoid stress fracture.

    Also, I'd be inclined to NOT open bleed bolt when pushing the piston back in. Some like to do this, but the Prius is very finicky about brake fluid bleeding. Second gen only has instruction for doing this with Techstream.
     

    Attached Files:

    SFO and ydpplqbd like this.
  6. Joe Wall

    Joe Wall Member

    Joined:
    Jan 8, 2019
    202
    42
    0
    Location:
    Wisconsin
    Vehicle:
    2009 Prius
    Model:
    Touring
    Dealer said they replace shims too.
     
    #26 Joe Wall, Jul 6, 2020
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2020
  7. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2010
    54,474
    38,106
    80
    Location:
    Greater Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Touring
    Dealer? It's not a bad idea, if they're really old they'll be getting pretty rusty. There's also end clips, the little bendy tangs at the two ends of the pads, that push into the caliper mounting bracket. I believe all these items are shown in my previous Amayama link (post #14).

    FWIW I've never bothered to replace the latter, on any car we've had. They almost seem to be stainless steel. Pad shim sets are about $20. With previous car's I'd sometimes replace them, sometimes not. Some manufacturers include replacement shims as a matter of course, I think Honda does now. They didn't in past, which is why I wouldn't always replace them.

    If you've got a second vehicle, maybe just take everything apart and then make a decision, pick up shims if warranted, at dealership.

    My 2 cents: I always buy genuine parts, from local dealership. With something I do so infrequently, I don't want to gamble on aftermarket parts, and have to deal with return shipping if there's any problems.
     
    #27 Mendel Leisk, Jul 6, 2020
    Last edited: Jul 6, 2020
    ydpplqbd likes this.