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2010 Prius with JBL - Powered Subwoofer Install (Pics and Instructions)

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Audio and Electronics' started by moner, Jun 30, 2009.

  1. thachcvu

    thachcvu New Member

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    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    III
    I used your pictures of the wiring and diagram. It was a great help. Got my system installed and sounds awesome! Thanks!
     
  2. Cheffaz

    Cheffaz Junior Member

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    Vehicle:
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    Five
    can this install work on my #5 2009 prius?
     
  3. frodoz737

    frodoz737 Top Wrench

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    The one last thing to figure out is a good spot to mount the remote bass adjust but I'm thinking I'll probably mount it in the console under the shifter.

    If you have not already done so, on my car there is an unused switch cover on the panel below the Power button. That is where I mounted the remote bass adjust.
     
  4. frodoz737

    frodoz737 Top Wrench

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    Picture

    DSC05873.jpg
     
    GearHead600 and mmcdonal like this.
  5. priusFTW

    priusFTW Gen III JBL non Nav

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    Three
    I returned the JBL MS-8 and installed this, my audio sounds fantastic! Thank you !! The floor of my garage shakes now lol when I play my music!! To me, the JBL Premium with this in the Gen III sounds fantastic!!
     
  6. KK6PD

    KK6PD _ . _ . / _ _ . _

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    Yes, the schematics I provided are actually from the 2009 year. PM me if you want a copy. Or just look at the highlights Moner indicated in the pics. That is the key page you need to tap into the JBL amp in the car!
     
  7. Radiospank

    Radiospank Member

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    Vehicle:
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    Model:
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    Bump i'm having problems using the output connections on the amp, I think it's sending too hot of a signal to my LOC.
    Is there any info on where I can tap into the pre amplified signal on the amp or headunit?
     
  8. Michael Cline

    Michael Cline Junior Member

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    Vehicle:
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    Model:
    IV
    I added a LoPro SSL 10-inch powered low-profile subwoofer (Same as BOSS BASS1200) under the passenger seat of my 2010 JBL Prius. I had some observations I wanted to share in case someone else was considering the same. My goal was to create much deeper bass, not more volume, which means add power in the 30-60Hz range. The JBL actually sounds pretty good alone, but lacks true depth. The LoPRo fits easily longwise under the passenger seat, or very tightly sideways in which case it is hard to remove. In either configuration you can get to the controls to adjust it. The satellite radio receiver will need to be moved to make room, but this is not difficult and only involves removing two bolts and a few screws. Installation is pretty straight forward especially using the information already provided in this thread, so I won't discuss it.

    Once purchased and installed, there are essentially no negatives to the setup, but maybe not as many positives as I had hoped for.

    Adjustment: I used analysis software and a profiled microphone to assist configuration. What I discovered is that the sub's variable crossover is not too great, it is probably a first or second order 6 or 12db/octave crossover, with total lack of precision where the crossover point occurs. Since the sub has significantly higher output at 70Hv, even crossing it at 50 Hz leaves a lot of output at 70 Hz, where the JBL Prius already has sufficient bass. See attached chart of the sub's native output when crossed at 50hz, notice the funkiness around 120 Hz which although odd does not sound bad. I found the best settings were setting the crossover point to the minimum of 50Hz, and setting the subsonic filter to it's minimum of 20hz. Because the Prius uses 2-ohm speakers, I found setting the input gain very high, and the Bass gain very low was best. Be advised on my remote volume control, all the changes take place in the first 10% of knob twist, the rest of the dial makes no difference. Basically the LoPro SSL has good apparent build quality and lots of features, but the features are not too well implemented.

    Measurements: Once driven via the rear door woofer output of the JBL (should I have used the front door woofer instead?), the output falls off quickly below 45 Hz, see graph. The Prius interior has a sharp null at 36.5Hz, which incidentally goes away when the windows are cracked even an inch open. Opening the sunroof made no measurable difference. In the second graph, the purple line is JBL plus subwoofer with windows closed, and the green is with the windows cracked. Moving the subwoofer under the seat which is where it was for these measurements (versus in the passenger foot area) has the effect of smoothing the peak at 70 Hz, and sounds best to me.

    Conclusion: The 10-inch powered under-seat subwoofer definitely increases bass power and adds more depth, but it is not the end-all in solutions. I think it has plenty power, but would need better controls and a non-filtered audio source to sound best, I may some day add my own crossover for best control. In the meantime, there are no drawbacks to the sub, the music definitely sounds better, and the graphs reflect a more level bass response (sorry I forgot to save the "JBL only" graph, but it was much worse).

    I hope my notes are useful and won't discourage others from making the same mod.

    -Michael

    Image: Native response of the sub, crossed at 50Hz
    Crossover 50 Hz.JPG


    Image: JBL+Subwoofer after adjustment and under drivers seat. Green line is with windows opened one inch. Microphone located near driver's head area. Purple line is "normal operation" with windows closed.
    PriusPlusSubwoofer.JPG
     
  9. Radiospank

    Radiospank Member

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    Try an eq to tame and or boost problem areas, I can't not use an eq in my car.
     
  10. SuperBlueNova

    SuperBlueNova New Member

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    I
    Hate to dig up an old thread, but I can't find a pinout for the input on the amp anywhere. I hate to re-amplify a signal which has already been amplified! I plan to add full range imaging in the rear, since the car is so heavily balanced toward the front, I should be able to add quite a few dB!

    I am thinking of putting the input signal through a PAC LD-10, then splitting each boosted channel off to the stock amp input and the input on my added amp at the rear. This should improve the stock system as well, for no real investment!

    Any help is greatly appreciated!
     
  11. skorpyo33

    skorpyo33 Junior Member

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    2010 Prius
    Model:
    ----USA----
     
  12. skorpyo33

    skorpyo33 Junior Member

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    ----USA----
    Ty jesus for saying where you connected inline power. So that side connection would be also called the shunt side as other people call it?
     
  13. skorpyo33

    skorpyo33 Junior Member

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    ----USA----
     
  14. skorpyo33

    skorpyo33 Junior Member

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    Ur a definitely a trooper for not disconnecting live wires when doin all that. But me, ummm no, everything will be disconnected on that battery. Were talkin life threatening amps w that huge battery close by. Im good.
     
  15. GearHead600

    GearHead600 Member

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    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    IV
    Well I will go ahead and assist on necro'ing this thread!

    I have to thank the OP (even though they don't appear 'active' here any more) for this post/thread! A few years ago I used the wiring pix you posted to be able to retain my "fancy" OEM JBL w/ navigation head unit, and wire in a Line Out Converter to add a sub amp, and a sub! So, I am currently running the "fancy" OEM JBL w/ navi head unit, and an Alpine MRD-M1005 sub amp, and an Alpine SWX-1243D (type-X) sub!

    Install is simple, simply "splice" a Line Out Converter under the passenger seat for the signal to an amp, wire in the amp, wire in speakers/subs! Next I am going to have to wire in some 12v fans for the amp, since I have it in a 'hidden' installation in the little tray under the trunk (above the spare), as it tends to over-heat after extended listening... I've also been toying with the idea of upgrading the sub to a single 18" Sundown Audio sub! Either way, this prius surely grabs looks when you can FEEL my music several cars away :D

    I didn't really grab pix or include details on the line-out converter (or the kill switch I've wired from the dash to the amp remote wire), as they're kind of optional anyway, and hidden away (and line-out converters are really a dime a dozen)... But I did wire a 'kill switch' to manually control whether the amp and thereby sub are on / off... As I've already stated, I'm probably going to have to wire in some 12v fans (off the remote wire & switch) for extended play so the amp stops over-heating down there! And I may even upgrade to a single 18" Sundown Audio subwoofer! If I do that though, I will surely have NO trunk space whatsoever, and may even have to give up the back-seat (fold them down) in order to fit a box and sub that big! But I DO <3 my bass!!!

    EDIT/ADD: Oh and I Must add: Having a sub 'system' in a Prius is perfect, since the headlights NEVER dim every-time the bass hits like it usually does in a traditional car!

    PIX!:
    20200404_171958.jpg 20200404_172048.jpg 20200404_172133.jpg 20200404_172145.jpg 20200404_172200.jpg 20200404_172213.jpg 20200404_172226.jpg 20200404_172240.jpg 20200404_172742.jpg
     
    #35 GearHead600, Aug 4, 2020
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2020
  16. GearHead600

    GearHead600 Member

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    IV
    This is exactly where I mounted my amp's on / off ("kill") switch! Wire one end to an ignition only 'hot' (that way the amp turns off when you turn the car off, even if you leave the switch in the 'on' position) and the other end to the amp "remote" input, bam, manual amp on/off switch! Next, to add some 12v fans to keep the amp cool down under in that tray!