Prius Tuning - More HP (200-300 whp)

I was talking about my '05 MINI Cooper S... it's a 1.6L s/c.

Reading is hard I guess.

 

Call me crazy, but the thought of swapping the A25A-FXS in my Gen 3 with one of those L-ion lightweight batteries as an upgrade to my plugin battery with a 100-mile range and still plugin superpowers... some dreams come to reality ya know!

 

Jack up the back end Put an electrically motivated rear axle with its own batteries and controller

Like a proper antique corvette rear axle and a 1000HP motor like this one

Panic in Detroit update | DIY Electric Car Forums

and voila

 

link please

 

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Decades ago some Australian swapped both a supercharger and then a turbocharger into their gen 0 Prius. He found that the battery charged much more frequently with more power. It ran out of battery much less frequently, so power delivery was more reliable.

He had to do all the fabrication him self, using parts intended for kei cars, 360cc japanese domestic engines. There is almost no extra room under the Prius hood, so he removed parts of the frame, not very safe. He found the super charger so loud that he could not get passengers to ride in the car. The turbo plumbing was so bad that lag was significant.

The Bonneville world speed record gen 2 Prius used an engine swap to an Otto cycle Toyota Echo engine, for a 20% HP gain, not near the 200% gain you want.

 

Once you swap the engine to a none Prius engine, it's not a Prius anymore...

 

what constitutes a prius?

 

so what should it be then?

 

Apparently, if you put an LS in a Belair, it is no longer a Belair, it's a Chevrolet Silverado.

 

Priuck

 

It's a "Frankenstein"," or a "Sleeper," something that " look's like something, it is not? .

Lot's of them out of there, and the best of the best look and sound "Stock?" The SRT 8 Prius, is not gonna fool anyone with those rear tires?

It is an "awesome," car but it's not going to "Fool," anyone. And the whole point of "Sleeper Cars," is to "look" like something they are not?

 

That was Julian Edgar (editor of Autospeed); he drives a turbocharged 1st-gen Honda Insight now with significant--tested--aerodynamic modifications. I can't find part 1 on the site (I get a broken link), but here are part 2, part 3, part 4, and part 5.

 

The thing most people don't appreciate is the software magic synchronizing engine power and rpm with the electric motors in the transaxle. This synchronized dance has to be perfect when power splitting for maximum power. So you would have to add engine torque without increasing rpm since one of Toyota's hybrid techniques is to preset engine rpm at one of several spots, allowing the electric motors to change rpm and torque to achieve more power, speed or torque at the wheels.

One might lighten the load but the car is stripped down already with little or no interior insulation or other low hanging fruit to remove. Toyota implemented a lower final gear ratio in the v wagon which "might" be useful for slightly improved acceleration.

The easiest improvement could be a lithium hv battery retrofit depending how the third party emulates the factory pack's full charge voltage. In some cases the existing pack will go to a higher voltage than normal and you get a noticeable power boost as the hybrid system attempts to burn it off. High voltage combined with an acceptable battery temperature gets you a boost, short lived with a standard battery but perhaps possible for a longer duration with a replacement.

However, the best Toyota hybrid for power is the Rav4 Prime. 300 hp using battery and engine, around 100 mpg equiv on battery alone and almost 40 mpg in standard hybrid mode. This amazingly fast hybrid is now becoming available in the Lexus NX450h and will obviously become an option on many Toyota models. So do you chase performance in an old gen3 by spending thousands in a questionable quest or do you sign up for today's technology with a fully engineered solution and warranty?

 

If they battery pack is a higher voltage or more amperage, wouldn't it take more engine power to turn
the generator for a longer time to charge it? Thus negating the extra power?

 

great point.

or use more gas to charge it because the battery capacity is larger than stock battery pack? Like the theory that lithium pack higher Ah vs nimh lower Ah yields better mpg on the gen 3?