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Need Name of these connectors off this part # 82112-47030 Wire, Engine Room, No.2

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Technical Discussion' started by Trunks9us, Mar 27, 2022.

  1. Trunks9us

    Trunks9us New Member

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    Need Name of these connectors off this part # 82112-47030 Wire, Engine Room, No.2

    If there is a part number for these connectors or another brand name that will work as well.

    This wire I am wanting to do 0 gauge but might have to settle for 4 gauge depending on these connectors if I can get them or not. Anyway I need the names of these connectors so I can buy some and then crimp my new wire I would rather not try to hack this up as this type of crimp is really difficult to undo and redo and obviously isn't suppose to.

    PIC OF WHAT I AM TALKING ABOUT IS BELOW BUT COMES OFF THE INVERTER DC CONVERTER 12V AREA

    PART NAME FOR THE CONNECTOR OR BRAND NAME OR PART # OR NAME OF THE CONNECTOR TYPE ITSELF AND I CAN SEARCH AROUND IF NECCESARY.


    BELOW IS JUST ME TALKING ABOUT WHAT I AM DOING

    For anyone who is curious to what I am doing. Initially this is all for my audio system u am working on which is about 10,000 rms I know what I am doing so I don't need the lecture about the 100a 12v connection. For those who don't know when you pull on bursts on bass it pulls from the hybrid battery and the 12v I have tested this on 3500rms already.

    I am doing a lot more wire upgrades from the beginning to the end which is honestly a lot of work but will be worth it. When I am done with everything I will make a diy thread for people after I run some trial and error tests. I am doing some heavy extensive wire upgrade for who ever reads this every wire inside the inverter the mg1 mg2 wires on booth ends will be 0 gauge this wire the white wire in the fuse box to the 12v most likely 4 gauge with a separate 0 gauge on the 12v dc converter for this wire the hv cables from the inverter to the hybrid batter posts 0 gauge then from the connections on the junction for the hybrid battery to the bus bars them selves which i already did using 4 gauge ofc 2,050 tinned copper vs the I believe it was 10-12 gauge Copper Clad Aluminum which from the pics is maybe 25 strands its super small.

    I will say this I have 1 2016 ct200h about 43k and i was getting about 32mpg - 38mpg average driving in eco mode. I went ahead and cleaned and polished the copper bus bars added super lube its a dielectric to help with corrosion its on everything now upgraded the power neg wires on both sides to 4 gauge which is technically the very end of the chain for the power to hit. I am no driving in sport mode with about 50mpg plus i have crap tires haven't done a oil change in 10k miles its on the to do list this week. I haven't done the egr maint either which all of those things will help mpg. I can drive flooring it everywhere and by the time I'm braking I'm about where i was on mpg because it is charging faster than i can use it now mostly not always. I know its impossible to get a 15mpg gain but just cleaning the bus bars they were corroded some not horribly but bad enough to need to be cleaned. I also have a lot more power now on the low end because I am able to move more current at this spot upgraded. I got this car in 2019 with 27k on it so i know what mpg I was getting before it hasn't changed much slightly lower could be winter but after the current upgrades I am gonna finish the rest.

    s-l1600 (1).jpg s-l1600 (2).jpg s-l1600 (3).jpg s-l1600.jpg
     
  2. Trunks9us

    Trunks9us New Member

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    You can delete this if you want I am just gonna use rings terminals idk why I didn't think of it before.
     
  3. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Search for crimp end terminals for the wire gauge like say 4 gauge . I also have this yuge adjustable dimple crimped like 30 inch chrome handles adjust from blank to blank gauges like 4 to 00 I think .. made by Teledyne . I’ve bought terminal ends from various Mfgr. Crimps fat terminals like for battery cables etc. I’ve had som copper rings that were of duty to take on this I’d imagine.
     
  4. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Wild stuff I’d noticed this same corrosion on my 09 battery nuts etc. wen I added new battery I sprayed the new bars n nuts w CRC battery term spray . Modded cover for easy on and off as in seconds . So I can monitor batteries connections. I did not think up grading wires would be a thing . I can say my Neg wire coming off computer block in my 13 is black colored instead of bright copper like the pos wire . These are orange maybe 8 ga? So the Neg has seen heat ?
     
  5. Trunks9us

    Trunks9us New Member

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    I thought they were 8 gauge but they are to small I think they are 12 or 10 gauge I have speaker wire of both to compare I’ll let you know in a few for sure
     
  6. Trunks9us

    Trunks9us New Member

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    8CAD5887-C7EC-4FD6-AEF0-2C92533F04C7.jpeg 5A40D1E2-C2D3-4EF8-9390-D9104AF411FD.jpeg I used steel wool on everything took me a long time to get all this done mainly because my 10mm wrench fell and I should of just pulled the 3phase I thought I was gonna save time by not but I wasted a lot more because I didn’t. Anyways here is what I did today. I use 3m 1345 non conductive embossed tin copper shielding all my wires will be shielded it takes awhile to put it all on the. I just use 3m super 33+ electrical tape. I taped up all the connectors just in case of weather or anything it’s good on things
     
  7. Trunks9us

    Trunks9us New Member

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    Upgrading all the wires is a very long process I am using donor spares from eBay just to have the connectors. But the wire upgrades do make a difference. I wish I could go to 0 gauge o. The bus bars pos and neg but 4 gauge is all I can make fit well I am fine a try the white wire at the fuse box going to the 12v but it’s the connector that’s the issue to fit it inside but I might have a idea still gotta brain storm and if it works I’ll change some other stuff eventually.

    I’m actually considering on moving my hybrid batter to the passenger seat area I am not gonna have it anyways and I’m walling off my car for my system so it would solve that issue and use less wire on hot and ground and 12v because as of right now I have to run 3 runs of 0 gauge to try back on the Hv pos neg and 12v
     
  8. Trunks9us

    Trunks9us New Member

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    If you go to this thread I made you will see some of the things I have done in my car so far Need Part # for Inverter HV Receptacle Prius or CT200H | PriusChat
     
  9. Trunks9us

    Trunks9us New Member

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    These are most of the pics of my work I’ve done so far. You will see a wire on the negative hybrid battery wire and the cut bus bar plastic i didn’t need to do that but what happened was sone how I stripped the threads on that and I was trying to fix it eventually I just bought a die and fixed it yesterday but I ended up breaking of the little silver thing I guess that’s the sensor anyways it’s just tied into the negative 4 gauge now also. Those 3 phase connectors use a adapter to use the smaller wire and they use custom cut copper terminals for the inverter side the hybrid batter side they be using cheap on some things which blows my mind how they gonna do half copper and half Aluminum and expect it to do great.

    you can see how bad my corrosion was and those screenshots are the things I need to do when I take apart the inverter to upgrade those wires as well if you do t start from the begging which is the mg1 mg2 to the inverter etc you will have something keeping you from your max potential. That being said I am really starting to get impressive gains on stuff
    38B9B9E2-9F45-4D0D-8306-370C9F921AF3.jpeg 69939B04-3B29-4B11-AF89-357B07A55E60.jpeg E9BF1016-8E0A-45EF-A32E-2B8F66CD5910.jpeg 811DA075-B036-48F2-B7FD-1FF34FC665B2.jpeg 1542AA38-A356-4997-8583-CD223CB9CCA0.jpeg 9ABC6D1E-49DD-46E4-ACCC-C3087D409EFA.jpeg D7C61992-B029-4C3A-84DB-D2C1137D3706.jpeg 8C4CC3D7-B0B7-458F-AEC9-EE7A88E63D3E.jpeg 0F592203-790E-4CC8-9A56-956CD460B594.jpeg E82451CD-AF67-4A5A-A5F8-1AE5A78B25B2.jpeg 61017A2E-A72C-4E06-A239-B6346A5A1C16.jpeg 80C6C045-4ABA-453B-AB43-C67F3CB47671.jpeg 6DAB9BDB-607C-4AA2-ACB7-C4F07980849A.png 857FFBCE-E86C-44D2-92C4-47EFFD1C8200.png 365EABBC-2E7E-4EFD-85F4-AABF8C3FFDF9.png 0F460092-7CF6-42F0-B4FF-DCBEBD6AEFE5.jpeg 21BF61A4-4535-4009-9B8A-4D7EDF47F187.jpeg EEA50EB8-633A-4EB2-8CC7-20A8D658ECB4.jpeg 46E732BC-3E8C-4F52-8DB1-C557E8710877.jpeg
     
  10. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    The most useful thing I can say to any of this is: quantify, quantify, quantify. Keep track of the lengths of the wires you've replaced, and the old wire gauge and the new wire gauge, and look up the ohms per foot of the old and new wire gauge (for example, here), so you can see exactly how much you reduced the resistance of each connection.

    Then you can choose a plausible maximum current (150 A happens to be around the right ballpark for both the 12 V DC/DC converter and for the traction battery, even though they operate at very different voltage).

    You can multiply that current by the ohm difference to see how much voltage drop you have eliminated. You can square the current and multiply that by the ohm difference, to see how much you have reduced power lost in the wires.

    After that, you can also look for some way to quantify the "impressive gains on stuff" that you're getting, and compare to what Ohm's law has told you. If there's a large disagreement, that could be a hint to look at something more closely.